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The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.


LittleRedSpirit

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Picked up a box of bits for the car.  Finally got some front seatbelt stalks that are still stiff enough to use 1 handed.  I also got a good condition rear deck trim, and a set of switches to control the hatch wiper and washer and defog.  In the box I also found spare front bar blinker lenses, genuine number plate lights, additional seatbelts, glove box, speaker trims and door handle bezels and window winders.  Also a spare hatch seal and rear wiper motor.  One random back seat speaker cover, and a bunch of other seat belt stuff.  I also found a hatch and boot latch in unmolested condition in the box.  Could only have been better if the box contained some ac bits I need or front arch liners!

After this Ill be able to put my rear wiper washer setup in the car, once I work out how the rear washer works.

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Took it for a drive early and late yesterday.  Had a bit of a hard drive up the hills, and noticed oil got to almost 120c.  Seems the OEM cooler is fine for daily driving but not 30 degree plus days where you thrash it up a mountain.  I'm looking into an oil cooler setup now.  I plan to use something thermostatically controlled but Im not sure if its elegant to use an external thermostat or buy one thats built in to the takeoff plate.  My shit is so custom no kit will be perfect so I think I should just buy the right components and make some hoses.

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Yesterday I dumped out the spent oil and I put a new filter on.  Bit of a waste of an oil and filter dumping 3000k old oil.  Just for science sake I decided to clean out the drain pan totally perfect, then I strained the removed oil over a fine paint filter, and examined the contents.  No metal just a few foreign bodies like hairs and fluff and one small lump of sealant from the sump, but nothing alarming.  I unplugged the injectors and primed the oil system first.  I noticed when I removed the oil and put it into a bottle, it was about 3.7 litres, so that's about 200ml more than stock change volume with filter.  Noting this I plan to run it a few mm below full on the dipstick to keep the oil levels ideal.  The motor will sweat a little oil from the sump seal if you dont keep it a little below my custom slightly safe full mark anyhow.

Also did an air filter wash and trimmed down my throttle cable mount so the wire aligned better.

Im still not totally happy with how the throttles close.  Its fine and drive able, but I think I might end up removing my inlet and rebuilding it on a bench to get all the mounting plates and pivots perfectly aligned, and if I need to adjust the port matching so be it.  Id also like to drill some small holes into the adaptor plate to allow some vacuum feeds that dont have to be re plumbed into the idle control when you want to sync the itbs.  Could also be used for NOS.  Just saying....  I'm kinda tempted to put the 70000k motor in and then put a 50 shot on it to see how it goes while I try and push this newer engine to 11:1 compression.

Bought another box of bits for the car from the same dude as before.  Got a spare bunch of interior bits on the way, ac switches, cluster, shifter, ac and radio surrounds, under dash stuff, ashtray, bit of a lucky dip but it does contain some of what I'm missing.

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Edited by LittleRedSpirit
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Nuts are fitted to the switches.  Epic..  Ive been over the 2azfe and tapped the spare holes for the engine mounts, and Ive also tapped the heater hose hole for an m18x1.5 fitting.

Ive gone over with some seriously tiny dremmel brushes and cut it back to aluminium where the corrosion was poor on the outside.

I have to pull the ae86 apart to do more.

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I removed the entire itb system yesterday for some adjustments.  There was a spot behind the inlet manifold flange that held water when you washed it, so I drilled some drain holes in the flange.  I also flared a couple of mount holes on things so I can correctly align and match the ports and throttle butterfly centrelines.  While it was aprt I die ground the bottom mm off of the brake booster barb that stuck into the port.  I also drilled all but the last mm of some extra vacuum points, I will have to find some 3mm nipples, drill and tap to suit, so that I can get a vacuum signal without having to muck around with much.  I currently need to add some T pieces into the idle lines, but I'm suspicious of these as they might not seal too well and might hold back the quality of the balancing I can do.  Best to leave the idle air lines as they are and take separate vacuum signals from a set of equally located ports. As I re assembled the manifold I did it very carefully to make sure I could get all the butterflies as tightly closed as possible, and it worked out great.  I haven't checked the sync yet but I have the lowest idle yet, I had to open up the controller 6 points of duty cycle at idle to get a strong idle.  Its also a challenge to get a perfect return to the zero point, mostly because of cable drag.  The ke70 throttle cable would ideally need to be a foot longer to lessen the kinking required.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the cable and throttle feeling nice.  I still need to find some screw on nipples to add as vacuum taps.  Then I can sync it all perfecto.  Im also thinking about installing hard lines for the idle air feeds.

Spent yesterday helping a mate fix the ra65 he bought off me.  Rang up saying battery is kaput.  I picked one up at sca and went over there.  Dropped it in, started the car, and tested the voltage.  Just the same 12.2 the battery had, so out it and the alternator came.  Then I called Medicine man, and I shot up to see him where he tested the alternator and found the stator was burned out.  I looked around at the options overnight, and the easiest thing was to just get the stator out of the 4sfe alternator on the parts car.  Medicine man popped it back together and I went and refitted it with a charged original battery.  It seems perfect again.  I was also able to return the battery to sca and the total repair simply cost a part I had lying around and some skilled oversight from medicine man.  Winning.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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