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LittleRedSpirit

The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

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Wow you are youtube famous now!

One of these years we should look at that carbon airbox again. 

 

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23 hours ago, ke70dave said:

Wow you are youtube famous now!

One of these years we should look at that carbon airbox again. 


 

Yes we should, but I dont have enough room without the big black bonnet.  To do that with the steel bonnet Id have to make a different adapter plate and pivot the inlet down another 8 degrees.

Im most excited about dyno tuning the car again, or at least running it up to see how its going.  Driving it the other day, I went tps100 to redline from very low revs, and hit the limiter once not too hard as I shifted, the car pulled hard gear to gear but I sensed the limiter came in a bit low, logs reflected this, as a bit over 6000 the afrs went funny as if on limiter.  My limiter is 6700, it seemed to come on at around 6100, so Ill have to inspect my settings and see if its correct.  Theres no engine protection that would cause an early rev limit, unless the logs just failed to capture the data and the tacho was reading very low in the dash, which is a possibility, as it falls behind a bit at top revs.  Needs more investigation at a test and tune I think.  Theres an overtemp and overboost rev limit, but unless the ecu had a momentary high fluctuation that triggered this, I cant really explain it.  Its never had an issue before.

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When you break your weldiing helmets headband and also are a farmer at heart, you logically staple it to a trucker cap.

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Edited by LittleRedSpirit

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How fast do kids grow!

For what it is worth my bmw tacho is miles out. at least 300rpm out by 4000rpm. Mine is a guide only..... (and it hasn't worked since i put the mega squirt on ignition....)

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Car handles poorly since being lowered, only in that I can feel excess toe out, and its climbing out of ruts in the road.  I think Im just going to adjust it since I cant get to the mechanic this week. 

Ani is a bout a month older now that shot was a few weeks ago.

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This is a week or two ago.

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Took a spin up to Bribie Island.  Wheel alignment seems good, albeit with wheel slightly to the left, but not annoying and near enough to centre.   After mostly around town driving, and the squirt on the highway up to Bribie, it averaged 10.25klm per litre.

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Pulled the engine today.  Ports were very clean.  Head was clean and sludge free.  Left the trans in the car, and found it much easier than pulling both, all the bellhousing bolts are easy to get to, and the starter just rests to the side.  Started rwding the new motor.  Fitted the top cover, fuel rail, heater line, and thermostat housing.  I think Im going to paint a few things while its apart and re route a couple of things.  Only broke one thing, the idle controller plug crumbled in my hand.  Its absolutely worth every cent to get an engine leveller.  So much safer and easier to remove an engine. 

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Got the new engine all sorted and rwd converted.  Its installed and running, just bled the cooling system.  Seems just like the old motor so far.  Was able to just use the ecu temp sender in the head, instead of the one in the big outflow pipe.  The plug reaches perfect and there's plenty of room, unless you want to run a heater.  Otherwise its much the same except that the heater plug in the back of the head is a bigger size, seems Toyota ran a different sized hole in there on the other motor.  It tapped perfect to an m16 on the first engine, this one needed to be m18.  Had to dash over to auto-barn Virginia and buy a cap yesterday to close it up.  Every hose clamp I undid was redone with a new Norma clamp.  Still have to fix the broken idle controller plug, its taped on.  Loctited all the engine mount to block bolts.  Used ARP flywheel bolts, pro series 200000psi rated.  Re used the spigot bearing and throw out bearings as they were just fine.  Did a better job routing and securing the fuel feed and breather lines.  Bent it over where its supposed to go and got it into the stock mounts, as I had some of the little rubber spacers saved up from a jdm ae86 that had 8mm feed line.  Changed the efi feed hose out as it needed to be longer. 

Took the rail and injectors out as a set and put them in the current motor.  Figured this would make the tune as accurate as possible.

Tweaked the front bar to lessen the gappy look created by the shitty front right chassis rail.  Pulled the rad support a bit so the headlights lined up better.

Depressingly found a 20 cent patch of rust each side coming through in the bay.  The classic spot where they always get rusty at the lower inside area of the strut towers.  I think once the other motor is built and sitting there at 11:1, I'll have to take this engine out and fix it all properly, tug the rail out, fix the rust, the front lower crossbar is a bit sad also.  Not rusty, just flogged and scabby.  Car looks 8/10 from the top, and about 4/10 from underneath.  It really needs flipping over and going over properly some day.  I think that will have to wait till after I buy a house and build a shed though.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

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OK, I have a had a couple of drives on the new motor.  Feels freer and a touch less fresh and tight than the newer engine, but not much really.  Still pretty awesome.  I have completed the oil cooler setup.  I went with a 25 row oil cooler - $88 generic that was the same as the branded ones but half the price.  Speedflow -10 lines, so 16mm roughly.  Mishimoto Thermostatic sandwich plate with 185 degree F thermostat.  Couple of m20 to dash 10 adapters in the plate with sealing washers.  Made my own speedflow style lines from a mixture of stealth and speedflow fittings.  Went with the all black Nylon Braid hose with r6 rubber lining.  Needed 2x 90 degrees at the cooler, and 2x 45 degrees off the take-off plate.  Took it for a test drive, and seems good, oil pressure takes about 1 second more to build up than before, but the cooler stays fullof oil the way it sits so its minimised.

Total cost -

Cooler $88

Takeoff plate - $199

Washers m20 - $1.5

M20 to dash 10 adapters x 2 $38

Lines (3m) and speedflow/stealth fittings x 4 - $238

Total - $564.5

Mounted it off a little bracket I found, cut down and attached to the headlight bracket.  Also used a threaded female m8 to 6 adapter post as the mount on the lower crossbar.  For how strong it is, I dont think I could have used less metal to fit it.

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Wheel alignment done, zero toe, -2.7 camber and 3.4 caster.

Oil cooler working great, sits about 95 in traffic, 105 or less when you thrash it!  Just hot enough to evaporate any condensation inside the engine.

Lowered a bit more to even out the heights.

Stopped on the next street over and met a bunch of dudes there working on JDM cars, miatas and rb30 skyline wags mostly.

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