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LittleRedSpirit

The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

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On 9/24/2020 at 5:12 PM, Is-2az said:

That gearbox also goes by the name AZ6. 

Any idea if the AZ number, relates to bolt pattern ? 

No, AZ6 is just the Aisin-Seiki name for the box (it is used in a bunch of other Japanese cars such as the MX5, 200SX, RX8 and even the 86/BRZ, but with different bellhousing patterns for all), has nothing to do with the Toyota AZ engines

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14 hours ago, Hiro Protagonist said:

No, AZ6 is just the Aisin-Seiki name for the box (it is used in a bunch of other Japanese cars such as the MX5, 200SX, RX8 and even the 86/BRZ, but with different bellhousing patterns for all), has nothing to do with the Toyota AZ engines

Ahh Ok, thanks for the info mate. 

If that's the case, then I'm guessing you could theoretically plonk either of those engines + the box complete, straight into an is200, and vice versa. That would be an especially good swap for the rx8, as those rotary engines don't last long, and guzzle fuel. 

I guess the only way to know for sure, if the 2az-fe would fit, is to mate it upto the box, and see. 

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I stumbled across this video, of a guy mating a 2az-fe onto a variant of the j160/az6 box. 

He made an adaptor plate.

It looks like a good guide, for anyone that's interested in diy'ing their own plate. 

 

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Yes I've been watching his series, and chatting with him.  Hes doing it his own way, which is cool.  It is a good guide for a plate, and he just put out a video about making an adapter to sr manifold as well thats quite good.  One or two things about that gearbox choice seem a bit inelegant to me, such as the starter position going into the firewall, and the slave on top where there is no clearance, however I think he is making it race only high power turbo build so he has a diffeent set of mechaincal outcomes in mind than I.

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Picked up an old neglected w58 steel case transmission at a swap meet a couple of weeks ago.  Only cost me 200 bucks but it was full of leaves and grime cause it had the shifter off.

Took it home, cleaned it up with a wire brush in preparation for a strip and clean excercise to asses its condition.  I had only bought it because it selected every gear and they felt smooth, it turned over like it was still pretty nice inside.  I found the words Dellows stamped onto each half of the cases by the steel centre plate.  It had had a conversion bellhousing from an old ford 6 cylinder on it, so it must have been sold by dellows originally.  So I came to find it was dirty inside the rear and around the shifter.  I picked out a lot of crud, like a handful of it, and then split off the rear housing.  The two rear most bearings were grimy from muck sitting against them.  It had no corrosion inside or on the shafts, the output and input shafts looked new, no end float and still with the blueing sort of finish, once cleaned up.  Compared to every box I've had before this one looked great.  So off to the gearbox shop, I ordered in the bearings, just got it back ready to use.  It owes me about 520 dollars so Im stoked to end up with a steel plate w58 for that kind of spend.  It will drop my highway rpm at 100kph from 2820 to 2580rpm with the taller 5th gear.  No other ratios vary from my current w57.  Best part is, I started looking into the speedo drive combo I need.  I know my current w57 box came from a car with a 3.58 final drive, and the 3.58 final drive cars typically use a 33-11 or 32-11 speedo drive.  The w58 I have found already has the 33-11 gears in it.  Its an older type manual speedo w58.  According to my research it might have been from an MZ11 or MZ12, an early MA61, or a late MA70.

A few cars Ive looked into:

RA65 33-11 speedo drive for 3.58:1 final drive
SX80 32-10 speedo drive for 3.9:1 final drive.
GX80 35-10 speedo drive for 4.3 final drive.
LX80 32-11 speedo drive for 3.58 final drive.
RT142 32-11 speedo drive for unknown diff ratio (borg parts not in Partsfan
MA70 early 35-10 /4.3
MA70 late 33-11/3.727
JZA80 NA 33-10 electric/4.083

JZA 70 33-10/4.1
GA70 1GFE 32-10 3.909
GA70 1GGEU 1GGTE 33-9/4.5556
GZ10 35-10/4.3
33-10/4.1
31-10/3.0
MZ11MZ12 33-11/3.7
RA63 18RGEU 33-10/4.1
GA61 32-10/3.9
35-10/4.3
33-9/4.556
34-10/4.3
TA63 TA64 TURBO 33-10/4.1
MA61 33-11 AND 31-10 BOTH SUIT 3.7
LX90 31-10/3.7
SX60 33-11/3.7
SX90 32-11/3.583 Can infer the rt142 diff ratio would be also 3.583 from this as thats what its speedo drive suits.

