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The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.


LittleRedSpirit

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Had it back wards between ground and signal.  Oddly made it run on 2 cylinders.  Fouled some plugs almost immediately, but after a bit of phone diagnostics, Medicine Man helped me get it sorted.

Running on 4. 

Had a few issues getting all the adjustments on the throttles, but its just what it takes to get some new gear.  Spanner checked to be sure there was no vacuum leaks, then I switched the spring position, and found out how all the adjusters were supposed to be orientated, noticed they were all setup backwards then fixed all that.  Hilariously had a couple of the fine adjusters wobble off and fall.  Found one on the ground, couldn't see the other.  Started to fear it had fallen into the bell housing as there's a bit of room between the block and starter motor, considering I cut the block to fit it.  Noticed it sitting on the last possible rib before falling into the housing right down behind the starter.  Needle-nose pliers were the go, as the adjuster was brass with a stainless nut and it wouldn't stick to a magnet.  Oh the lols.  It was like playing operation where instead of the buzzer you have to remove an engine and box.

Had the tps mostly right, so that was a good thing, as you said it was just polarity on the sig and ground.  Thought I was having a nightmare when it first started and ran on 2 cylinders.  Did a plug and coil swap and determined it hadn't had a plug or coil die.  It just seemed to kill the engine phase with cylinder 1 and 4 on it completely.  So then realised the only thing I messed with was TPS so that had to be it.  Justin said just unplug it, so I did and it ran on 4 right away!  So weird.

Progress!

Hopefully drive it tomorrow.  Need to bring the idle down as it hunts up high enough to hit the over run settings and starts to bounce up and down.  I've got a motion pro synchroniser so Ill be doing that tomorrow too.

 

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Today I have some time to play, so I will put some fresh plugs in it and try to tune idle again.  It seems to be very rich at idle all of a sudden.  I will sync it up, and I will solder up the tps, and of course go for a drive and see how it goes, do some logging, make some adjustments, and hopefully once its up and running it wants more fuel at higher revs and unlocks some more hp for me.

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Sounds like you are having some success. Years and Years ago when i installed that 4age of i bought off you into my ke70 beast, I had Brad around to wire it up and the bloody thing would not run right, missing and carrying on wouldnt even free rev. wouldnt do anything. At my whits end i unplgged the TPS.....ran perfect. Threw a spare TPS on i had and all was good. . 

Seems both the oem ecu and your adaptronic do strange things when given a TPS signal they dont understand. 

 

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Done a plug restore job, also fiddled the tune down a fair bit on the cells it runs from on idle.  Need to try and close the throttles as much as possible, and then try and run it with some decent afrs that wont foul the plugs while its warming up, then when up to temp I need to sync the throttle plates with the vacuum synchroniser.  My main fear is overfuelling and fouling again.  Its a bit bizarre how rich it is.  I might solder the tps wires then unplug it for warm up as it only helps with sharp transient throttle events, a static warmup at idle will not bother it.

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Started and idled to temp with tps unhooked for stability.

Tried a few different strategies, failed, restrategised and worked through it.  Finally ended up getting synchronised with about a 900 rpm idle.  Car was hella rich, wanted all the fuel pulled out almost, then went hella lean, and wanted all the fuel put back in.  Once I got it stable it was all good, and I was able to get tonnes of vacuum at idle, probably more than before so the brake booster should be more effective.

Seems lean when you jump on it, and I dare say its going to want more fuel everywhere.  I might just add 8 percent across the board and see how it goes on a first drive.  Waiting for little Anika to wake up so I can start it, and back out of the carport without waking her.  Filters are one and ready to go.  Tps plugged in, calibrated and seems fine except for the car needing tuning now.  Will hit the dyno in the near future.

