LittleRedSpirit

The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

Recommended Posts

Yeah I have the label from a 5 speed knob to glue on but I cant find it, so Ill have to find it or another.  The padding is about 50 bucks to sort.

I'm gonna buy a rusty bonnet off just jdm and see how I need to hack it up.  I'm even considering re-skinning it with a bulged panel, but Ill have to see.  Wondering if I can find a bigger bonnet at a wrecker and trim it down and re-skin mine with it.  Nothings off the table really if it passes inspection.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Members dont see this ad

They love those bloody H patterns on the gearknob.

"Oh so you've modified basically everything on the car yourself cool cool, all new brakes suspension, no worries sounds good and safe, WOAH WOAH WHERES THE H PATTERN STICKER! DEFECT!"

Of all the things to pick on. Oh well, easy to fix.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

lol!  Is it written that they have to be an accurate representation of the gearbox?? Is it tested?

I just grab comfortable small ones from the wrecker.


That's a shame about the bonnet, its a unique trademark of the car.

Beast's gear knob.jpg

Edited by altezzaclub

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What is the actual problem with the bonnet?

And how is it any worse the a big scoop, a carby or even a supercharger?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, ke70dave said:

They love those bloody H patterns on the gearknob.

"Oh so you've modified basically everything on the car yourself cool cool, all new brakes suspension, no worries sounds good and safe, WOAH WOAH WHERES THE H PATTERN STICKER! DEFECT!"

Of all the things to pick on. Oh well, easy to fix.

Its good to have something minor any cop can spot, so they get their fix of reaming your ass-hole without picking on anything more difficult for you to fix.  Funnily enough the previous Police made a big song and dance up about needing the mod papers in the car, so I found them, laminated them and she didn't even take the time to read them.

18 hours ago, altezzaclub said:

lol!  Is it written that they have to be an accurate representation of the gearbox?? Is it tested?

I just grab comfortable small ones from the wrecker.


That's a shame about the bonnet, its a unique trademark of the car.

I will read the code of practice and get back to you. 

Finally, someone who gets the mad max vibe of the bonnet, and after its off the road.:D

15 hours ago, Taz_Rx said:

What is the actual problem with the bonnet?

And how is it any worse the a big scoop, a carby or even a supercharger?

The problem is that, and I'm quoting the police, "If you have an accident in that thing it will shatter into a million pieces and the debris will injure bystanders."

Yes, that's the stupidest reason you could give as an explanation.  I then of course asked "How would an adr approved bonnet be any different if its made of the same materials?" and she just didn't seem to care what the actual reality of the physical world was, she just wanted a piece of paper to trust because bureaucracy.

QLD laws have pretty clear statements about what to do with your bonnet scoops.  Basically my big alloy cap would be fine if it was fitted to a steel bonnet, aside from the hole in it, which she also chipped me about.

The interaction had all the hallmarks of how you would stereo typically be spoken to by someone with no personal confidence or intelligence.  Someone who derives all their confidence from a gun and badge.  For example, she went off down some specific rabbit hole about roll cage padding, I asked a clarifying question, to which she said "I'm not a mechanic, OK." in a certain tone.  So you want me to sit through the long winded, poorly worded shit you speak, but I cant clarify because ego/lack of background knowledge/ignorance.

I've already bought some roll cage padding, black this time, not blue, and I will find the H knob and put it on.  That just leaves the bonnet.  Need to get time to see Craig, and then I need to find a wrecker who you can still explore in Brisbane, all the U pull it ones are closed now.  I think I might have to go to Tingalpa to browse a wrecker now.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"injure bystanders" I cant say i've heard that one before.

I was reading the ADR the other day about it. 

https://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/-/media/Safety/Vehicle-standards-and-modifications/Vehicle-modifications/Light-vehicle-modifications/NCOP/7sectionlhbody.pdf?la=en

----

2.7.2

Testing of Fibreglass Structural Components All fibreglass used in structural components must comply with and be tested in accordance with the requirements of British Standard 2782 Part III, methods 320E and 335A.

The test panels must reach minimum acceptance levels of 85 MPa in tension and 152 MPa in flexure. The Barcol hardness value must be greater than 25 and the fibre to weight ratio must be at least 0.29. Fibreglass panels presented for testing should be laid up under supervision in order to verify the consistency of lay up when referenced to the vehicle components being constructed. These Section LH Body and Chassis Version 2.0 - 1 January 2011 Page 10/LH73 test panels should measure approximately 600mm x 600mm and be free of gel coat. Flat (planar) test panels are required to comply with test procedures. Testing must be carried out by a NATA certified testing laboratory. Where the modifier has quality management processes accredited to ISO AS/NZS 9000, testing of the components need only be done once to prove the general design.

---

What is interesting is that they are calling for a "barcol hardness" value that is really quite high (and what you would expect with cured fibreglass). I would have thought if they didnt want the panel to "shatter into a million pieces" you would want a lower hardness value.  

I dunno how you measure "flexure" on a thin panel. 

I went to tingalpa a few weeks back. same old place. I think it is one of the last walk around ones left. But anything older than about 1999 is pretty rare. got rid of all the old stuff a few years ago. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

..and that's exactly why aviation worldwide is stuck in a 1940s timewarp with splash-lubricated push-rod Lycoming engines on light aircraft and helicopters, and why we don't have a carbon-fibre helicopter flying anywhere at all. Testing and standards become a way to limit new competition into an industry, it favours wealthy established concerns.

