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drift freak

Ke11 Beams

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Thought Id just put some of the other photos up to show how well the stripper and stripping disc work together.

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After using the paint stripper and washing it down clean I also used rust converter on all the visible surface rust just to be safe. After that I also used the stripping disc to sand off what rust was left. Then just coated everything in etch primer :)

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Yeah mate it really hits home how close it is to being drivable again when I look at it like this. I'm hoping to have it sand blasted in the next few weeks then ill just finish off the small amount of welding and start and prep it for paint.

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So its been a little while since I've updated on here due to being slack over the last few weeks being flat out at work and preferring to spend my spare time with the family rather than on the car. I have however made small progress in the finishing of the engine cross member and diff (fully welded all the mounts and brackets on over the last few days).

So I welded the diff mounts on after having them tacked in place in the car.

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The new spare wheel well fully welded in that was supplied by Davros el Davros (cheers mate)

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Engine cross member fully welded and steering rack mounts gusseted.

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Finished welding the coilover kit onto my struts also

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Now I'm at the point of putting it back together so I can get it to the sand blasters, hopefully with a little more spare time over the next few weeks this won't be a problem to get sorted :)

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good job on the welding work.

 

I've been in the process of building a jig for a specific diff conversion for about 6 years now... I just havent had the motivation to get the diff in the car tacked up and tested to finalise the jig (pre IRS commodore to LJ torana)

 

Seeing yours almost there gives me a pang of motivation that I should finally pull my finger out of my ass!

 

Did you set a pinion angle?

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Good to hear orangelj!! Nice to know I'm motivating people who have motivated me in the past :) yeah I set the pinion angle myself. I bought an angle finder off eBay, measured the angle at the back of the block (removed starter motor and measured that mounting face then dialed the diff in with -2deg so that when the diff is under power and wrapping the leaf spring up the is no difference in the angle. I can draw a pic up later if that explanation isn't clear haha.

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So I had a mate come around on Friday to do a major service on his '08 WRX, he also owns a KE20 3SGE Beams powered race car and I thought while he was doing that I should pick his brain about how he changed the timing belt on his car. I've done a few timing belts in my time but its always nice to have someone on hand that's done this motor before to fall back on if things get too confusing or something just isn't right.

So I started by stripping the rocker cover and top cam belt cover off.

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I then rattle gunned the crank bolt from the harmonic balancer and used a puller to remove the balancer.(The photo shows the ratchet but this didn't work so the rattle gun came out).

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Once I had the balancer and lower cover off I rotated the crank until the small mark on the crank lined up with the arrow on the block, remember this is crucial to allow for easy re-alignment of the belt and pulleys (see last photo), I then removed the idler bearing you can see in this pic. This just gives you a little extra slack in the belt which makes all the difference in the next step.

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The next step is to compress the belt tensioner enough to be able to remove the timing belt from what I think is the oil pump (don't quote me on this)

Number 1 in the photo is the gap that needs compressing and number two is the direction in which the tensioner travels to compress the gap (I used a large pry bar to compress the tensioner while my mate removed the belt from the lower left sprocket)

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Once the belt is removed from the lower left sprocket you can remove the tensioner from the motor allowing more freedom to remove the belt.

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I didn't get any photos of the next step but you need to compress the tensioner pin back into the body of the tensioner to be able to reinstall the unit. You can use a vice to compress it or a hydraulic press but remember to take it slow or you can damage the seal inside the tensioner. Once the tensioner pin is compressed use a small allen key to push through the hole in the body and pin to hold the pin until re-assembly (sorry for no photos here).

From here I re-installed the timing belt ensuring the marks on the belt lined up with the marks on the camshaft pulleys and crank (I purchased a genuine timing belt from Toyota @ around the $85 mark due the engine being totally stock, if I had work done to it I would have gone after market but thought the genuine one will do fine for now).

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From here you re-install the idler bearing, align the belt with the timing marks on the camshafts and crank, then reinstall the tensioner. Once your sure the belt is on correct and the routing of the belt is good then pull the allen key out to place tension on the belt.

From here it is a matter of re-installing everything in the reverse order to removal and make sure you tighten all major bolts to the required torque settings and use lock tight on the harmonic balancer bolt.

 

I also got my car rolling gain and ready for the trip to the sandblasters in the next few weeks. Its actually quite inspiring to see it rolling again with the suspension in so hopefully I'll be able to make some headway into the remaining items over the next few weeks.(fingers crossed)

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So just a quick update peeps. I finally got my s#%t organised and trailered the rolla out to the sandblasters last week. I had re-assembled the driveline so I can manoeuvre and transport the car a little easier and then used their forklift to put it back on the rotisserie.

 

It has been a huge goal of mine to have the car blasted inside and out to ensure I was aware of any rusty areas before proceeding any further and to my surprise there was only two small areas that will need my attention.

I am super stoked with the end result and this should allow me to finish the welding off with minimal fuss and effort due to the etch primer being able to be washed off with thinners before I weld anything now which should result in a really neat finish.

 

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So things have been slow lately as I couldn't be bothered working on the car in this summer heat. I have however been able to make some progress on the cooler days in the way of seam welding the body as I'm not going to run a cage and wanted the whole car to feel a bit more stiffer especially with the amount of power I will be making :)

 

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Thanks Dominicaneddy, Its been a while between updates as not a lot has been happening. I have sourced some S13 LCA's to remove the need to modify the stub axle angle on the AE86 struts and also completed some more seam welding on the rear of the car. Internally the seam welding is finished but I just need to finish the underside of the boot floor then fill in all the un-necessary holes in the floor pan before putting the stone guard down.

 

Some more photos of the progress.

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Just a quick update.

 

Progress is happening, I have nearly finished the body work and will have it back on its wheels very soon.

 

I have also acquired a new front strut/LCA/brake combo which allows me to get back to 4*114.3 stud pattern which I've been wanting for a while, this allows me a wider choice of rims in the suitable sizes.

 

The new strut combo is out of my mates KE20 race car and consists of AE86 BC BR Series coilover mated to custom KE20 LCA's, wilwood rotors and wildwood 4 piston calipers :)

 

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More updates soon.

Edited by drift freak
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