seabiscuit Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 That was a refreshing way to spend an hour! :) Props for the quality control you're going through to get it done right. One question: It obviously works better, but why is it that you've now changed to a KE20 cross-member, after you'd mentioned that in order to pass engineering regulations at least one original crossmember must be used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldie Posted May 30, 2012 Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 (edited) Oldie, do you mean the gear box tunnel (notchin??) the tunnel is pretty tight against the gearbox so there isn't much room to do anything unfortunately. Was thinking maybe an auto instead??????? have no doubt you will work it out.. Edited May 30, 2012 by oldie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift freak Posted May 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 Seabiscuit - after alot of persuasion from Jordain I finally decided to use a ke20 xmember. It worked out heaps easier to install everything. I also spoke with a different engineer (a friend of a friend) and he has no worries passing it with the the 20 one. I think it really just depends on who you talk to as to what is safer (heaps safer to have direct bolt in lca's than have brackets made to adapt them). Using the 20 xmember instead allows a direct bolt in of the lca's but the engine mounts are a little trickier to fabricate. It also sits the motor lower and suits the sump position very well. To be honest it looks alot more standard now than it did with the ke10 xmember that's for sure :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift freak Posted May 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2012 Cheers for props too seabiscuit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordain Posted June 3, 2012 Report Share Posted June 3, 2012 It also depends how you mounted the motor. All I did for mounts on my crossmember was just chop the 4k mounts off and drill 2 holes and bolt a BA falcon engine mount in and it all bolted upto the engine. It virtually bolts in, my motors probably about 50mm backwards into the firewall compared to lukes I think ( i can only just get the coilpack out ) Makes the gearshift a pain, but with the LEEN kit it's not a problem, just have to do a little notch to the centre floor brace :) Glad you went with a 20 crossmember Luke! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift freak Posted June 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2012 Made some more progress today, pretty stoked with how things fell together. My mate Muzz came round and we got the steering rack in and tie rods pretty well sorted. I used the intermediate rod from the Altezza along with the column. I had to shorten the intermediate rod to 70mm extending from the main body. So we cut the splined end off and tapped a thread in it, then screwed it out using a bolt and series of nuts that the shaft slid up the middle of and BAM!!!! its was out. We then cut the remaining shaft down to a 100mm in length and inserted it into main part and welded. We then shortened the tie rod ends by cutting them down and tapping a thread into the tubed end. It probably need ends about 30-40mm shorter than KE70 but I can sort that out a bit later on. We managed to use the KE70 D/Side mounting bracket to ensure the pressed end doesn't come loose so pretty happy that fits. We followed Rob KE25 thread instructions (http://www.toymods.o...ell-my-car.html) So hopefully it all pans out well and suits the front geometry :) I've also decided to use Sam Q's velocity stacks in probably 70mm length. I would prefer to run 110mm stacks but they will fowl on the firewall. Also in the next few days I should have a tail shaft. After some thought and discussion with a few people I be going brand new 3inch steel tube and heavy duty uni's. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift freak Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 So peeps heres some more photos of the rack setup. Hopefully these photos shed some light on the install. I am probably going to shorten the rack by about 30-40mm as full lock scrubs the rear of the inner guards. This will also help with the 3 full turns lock to lock. I'm hoping it will come down to about 2.5 full turns :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift freak Posted June 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 I've also made a fair dent in the wiring harness thanks to my mate Muzz :) The following is the plug arrangement between the ECU and body harness. We set the car up so that the motor can be removed by unplugging the motor harness from the ECU harness and out she comes. This will make maintenance a million times easier in the future. The red arrows show the ECU plugs, the light blue show the body harness plugs and the fluro green shows the starter solenoid wire. This photo is how the wiring is basically layed out throughout the front of the car. This is the fuse block re-mounted where the original fuse block was located. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordain Posted June 6, 2012 Report Share Posted June 6, 2012 Just get an 86 Quaife rack... Got a TRD one sitting on the shelf :) No need to shorten it... you will remember to not turn to much haha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift freak Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Jordain, Shortening the rack is quite simple in the end. I only need to shorten the actual rack not the housing. It is a matter of removing the rack piece that the rack ends screw into and machining the desired amount off and re-tapping the thread. It will allow the missus or anyone else to drive it without scrubbing :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 It will allow the missus or anyone else to drive it without scrubbing :) I'll have a go if that's an offer ;) haha This is looking like a seriously good piece of kit! What are you looking to do on the bodywork side of things? Just a respray in white or something a bit different? - Jono Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift freak Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Jono C - I'm not 100% sure about colour and body work. I've tried to make everything fit without the need to flare guards etc. I wanted to keep it white with gold chasers (was this combo when I bought her) but my missus is super keen to go all out with a total colour change respray. I will be getting the car sandblasted inside and out to ensure all the rust is found and repaired along with stitch welding the entire car for some extra rigidity. I will more than likely go a nice light metallic green like the new Mazda 2's or Hyundai i20's but for now I'm not sure. That is the last thing I'm worrying about as I still have a mountain of things to get sorted before paint is a factor. Not really sure if that was an open invite for free test drives, maybe a substantial cash deposit will secure a drive LOL. In regards to 'This is looking like a seriously good piece of kit!' I have had a few older cars in my time and when I decided to build this one i told myself nothing less than brand new or perfection first time round. This will hopefully keep the long term costs down as everything will be brand new and it will just be turn key car with minimal maintenance. Hopefully some more pics in the next few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Yeah the thought of just getting in and driving it time and time again without major issue's would be great.. Especially in an old car. Either way your dedication sounds pretty insane to this, Look forward to seeing how it evolves! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drift freak Posted June 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 So I got my velocity stacks yesterday in the mail from Sam-Q (toymods or Sam-q engineering). I am totally stoked with the fitment, perfect blend on the internal joins between stack and throttle body. Also the mounting brackets come press fitted to the stack for easy install. I decided to go with 70mm long stacks as it suited the configuration as seen in the photos. If I went any longer they would have fouled on the firewall and made more work for me. So things are moving along nicely with the ECU harness and body harness nearly sorted its onto making the dash panel so I can mount my LCD display and 02 sensor display. More pics soon :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 Sexy :wub: This is gonna be so cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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