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2 steps forward 1 step back.  Did the first attempt at road tunign today.  Did my best to find a nice tight adjsutment of the throttle cable, added a second return spring as the one on the itbs is very light, and made sure that the stop was hit 1000 percent of the time at zero tps, however the tps just isnt performing. Its slow to register anything at the start of the range, over about 15 percent it seems to read smoothly, but it just lags on the first touch.  So that confirms one of two things, I cranked it against the stop incorrectly  with it on backwards when doing an initially mock up of the throttle system, and realised it needed to be reversed by doing so, but I dare say I damaged it, or it was a bit shit from new being a 40 buck amazon jobbie.  Probably the former, but I think the only way to get it fixed is to now that I have proof of concept, go get a nice new genuine one from somewhere.

The positives.  More power.  Defintely more power, and from pretty low tps, it really hasnt stolen much bottom and has a much fatter mid rev pull.  Not sure on top end but it was a pretty exciting drive with the throttle not waking till about 12 percent plus and the lag, so you kinda had to plan ahead and hold on.  Lights the tyres off a stand still like never before, I reckon 14 flat might be the goal now after a tune.

It wanted a lot more fuel; right off idle, at least 15 percent for the first couple of load rows in the table, then about 10 for a row or two, then about 7 or 8 and fading to about 6 percent more at about 3/4 throttle.  I think it might want less at low tps once the tps is fixed because I was likely trying to tune out a lean window created by the shonky tps readings below 12 percent, this would also explain some of the drama I've had with calibration.  The tps would read 20 to 30 points different from one throttle release to the next, even with the return spring.  The Toyota ones variance at zero was about 8 to 10m points max with less spring tension pulling it back to zero.  So its definitely fucky.  Sounds sweeter too, so the manifold matching has helped a lot of facets.  Ve numbers went a long up in the table.  More efficient at getting air in for sure.

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Mystery and problems solved!

TPS was broken, I had damaged it and this photo shows exactly what happens when you crank a tps in the wrong direction woth some force.  The wipers bottomed out on the conductive strip hard enough to bend the fins of the wiper, and you can visially see the damage and lack of alignment.

BMW genuine TPS works amazing, perfectly sensitive from the first breath.  A 5 minute fix that took 2 hours driving in terrible traffic to achieve.  So happy.

Photo in next post.

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Kickin' a few goals here i see. Nice work. Interesting to see the dyno results. Though id be more interested in your thoughts on how it drives under "normal" use with that new setup. 

Nice photo of your daughter too! shes grown up fast. Our little fella is 5 months now. Time flies. 

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Ok, my notes on whats changed.

Doesn't seem to have lost torque anywhere, even drives as well sub 1500 rpm, which I didn't expect.

Throttle response is better at all points.  Seems more reactive to the pedal, it does more of what you feel you are doing with the right foot.

Torque is smoother, it just builds stronger and more linear than before, where it would sort of come forth in stages, now its just an ever present force.  Car feels more effortless off the line, and wants to spin in first even with the stivky tyres, where before you had to get to mid revs to get wheelspin, this seems to do it with far less effort.  Even with the RSR tyres.

As a test I put it into 5th on the way up a hill, let the speed decline to about 40klm/hr and punched it hard, it had nice strong torque, but as anyone with itbs can attest to, there's a sweet spot with the pedal, and quite often if you are too hard into it, and start to release the pedal, you feel the torque increase as you come back through the ideal range of throttle opening for those engine speeds and conditions, in my case it was picking up fine when it was smashed, but the band of torque as you back off felt much solider and like there was a wider range of tps where the torque was really good.

Those are the main observable changes.  I'm yet to put it on the highway and see how it goes with taller gearing and at higher speeds.

Also I'm extremely excited because it made 7kw extra with the filters off before. I'm yet to drive with filters off but it is definitely making more than the 112kw it used to with filters off with them on at this stage, even with maps that need refining.  I have not played with timing, just with fuel so far.

I have some longer trumpets to try on the dyno as well.    So there's probably some more power waiting there with some fettling and with removal of the filters

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