LittleRedSpirit

The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

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With the road tuning I logged some high tps stuff after correcting down low, and found that the car needed fuel up top too.  I looked it all over with the data points I had, and I ended up just adding 6 percent fuel everywhere from 2500 to 6500 and above 40 percent tps, its needs were pretty even across the board.  This got it quite close, if still a touch lean, so then from there I started fine tuning and logged and revised quite a few times now.  When it got down to it, it wanted higher ve numbers everywhere.  Starting with large corrections at low rpm and a bit smaller up top, but having given it the fuel it wanted, it seems to have recovered what it lost low rpm torque wise pretty much everywhere, and the torque is broader, surges towards a very strong top end for the last 2000 revs, and pulls towards the top end with more of the feel of the 20v 4age how it kinda surges.  I really think it suits how an ae86 should feel.  It finds the limiter easier.  Before, with the throttles 80mm closer to the head, it was more snappy on the first touch, maybe better for drifting or whatever where the instant delivery of peak torque in the mid revs will get it to initiate, but how it is now, it feels more planted, more linear on the pedal and more in control especially when corners come into the equation.  It also feels a more composed  engine at high rpm to the point where you want to keep it there.

 

From here its time to dyno the car and confirm the gains from moving the throttles upstream, then move on to the upstream injection problem.  Basically I just need to mount the rail.  I need to have a couple pieces machined, and then I can plumb it up and install the 8x Denso injectors I have from a Yaris (200cc).  4 in the upstream position, and 4 in the downstream position.  The hope being that adding fuel a further 240mm above the valve with the secondaries will improve the mix of the fuel as the primary direct port injector bank maxes out in the mid revs.  As I understand the the adaptronic will do it, its just a question or how well it will work.  As I understand the software, the computer will no longer be sequentially injecting fuel rather reverting to semi sequential in 2 phases to allow the number of outputs required.  When the primary injector begins to max out, it should introduce the secondary injector to get the mix right.  As I understand ti it just uses the 2 injectors to supply the fuel volume as required by the VE number in a single table, so no need to map individual injectors.  As for how well this works in the field, I dont know anyone that has done it.  I may well find it easier to use the stock injectors in the upstream position, and if it cold starts ok, why not just get all the fuel from this location? 

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

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Detailed the engine bay yesterday.  That magnesium alloy top cover is extremely hard to polish, OMG.  It takes a lot of effort.

Will do interior today.

My hatch arrived, pretty rough old thing but only 2 spots of rust in easily workable places.  Came with wiper, washer nozzle, hinges, clasp and glass.

I will strip it and do the rust repairs and prep and then its off to my friend Callum to be sprayed.

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Sub woofer installed.  I went past Bursons for some seam sealer I could use on the hatch.  While there I took a peek in Autobarn and had a look over the sale table.  I noticed they had a 10 inch kicker sub in a compact box, ex demo, just like the JVC Amplifier I bought.  It was half price but after chatting a minute the guy said take it away today for a hundred bucks.  How could I say no.  I made some brackets to mount it in front of the battery box and now I have a well balanced audio system.  Sounds great!  I really must add a bit more dynamat and maximise how it sounds.

Have now seam sealed the hatch, and I have also flatted it over three times and have also prepped the under side.  Ill smash it over with primer filler one more time then Ill send it for paint.  I have over a litre of nardo grey left, in good shape.  Tempted to have my bumpers painted better, but I kinda like how I dont have to worry about them.

I also needed to restore the rear wiper for the hatch, so I stripped, rust killed and refinished it, and for good measure I did a better job of the front wipers at the same time.  Wipers look much neater, and my rally wiper system where the washer rides on the wiper arm is tuned and aimed better.  I also bought and fitted a replacement wiper blade for the rear to match the fronts.

Thinking about doing a wheel restoration on the car next, I could imagine these wheels with white or nardo grey centres.

Who can lend me some temporary wheels?

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Edited by LittleRedSpirit

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Been reading up on the brake pedal adjustment.  I bought some genuine Toyota body and electrical manuals.  So stoked, its got everything broken down.  I felt that my brake pedal was inconsistent ever since I got the car going.  99 percent of the time it was great, but sometimes on a cold start it would seem icy and hard, like the boost hadn't helped the first touch.  I always suspected that the booster might have been odd, or that raising the pedal to deal with excessive rotor run-out had yielded a poor base position adjustment.  What was difficult to deal with was that once you put extra pressure into overcoming the hard start, the boost would kick in as it started to move and then there would a be a boosted pedal with enough force to overcome a non boosted pedal all of a sudden, so you had to kinda know what to do or it might mean you stop rather fast.

After reading the manual it was very specific for pedal height, and yes, I was about 10mm too high with where I had it, with a bit much freeplay.  I reduced travel and freeplay and it seems to be a lighter, smoother pedal that is boosted from the first touch of it.  Stoked!  Now I just need to get used to it as I got quite used to the poor pedal feel.  The booster passed all the tests the manual described, so probably was just too high a setup.

Road tuning continues, biggest difference of late was the car didn't want to idle along properly so I reset the 0 tps maps, now its got better afrs and drives properly in carparks on and off the throttle.

Hatch rebuild continues, I have now stripped and painted the hinges, and wiper.  I have detailed the window rubber, clasp and everything else that bolts to the hatch, including the rubber bits that were soiled with overspray.  I checked the new rear window over, its worse shape that whats on the car, as its got a few of those glass corrosion areas busting out on the inside.  Despite the cool jdm DOT sticker, I will have to bin it and use the scratched but not corroded glass I have.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

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Not much comment from me but Im enjoying reading the updates. 

I've finished up in lismore as of next Friday. So i've got ample free time for a road trip if keen. BMW vs Toyota! My poor BMW has done around 200km for the whole year! 

 

Edited by ke70dave
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