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drift freak

Ke11 Beams

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It's out of the altezza front cut I bought. Thought it would be something different, hardest part of using it was wiring it in but my mate has that sorted. Comes with adjustable timed wipers which is a bonus :) pretty straight forward swap to just need to make a mount that attaches to the pedal box for extra support and she is done.

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I mounted my Vacuum distribution block a couple of days ago. It has the MAP sensor hose, Fuel pressure reg plumbed to it along with a line to each cylinder intake on the manifold.

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I have bought a fuel tank sealing kit as the fuel tank had started to get some rust on the inside due to sitting around unused for so long. Fairly straight forward kit with 3 parts. Clean, rust treat and seal. Should be done by the end of the week and back in with a cleaned out pump filter by the end of the weekend.

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I have also started to put the boot floor back. I got tjis from Jordain a little while ago and finally got around to marking it out and putting it in. I bought an air flange tool to lip either piece (photos to come) so it sits nice and neat. It also allows me to punch plug weld holes for extra strength. Should have this back in by the time the fuel tank is finished.

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So things are moving along. Just need to sort these brake and clutch fitting out as that is doing my head in............ARGH!!!!!

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hi luke have you pressed in the dowells that hold the throttles in place at all ,you need to take them off your 20v inlet manifold ,or they wont be in the right place and will move around

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I have pressed a couple in but not all of them. I will be getting back around to it soon (i was in a bit of a rush to get it started). It will be fine for now though.

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So I spent the last couple of afternoons sorting the boot floor and fuel tank situation out. I must admit the fuel tank repair kit worked extremely well and was super easy to work with. In total it took about 3hrs but spread over two days. Firstly was the cleaning phase, I removed the fuel pump and taped up the inlet and pump opening then proceeded to use the tank clean as per directions. Cleaned it up nicely with minimal fuss. I let the tank dry overnight and the next day in the sun before using the rust converter. The rust converter was a little more labour intensive as you have to roll the tank every 4-5 min to keep the inside surfaces coated but it also cleaned up easily with minimal fuss. I then put the nozzle of a hot air gun in the filler of the tank and partially covered the pump opening to dry the tank (says to do this in the instructions) while also rolling the tank to get the last of the water to dry up. Finally the sealer, this was a bit strange as when I poured it into the tank I rolled it around a few times then drained the excess out. The excess wound up being over 3/4 the original amount. This worried me a little as I didn't think it had fully sealed the tank but after leaving it overnight and in the sun yesterday it has worked a treat.

 

Now to the boot floor, as per the previous post I had marked and cut the floor to size. I used the flange tool on both the floor piece and the car floor (probably could have gotten away with only one edge but oh well). I didn't get any photos here as I was too keen to get it in that I forgot. but here is a photo of it welded into place with only minor welding left.

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I will be leaving it as is until I get the body sandblasted as I want it to be super neat and at the moment there is to much crap affecting the integrity of the welds to continue but I'm stoked its is now.

 

So its onto re-making the gearbox crossmember as I tried to finish the exhaust the other day and it fouls on the xmember. I need to make a notched section for the exhaust to fit under. At the moment if I took it under the xmember it would be in the 100mm of ground clearance.

 

More photos to come....

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Well I spent a few hours in the shed this arvo and made some good progress with the gearbox xmember. I have made the new one with a notch for the exhaust to pass under. It allows me to stay at the curent ride height with at least 100mm of clearance for the exhaust (this is the lowest part of the car) hopefully this will keep the RTA and cops happy.

When making the new xmember I cut 45 degree sections out to allow for the angle changes. When doing this I had to cut 22.5degree sections out to allow the edges to meet equally to make it neat and easy to weld. This is shown in the following photo.

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If you only cut a 45 degree piece from one side the following photo shows you how the joins wind up. On the old xmemeber you can see on the left side the first weld doesn't line up, this is where one side will have a longer edge compared to the other and they wont meet flush.

As you can see in this photo I am just trying to replicate the old one with the new notch out. I am also going to relocate the xmember to behind the gearbox mount with the mounting plate facing forward, this will help me with fitting the catalytic converter closer to the motor for better heating of the intrenal element.

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Well the gearbox xmember is back in finished for now. Pretty stoked with how it finished up, I used a heavy wall thickness piece of tube due to cutting and rewelding it compared to the original one. The original one was 2mm wall thickness compared to the 3mm new one. Way stronger and only a little heavier.

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It also allows the catalytic converter to be mounted with more clearance once I realign the exhaust to clear the xmember. Much happier though.

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I also made another trip to Rocket Industries to get my brake and clutch lines. So these will go in maybe this weekend. I should be able to drive it around the yard by next week. FINGERS CROSSED!!!!

