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Ke11 Beams

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So I have been mucking around with my GoPro this last week and got some more footage of the rolla in the back yard. I thought I'd have a go at making a little compilation.... Check it out!!!!

 

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Cheers 67Rolla-Ken :) Yeah I love the sounds of the little beast, I can't wait to be able to give a real good rev and hear it at full noise. I reckon it should sound pretty sweet!!!

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So things have slowed down considerably with tasks around the house, christmas/new year and a new job all taking up most of my time. I have however made some progress with the rear shock absorber mounting setup and steering rack.

So I have a friend who runs his owns cnc machine shop and spoke with the other day about getting some brackets made to fit the new shocks to the diff. So I drew them up on a A4 sheet and took them out to him, he drew them up on his CAD program and viola!!

post-10705-0-36335300-1358848340.jpg post-10705-0-38180200-1358848342.jpg

 

I also spoke to another bloke I know whos dad owns the local pedders shop and he got me in a set of KE20 rear shocks to try. I will probably be sending them back as they are a little long and are 3/4 compressed at ride height. But here they are with the machined brackets attached.

 

post-10705-0-54035000-1358848344_thumb.jpgpost-10705-0-65675300-1358848346_thumb.jpg

 

This is how it looks with the shock mounted and bracket seated against the diff tube.

 

post-10705-0-32949200-1358848333_thumb.jpgpost-10705-0-89487400-1358848335.jpgpost-10705-0-49139200-1358848338_thumb.jpg

 

The issue when setting the mounting bracket angle in relation to the diff tube is there needs to be a right angle from the shock absorber through the diff axle, similar to this drawing

 

post-10705-0-21545500-1358848898_thumb.png

 

So if the shock leans toward the front of the car the mounting bracket needs to be rotated clockwise to maintain the 90deg angle. This creates a force directly up the shock absorber during suspension travel.

 

While I was at my mates machine shop I droppped the steering rack off to him to have him shorten it by 30mm. This is to reduce the amount of steering angle I have because the tyres scrub on the inner footwell during full lock. It will still have heaps of lock for street duties. I had him re-machine the M14x1.5 thread in the end and also the notches for a spanner when installing the rack ends.

 

post-10705-0-50208500-1358848348.jpgpost-10705-0-78125800-1358848350.jpg

 

All in all I'm happy with progress but as time is scarce things will be taking their time to be done now :(

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i am not sure if i missed it, but what tilton master cylinders did you use?..74 or 75 series, i now the 75's are shorter

I want to order a pedal box for my ke10 this week. props on the build, its amazing!

cheers

darren

Edited by untubbed_20

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Hey Darren,

Thanks for the feedback mate. I've used 75 series m/cyls because like you said they are shorter. For the front I originally used a 1" bore but found it too big and didn't provide enough pedal travel and feel. So I have settled on a 5/8" front and 7/8" rear, both unboosted. The clutch m/cyl is also 5/8". Hope this helps mate, it's a tigh squeeze but worth it in the long run as it frees up heaps of room in the engine bay :)

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yeh i have 4agte turbo, with hilux diff/supra box , I'm going to just use the R31 rear disc conversion and have Ke70

front brakes with slotted rotors, that will do for drags, so I'm going 7/8 for front 7/8 for back and 5/8 for clutch..

just wanted to see what physical size was the go, but figured 75's would be the best space wise.

 

I wish my ke10 would end up as well rounded as yours, it won't though, l it will be all power and not much else..lol

cheers

darren

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Darren, I rang RaceBrakes in Sydney for some advice on the m/cyl sizes. They were really good and open with their advice. He told me you really want to go bigger on the rear as the will bias the front to start with. Last thing you want is the rears locking on the strip. He told me that if you go a little larger on the rear your bias adjustment isnt as hectic, which would give you a smoother pedal feel. Everyone I have spoken with recommends getting the sizes right so the bias bar is central once installed. Pretty much how my setup is at the moment. Good luck, if you want any specific photos just let me know.

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Mm okay, i'll be competly honest i'm a bit out of my depth with random brake conversions on this car, I'm more at home with

making power from motors.

so any ideas are good. I wanted a pedal box as the convertered stock pedals never feel quite right and ke10's are

weird little things to drive at the best of times..funny, but weird compared to any other rolla, especially have no track.

 

I was looking at this thread for idea initially and it has the same brake setup i have.

 

http://www.rollaclub...7-ke10-ca18det/

 

I'm ready to buy right now, so now you have me um and arring...lol, i'm going to run a remote vh booster aswell, I'm sick

of no assisted brakes on the car

cheers

darren

Edited by untubbed_20

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Darren give RaceBrakes a call you won't regret it. Honestly if you get the m/cylinders right you won't need to boost it. I don't run a booster and my fiancé reckons the brakes feel fine with minimal pedal pressure needed, I also have a mate with a willwood under dash pedal setup - unboosted - and his feels great all day at the track with no leg pump. Running a remote booster just adds to the pain in the arse lines you need to make (remember the KISS rule - Keep It Simple Stupid (no offence) that way it's easier to fix in the long run :) where about are you located, might be worth a meetup if your not too far away (in on the south coast NSW) so you can see for yourself.

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So I got the old girl out in the street the other day. I need to sort the tune out as it leans out quite badly above 2500rpm but it's driveable and actually feels pretty good :)

 

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So I had Todd from Signature SwayBars come round the other day to measure up a custom 22mm front swaybar. After some discussion about routing we settled on a fairly simple design as seen in the pic below.

post-10705-0-84868200-1360978752_thumb.jpg

There was a few issues with this route which included the oil filter location and oil pressure sender location, both of which made it difficult to route the sway bar. You can see this in the photo below.

post-10705-0-79019700-1360981443_thumb.jpg

So I had to look at moving both. The oil pressure sender was easy, I just put a 90deg elbow into the block to move the sender into a vertical position.

post-10705-0-19322500-1360978912_thumb.jpg

The oil filter was also an easy solution, I purchased an Aeroflow remote oil filter relocation kit and installed. This solved two problems which were the sway bar route and also not being able to change the oil filter without removing the castor rod mount.The following photos are of it installed, I haven't finalized the filter location yet so it looks a bit funny but should look a bit better when I finish it.

post-10705-0-71561100-1360978834_thumb.jpg post-10705-0-73469000-1360978988_thumb.jpg post-10705-0-52580700-1360979075_thumb.jpg post-10705-0-75822800-1360979136_thumb.jpg post-10705-0-04933600-1360979212_thumb.jpg post-10705-0-66439200-1360979303_thumb.jpg post-10705-0-81649200-1360979368_thumb.jpg

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I haven't seen black fittings in a car before, only red and blue, the set up looks very professional/neat.

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