Sounds like road trips to Orange will be more popular in the future.  We have Great Western here and two other old-fashioned walk-around wreckers an hour or so away.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I've been looking for some likely candidates for bonnet skin, maybe from a 7x series cruiser.  I'm not sure how high it rises but I'm sure it would be larger than the ae86 bonnet and it would be flat enough overall.  Plus Toyota.  I'm open to suggestions if anyone has one.

ae86 bonnet gap is 1320 rear and 1270 front.  Its 1100 of flat panel on top and about 25mm extra to the front edge at the sides.

I'm not sure how much natural curvature the stock bonnet has left to right, because my floppy fibreglass one is pretty flat across the middle in front of the cap as the cap forces it that way under its weight.

If I put a straight edge across the guards left to right, I need 75mm of rise at engine and 88mm at TPS for safe clearance, which is the highest point of the manifold.

Using my angle gauge I calculated that if I add 9 degrees of downwards tilt to the itb adaptor then I can get the tip of the throttles 30mm lower before I get to a safe gap below throttle 4 trumpet.  So if I were to do that, I would only have a rise of 58mm at tps required to clear it safely.  I'm definitely not going to shorten the inlet, so I need to make it work.

I've always wanted to try an in between setting with my throttle plate location.  The company makes 50 and 80 mm spacers for the kit but only had stock of the 80mm when I purchased.  I was thinking I might design the new adaptor to be 85 not 35mm long and use the 100mm trumpets not the 37mm ones.  All the performance gains of this inlet is from the port length, and I would like to try a more balanced setup with the longer trumpets and slightly shorter ports before I feel I know enough about the engine.

It had such strong bottom end before but it didn't feel happy up top.  Now its definitely happy to rev and it still drives well down low.  I dont want to lose the revvy feel of it but I also wonder if gains can be made everywhere by having a better trumpet design.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so you still thinking an vented bonnet but made of steel?

Thinking out aloud i wonder how a bonnet bulge would look. not open at all. A bit similar to how they do it on the V8 falcons. where it just looks like a standard bonnet but it bulges up in the middle to give more clearance. 

or even an offset bulge where you need it just to confuse everyone. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pic dump

Got a wide assortment of spare ae86 interior stuff.  This is only half of it.

20181211_190953.thumb.jpg.9ae8a37aad6545d9b33d9a63df594ddc.jpg

Bloke called Bill came around to get parts in this ra65.  Another rare bird in great condition like the one I just sold.

20181224_124147.thumb.jpg.1e0ccb7a7f1968654483611cef5dd40b.jpg

Visited swamp garage one arvo and helped do a kouki to zenki diff conversion to get his Kouki trueno coupe running again.

20181111_143822.thumb.jpg.de785c0da5823e8310e8432ed8ad1647.jpg

If anyone's looking for something awesome to watch on YouTube, I can highly recommend Juicebox for you.  Its a kinda fast paced Video blog full of Irish AE86 and JDM car shenanigans.  Epic stuff.  I binge watched 18 episodes when I first found it.

20181115_161931.thumb.jpg.a88c8a00b704a2437e3d51cf38146a75.jpg

This is the sealant I use on everything from petrochemical fuel lines, vac fittings and water fittings and everything in between, you just buy it at trade link, its great stuff.  Beats any auto sealant product by a mile.

20190105_122749.thumb.jpg.998bfc11bdd106a2a8c99b7183ac9a1c.jpg

You can see the drains I added to let the water that collects there run away either side of the bolt.

20181219_172232.thumb.jpg.3231694e25f2feba69576edd35e1403c.jpg

A couple photos of exactly how clean the 2azfe is inside after 79000ks.  Lets hear it for oil changes.

20181216_090211.thumb.jpg.837e109427ee4391c1a43aa4dfdb8732.jpg

20181216_090216.thumb.jpg.638cbf0da9a1832e4b3ae889a3a27778.jpg

Heres the roll cage padding I need to clear the defect.  $55 at Clark rubber.

20190107_144612.thumb.jpg.d84ff4584c4e1d8ae6bf256367346447.jpg

So here's the work I did to get a vacuum feed from each port that is separate from idle air feeds.

20190105_122044.thumb.jpg.33f1087f1e706181c52a265ac9dc50a0.jpg

20190105_113626.thumb.jpg.543b57f6eb6635ca8f4c69b6e5769299.jpg

I also port matched each mani to adapter join with a brake hone to make it even smoother.  Killed the 9 dollar china brake hone but the ports look terrific.

20190105_122018.thumb.jpg.afbe5125df35a7471fac345b3a3f4ccc.jpg

20190106_103958.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I saw that other photo you put on Instagram too. looks interesting...My first thought was perhaps the sides of the "bump" should be parallel with the ridges in the bonnet? 

either way i think ocne its all painted up it will look good either way. 

Quick sketch of my thoughts.

ke70dave86bump.png.3aba87c4d08b7e45102553e8ff7733e0.png

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had considered that but I liked it better swept back at the rear.  It was an excercise in minimisation, and I think at its widest point, the cover is a bit too wide, so I liked it better swept back to minimise the size of it.

20190116_073834.jpg

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now