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Why not just buy a thick walled length of large diameter steel tube and use a section of that to provide your scallop?

 

would have saved a butload of work and provided more strength.

 

But, good work still, nothing worse than having your exhaust try and rip itself off (breaking welds etc etc) every time there is a bump in the road.

 

That little trip to Rocket would have set you back a bit!

 

If you can wait on your parts a couple weeks, order from summitracing.com jeggs.com

 

Your braided line and fittings will be like 1/5th the cost and if you keep the order under $1000 you wont pay tax. Shipping is a little pricey, but it still comes in well under the cost of buying the bits in aus.

 

 

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Hmmm jeggs.com or summitracing.com you say. Damn I've already bought everything I need. Probably a lesson for everyone else thinking of a similar system. Yes it would have made it cheaper but I needed to be able to swap bits and pieces as the first order I made I ordered a lot of stuff I didnt need. Rocket swapped it free of charge (plus freight) for other fittings I needed. This time I needed to speak with someone with some experience so a little extra was worth it. That last trip wasn't too bad it wasn't as much as I had anticipated. The fuel system on the other hand was crazy.

 

With the thick wall tube, I had contemplated that avenue after Jordain suggested it but wanted to be able to remove the exhaust easily, this way I just unbolt from the back of the cat and undo a few rubber mounts and it will off..... Easy (or at least I think it will be). Plus it wasn't too much rooting around, it took about 2hrs to remake the xmember, not too bad I suppose. :)

Edited by drift freak

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I don't have the time to go looking for the pictures of some of my old stuff, but found this on google to sort of explain what I mean

 

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/miker//trans_cross_member05a.jpg

 

aside from the fact that its part of the chassis by the looks of the picture, a semi circle of thick walled tube, with some small angle braces back down to your boxed section would have given you an upward arc that would have given you the exhast clearance and removed a heap of ppossible fatigue points (all the welds)

 

Defnitely hit up Summit or Jeggs in the future! Most hotrod/classic/old car guys buy our performance gear from them. Its so much cheaper.

 

Maybe don't look right now though, when you see the price difference (sometimes half...!) between Rip-off-rocket and them, it might make you cry.

 

Also, if you are looking for fittings etc in Aus, try earls directly, or Sydney performance wharehouse, lots of people go to rocket because they are the biggest, but they are actually the most expensive place in the country for most things.

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Ah I see what you mean by using part of the tube section now :) Yeah that would work but not sure if it would be any stronger in my application. I haven't used individual pieces to make the xmemeber but notched 3 sides out for each angle change. It should be fine considering its 3mm thick tube with really good weld penetration. It also cannot fatigue on the downward facing welds as this pushes the brace against the mounting bolts.

 

The half tube is a great idea for that application where you have a boxed section to notch but I think with a seperate xmemeber it could have gone either way.

 

I looked at the jegs.com site and yeah they have some good gear at very reasonable prices..... Oh well. I know now :) Also do you know of a good place that makes DOT approved flexible lines like the one that runs from the body to the diff (approx 10inch, -3AN) here in Australia. Jegs.com qouted about $115 delivered just not sure if I can find one cheaper in OZ???

 

Thanks for the info and input too :thumbsup:

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Give Earls a yell and see what they say.

 

otherwise, if you arent fussy on how it looks, call an industrial hose supplier like Pirtek. They should be able to knock something up cheap as chips.

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I looked at the jegs.com site and yeah they have some good gear at very reasonable prices..... Oh well. I know now :) Also do you know of a good place that makes DOT approved flexible lines like the one that runs from the body to the diff (approx 10inch, -3AN) here in Australia. Jegs.com qouted about $115 delivered just not sure if I can find one cheaper in OZ???

 

HEL make custom ADR approved ss braided lines. I think I paid $130 for a pair of front brake lines so I can't imagine a 10inch line would cost much.

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Cheers guys, I spoke with Race Brakes Sydney today and they are gunna make one up for about $60 +delivery. Due to there being all sorts of different fitting sizes (even though its the standard 3/8"-24) I need to send them the two ends I already have so they can match thread depths perfectly. Not too bad i reckon considering jegs.com asked $120 delivered. They are also DOT approved which makes engineering hassle free :)

HEL make custom ADR approved ss braided lines. I think I paid $130 for a pair of front brake lines so I can't imagine a 10inch line would cost much.

 

Rian have you got a contact number for these guys??? Probably worth ringina few places to get multiple opinions:)

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where in Aus are you?

 

Central coast clutch and brake made all my lines for the torana, if you arent in the middle of nowhere, they could probably give you a second quote.

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