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Steering was getting sloppy and notchy.  Pulled the whole system apart.  Rack preload was lacking, so removed the preload adjuster, cleaned as much as possible and regreaesed and ran the grease right through the housing.  Replaced a tie rod end.  Found that the removable uni joint was worn and notchy.  Replaced with a near perfect one.  I also removed the column and changed the top bearing, as I had a ke70 one here, and it was the same bearing, and the lower bearing that I can't buy was stripped and regreasesed and put back together.  I also found the rack shaft telescopic section was loose, so I reset the length and crimped it some to hold it firmly once again.  This was allowing a lot of shaft play.  Net result is it all feels great again.  The wheel is actually more centered now and even before a wheel alignment the play in the column is gone and the dead zone at centre is removed, and it feels smooth and lubed from lock to lock.

One awesome thing, the rack is easy as piss to get out, you can get to all the bolts and it slides out easier than when its under a 4age or 4ac.  Steering uni despite the proximity to the motor and slave is all easy to undo and remove.  Theres no compromise to serviceablility to have the 2azfe engine there.

While the front wheels were off I fitted some hubcentric adapters.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

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Did some parts ordering for the car.  I have found that randomly Toyota now lists the left side internal rack shaft bush, that both my racks need.  It was unavailable for years but I was able to order 2 of them 66 each genuine.

I also have found the bizarre steering column bush bearing stopper thingo with the delrin case can be ordered : Its NSK 30BSCT01A toyota 45808-20020 but its about 200 bucks.  The uni between pinion and steering shaft is also available for about 200 bucks.

I ordered some rack boots, a tie rod end and rack ends as well from Autobarn to replace the parts I used up on my repairs last week.

Its been pissing rain everywhere here on the eastern seaboard, and my back yard is mush so the car will be sequestered until I can escape the shed without getting bogged again.

 

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Still playing steering.  Have found you can buy the rack preload stopper and spring for 35 bucks, so Ive ordered a set for me and a set for a mate that needs a rack and pinion conversion in his t18.  Stripped a rack for him and Ive drilled and tapped a grease nipple into it so its easy to grease in car.  Waiting for bits to arrive in a few weeks so we can rebuild the rack and fit it up to his car on a ke70 crossmember.

Went to a local Harvey Bay meet the other night.  Some nice cars and even nicer people up here.  Everyone just stoked to be there.  All kinds of cars from series 6 rx7, silvia with a built rb25, vk v8 308, stroked ls Holdens, Mazda MPS, Hiluxes, r34 4 door skyline, you name it.  People just love cars here and they all seem to get along.

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Had the local locksmith fix the boot lock so it opens all on the same key and I dont have to use the popper in the car to open.  Way more convienient!

Fuel pump is finally dieing, gonna change it before it stops altogether, its dropping to about 1.6kg/cm2 from 4.4kg/cm2 when hot, and the relays are getting to almost 90 degrees.  I think its more or less burned out from running with too much voltage drop inthe past.  I'm gonna just replace it with another Bosch 984 and rewire it with 2 x 30 amp circuits instead of 2 x 15 amp circuits, and it will hopefully hold the pressure now.  I have a good sense for it now, if the car starts to get extended economy and stalls when stopping at the lights I know its going away again, and after a brief while where it was good, its doing what it did before when I realised I had voltage drop.  Might even consider a different brand of pump.

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I've ordered a replacement Bosch 984 pump.  I've rewired the loom for it, and its 25 amp wiring all the way.  I reduced the fuse from 30 amp to 20 AMP so that if the wire heats up I will know and it will blow before it burns out the fuel pump.  I further shortened the wiring, each circuit is about 1.2metres now, defintely not going to experience voltage drop with that.  I also stripped a shitload more paint off under the ground strap where the fuel pumps also ground.  I drilled a hole through the boot floor directly above the pumps which also happens to be right below the fuse and relay that powers the fuel system, and applied a toyota grommet to it.  If it fucks up now I'm seriously wondering what I could do.  Ive wrapped the wires in self closing braided insulation.  I shook the old fuel pump out to see if it had contaminants in it, it did have a few bits and pices in it, a few very small bits of rubber debris from the lines, and one concerning steel chunk about 1mm accross.  Reading about the pumps, thats not good for them, although it would have just failed outright had that ruined it, not been worse over time while driving.  Just to be sure Ive got a new z200 fuel filter to replace too.  Im keen to get the pump, the car is ready to just slip it in and drive away, Ive even got the right tools, and equipment there all piled up ready to do the work under the car.

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Do not fear i still read the updates, but lacking in time to get the replies in!

Good to see you are still enjoying this beast and also still enjoying living up north. 

 

 

 

 

 

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