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The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

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Interesting to see what you think of those maxis. I bit the bullet and got some re003 for my e30 last week (as they about the only decent tyre that comes in 205 55 r15). Very impressed so far, but I hear they don't last very long. Luckily it's not a daily drive (and these days I don't drive anywhere....)

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Im keen to see as well, obviously not going to have the dry grip Im used to, but I need to be able to get from maryborough to Brisbanein all weather so I really need something that wont aquaplane in the wet.  Im going from 205/50 to 195/50.  This should also help with the aquaplaning.  This is the tyre.

Guy at the tyre shop was a big fan of this tyre.  I could have gotten a similar spec federal for a lot less but according to the reviews they are not as good in wet.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

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Plenty of places for water to go on that tyre. Should be a nice compromise for what you need it for. I recently got the cheapest Nankangs I could get for my daily drive subau impreza. And its amazing how much grip "normal" tyres have these days. Especially in the wet. Admitedly the tyres I pulled off both the e30 and subaru were very old and completely buggered. So its an unfair  comparison I suppose:p


Edited by ke70dave

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Ive now been for a long highway mission to Brisbane and back for work.  The Maxxis tyre is actually very good.  The straight line grip is good, probably about as good as the non warmed up 595rsr.  It feels like it rolls really easily, it doesnt tram track, and the steering is more laid back and airy as opposed to fighting you a lot on rough roads, it just goes straight.  When turning you feel the lesser grip, a little more prone to understeer on harder steering inputs, responds better to being a bit more measured in the corners.  Havent had wet roads to drive on yet, but I will report in due time.  Wheel is easier to move in slow going, makes the quick rack lighter to handle.  Compared to the rsr tyre, these are quieter on the road too, could run the stereo about 25 percent quieter and still have adequate volume.  They are loud and chirpy when spinning, the rsr just quietly slipped.


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So I have been continuing to drive and work on this car.  Ive done a whole ot of commuting down to brisbane for work in it.  Its capable of over 600klms to a tank, which is great.  Bris to Maryborough return on 1 tank is nice. 

Ive made some great advances with the running of the car lately too.  Its always been quite fine to use, but just have always been chasing performance at the low tps openings, on and off throttle smoothness, typically in the zones where I guess the map sensor is compensating.  All this came to a head when I decided for spacial reasons (after rubbing through some uni filters on the bonnet and exploding 4 more at 170kph - photo attached) to put the shorter inlet back on, and to test the performance of it now that Im running more consistent fuel pressure.

I was worried the voltage drop I was having in the past gave me a poor idea of how that setup perfomed.  Well I discovered that the shorter inlet is indeed less powerful, and it actually really caused some problems with tuning in the map sensor areas too, as the car started surging at cruise rpm and tps and the idle went to shit and it started idling high, idle creeping, and hunting.  I tried a number of things.

I checked the plugs, and I actually found an odd one in there with a different electrode height and a higher heat range.  I suspected that might have been causing some uneven performance accross the cylinders so I chucked those plugs and put some new NGKs in at 1.05mm gap, just about 0.05 under the stock gap.  Well this made it only marginally better, and I was still at a loss.  The first touch of the throttle was becoming kinda snappy, like hesitation then over enrichment, like the transient throttle enrich was coming in late.  It was beating on the diff.  I was looking at the maps and logs and adjusting things incrementally trying to smooth it out, and not getting anywhere.

I noticed there was a big fuelling change occuring between rich and lean in the first few percent of tps opening, when the map sensor was correcting.  I noiticed that the map sensor values were switching up and down by 20kpa at low tps.  I was baffled.  I got onto Adaptronic tech suppoirt for ideas, because I didnt want to keep making adjustments to a tune that was pretty good otherwise.  They said to test the map sensor with a vacuum pump, and to try running without map prediction on, and see if the uneven fuelling clears up.  That was a good tip, because the transient enrichment seemed to be the thing coming in uuneven and giving the lean rich event.  It drove smoothly with no map prediction enabled, albeit with less power during transient events.  This was a big clue.

So what now?  Well, I revisited all the data in the map senmsor prediction tables, I checked against recent logs and was able to update the values and there were some that were 10 or 20 percent out of whack.  WHat you see in the logs is the Map value the ecu is calculating fuelling from, the final value after prediction is applied, so it kinda chwecked out that it was lean by 20percent where the map prediction table was 20kpa different to what it should have been,  That should have fixed it in theory, but it didnt.  SO wtf now?

Well I started on other theory around the map sensor.  I was considering putting an external one on, or actually finding a vacuum pump and trying to do the test on the sensor in the ecu to rule it out when I had another idea.  I thought, since this first touch has never really been a smooth event in this car it might be a problem thats beyond software and in the mechanical system.  I had the idea that I might be taking my map sensor reading from a bad location.  I had been getting the map sensor data from the idle control maifold that I had designed.  I started to wonder if everything going on here was a problem for generating a clean accurate signal.  The cylinder type manifold connects the 4 ports to the idle controller with even access to air, it also accepts the pcv via the typical one way valve off the top cover, it gets the purge valve returns input to it, it provides the vacuum reference for the fuel reg, which could also lead to a lean spot if its too slow to rise the pressure as the throttle opens, and it was also the place where the map sensor gets its signal.  I started thinking about it and I wondered if the signal quality was poor and I would be better off getting this signal from a dedicated connection to map sensor only.  I decided that since the fuel reg and map sensor are about the metering and finer running of the car, that they would have a dedicated feed of MAP signal.  I made a 4-2-1 hose setup from the calibration ports on the manifold adapter, and teed in the extra feed for the fuel reg reference.  I plugged the old map sensor hole in the idle bottle manifold. 

Problem solved.  The car now feels as smooth from the first touch as any car I've driven, even the single throttle ones, its just as driveable, can hold constant throttle just off zero without hunting or surging, its just dead smooth.  Total win.

In other news, Anika is amazing and were very lucky she is such a good kid.  Thers also this low key R31 skyline posse up here, I see about 3 or 4 different JDM look r31 here around town.

I also treated my self to a dished wheel and extra long bosskit, its great, really easy to control.









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Great project mate. I've scanned through the whole thing, over the last 2 weeks. Lots of work done. 

Can you help me with some info please, if poss. 

I have a 2az-fe, and I'm thinking about fitting it into a lexus is200. Pull the heavy 6 cyl. Iron block out, for a lightweight 4 cyl. Aluminium engine, with an extra 400cc, pretty much the same sort of thing you've done on yours. 

Any idea if the 2az-fe, will bolt onto the J160 gearbox in the is200 ? That car has a 1G-FE engine. 

I've searched Google loads, but can't find any info on gearbox bolt pattern measurements, to see if its shares dimensions.

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