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LittleRedSpirit

The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

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Got some new rda 400 degree c pads yesterday. Was going to buy endless pads for a lot of money till I looked these up and they work to the same temps. $130 saved.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

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Went to fit my new brake pads today but discovered they sent ra23 pads not ra40 ones. Since I had the car apart, I washed the wheels and front suspension and rack, greased the steering rack as it was squeaking sometimes at full lock, bled the brakes and got a shockingly large lot of air out and put half a bottle of fresh fluid in. Adjusted the brake pedal height upwards and tightened up the handbrake, and bled all 4 corners plus mc and bias valve.

 

I then used Chris' throttle sync gauges to make the final adjustments on the itbs. Got them all within about half a kpa so that's great. Idling smooth. I put some proper retainers on the brake booster vacuum lines and the pcv hose it connects to. I also put some on the idle controller. Topped off the clutch fluid too.

 

All this really just looking for better feel and a firmer pedal, which I have got some improvement in now so I'm pretty happy.

Edited by LittleRedSpirit

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Nice to see the updates rolling in :) With the oil temps you want to keep it hot enough burn off the water so above 100 deg c really but

once you hit around 120 deg c it seems you start to degrade the oil. Keep in mind these would be sender/gauge temps and the oil would vary

in temp internally, ie be a lot hotter say 130 deg or more in some places. I think you also have to consider the viscosity and oil quality as well

as thicker oil and better quality may allow higher readings but 120 deg c gauge should be a good upper limit to start with. There are a lot a articles on

aircraft engines discussing oil temps, there was a graph that every 10 deg c over the specified upper limit degrades the oil life in half which was interesting...

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I would believe the half life theory as just from my own observations without knowing oil temps I felt the oil looked well used and spent after about 3000ks of what should have been ten thousand. I've now got the oil cooler in there with a gauge and it sits right about 100 to 105C so far so in theory that's ideal but Ill have to wait and see.

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Car has been going great except I was getting the shits with the paint on the roof, or well, what was left of it. I had enough yesterday so I removed the windscreen trims to paint the roof properly, but that revealed some rust. Its under the screen. There's one little hole right through. I really need to pop out the screen and fix it properly, and its no great waste as the screen needed changing anyhow. I'm going to have the rear screen taken out of the celica at the same time so I can fix that rust too, as theres a littl bubble started under the lower right corner. ʞ©$ɟing rust!

 

On the plus side I was chatting to a Toyota rep at my mates panel shop on Friday and she is hooking me up with my rod bolts and the head gasket I need to get my pistons in. Also after she saw the car she said you should get a job with Toyota and gave me two trd caps. lol.

 

I think this summer the car gets pistons, some better paint, and a proper interior with sound deadening, rust repairs, carpet, a new lift pump and a heater ready for next winter.

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Edited by LittleRedSpirit
added photos

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Both screens are out, I have very little rust really but good to take care of it before it gets worse in the Celica, and the AE86 isn't too bad either. Its worst bit is around the fuel filler and rear arch lips.

 

Most of the dark bits are just sealant left over. Bit of rust lower right hand side and a tiny bit on the left.

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Celica has been welded up. Right side was a challenge but got a good solid job in the end. left side was piece of piss only 2 x fine holes.

 

Moved onto the AE86 windcreen opening. Its pretty strong all across. Used the die grinder to knock off the paint and scaly rust, found about half a dozen holes hare and there, none too large. I will be filling in some steel strips behind and the welding through to it. I hit it with rust converter and cleaned it up with water and metho.

 

I've removed the interior from the ae86 and put it in storage, I'm going to take the time to go right through the cabin, detail it, weld up a couple of holes and fix a couple more rust spots or old molestation in the floor and then paint inside, sound deadening, carpet, and paint the interior Black before refitting it.

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Ah nice good plan.

 

Ill have to come visit you again in the beema one of these weekends. I'm halfway through the ECU wiring job at the moment. Perhaps when i get it going ill head around. You can give me some tuning tips ;)

 

Just thinking back your engine had a heap more low end grunt than my baby 6clr.

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