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The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.


LittleRedSpirit

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Ill put a little drip rail in to drain water away at some point.

RWC is booked for tomorrow morning.  Ive done the knob, padding and the bonnet now so theres no reason to leave it off the road and let the rego tick away.

I got some wheel arch trim and put rubber around the bottom of the cap, its looking pretty pro now.

Gonna treat her to a nice detailing today and then I might even fit the windscreen trim since no water has come in for months.  Bit of paint going wierd on the right rear arch lip, but thats happened before and can be polished out.

 

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Edited by LittleRedSpirit
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13 hours ago, kickn5k said:

Good to hear Matt.

You really need to up the comp now! 👍

Yes I do.  The defect made me change plans for a week or two, and now I'm about out of holidays to do the swap to the other motor.  I think I could do it in a couple of days, the main things are just parts swapping to the new engine as usual, but I also need to hack the block for starter clearance, and this is hard to do neatly, Ill probably be a bit more scientific about it and make a template to cut from this time.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been chasing more consistency from one day to the next.  I realised my fuel pressure reg was capped so it didnt even have an atmo reference, so I would have had slight variances in fuel pressure day to day.  I also rechecked the setting, I noticed while running it was only 25kpa.  I reset to the minimum 31kpa, and oh my gosh what a difference it makes.  Its like a new engine.  I think I was getting poor atomisation from the 12 hole injector nozzle.  So much more torque now, and rather than just pull really hard for the top 1500 rpm, it seems to have filled in whatever was missing below that in the midrange.  Its so much better I'm tempted to throw it on the dyno and see, or go to the drags and check the time it will do.  Took a lot of retuning, and the fuel map looks a bit different in overall shape.  Took out between 8 and 18 percent, and I've been adding some here and there as well.  I also took the time to sync the inlet and adjust idle as best as possible.  Ive got a new cable routing that makes the throttle cable return a bit better.  I also worked over the timing map and smoothed it right out, just trying to get the smoothest feeling as the tune moves around the table.

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No I meant KPA.  I need minimum 50 psi at idle.  I had 43.  I'm running about 55 now constant with no vac reference except the atmosphere.  Manual says 50 -57psi from memory.  I thought I had it right.  :D I just hadn't checked it since I set it up originally.  Don't know if I had a poor setting from the outset, if I just set it low and got my kpa conversion wrong the first time around.  Or possibly the reg doesn't work that well its just the usual cheap Tomei one that cost about 70 bucks.  Nothing special.  Ill have to keep an eye on it.  If I do decide to use the vac reference, its no big deal to setup, tuning that out is just gonna be the first couple of rows in the map.  Probably fluffing up the fuel a bit considering it will effectively drop the fuel pressure a bit at light load.

Economy seems to be good too, maybe best ever.  Half tank 230ks, thrashing it around the place trying to get logs to tune from.  Used to get about 180 from half a tank in the city and that worked out to 9.25klm per litre.  I could do 12 klm/litre on the highway.  If I make the most basic of calculations and scale up the economy in tune with the 230 ks half tank, its a factor of 1.27, so is it possible its doing 11.75ks/litre around town now just on this change?

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