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Rians Ke70


rian

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Yeah I bought like a $10 2 arm puller off eBay. I cracked the rim off one pulley using screwdrivers and snapped off the bit with the timing mark. That was great. It'd be way easier out of the car though.

 

The timing pulley actually came off with 2 screwdrivers and I didn't break anything. So lucky!

 

I also ordered new front main seal, rear main seal, cam seals, cam cover seals, spark plug cover seal, dizzy o-ring, timing belt kit and intake and exhaust gaskets. No more leaks hopefully! The engine was so gross and oil when I got it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I pulled the old engine while I waited for parts to get the new engine ready:

 

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Then the new seals arrived:

 

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I started pulling out the old seals:

 

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Cam seals out:

 

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Front main seal out. I may have put a tiny scratch in the crank :osama: but I hit it with some wet 2000 grit and it came up pretty smooth, hopefully it doesn't chew the new seal:

 

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New cam seals in:

 

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New crank seal in:

 

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Will do the cam cover seals, dizzy o-ring, dipstick o-ring, rear main and carrier gasket another day. I've also got front, rear and speedo drive gearbox seals to replace too. Hopefully this will fix all the leaks.

Edited by rian
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  • 2 weeks later...

EDIT: All the photos are sideways for some reason. CBF changing it.

 

 

Got some time to replace the rain main seal as well. The seal came with the carrier gasket so I replaced that as well with a bit of Ultra Black in there for good measure.

 

Carrier out:

 

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Cleaned up the mounting surface:

 

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New seal and gasket in:

 

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New pump:

 

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While I was there I sealed up the oil dipstick because it looked to be leaking.

 

 

Then I had a dig at replacing the gearbox seals. Input seal was super easy, output seal was pretty shit.

 

Pulled the input thingy off:

 

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Pulled the old seal out and cleaned up the seat:

 

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New seal in with a bit of grease on the inner lip:

 

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The old gasket was fine so I reinstalled it with some Ultra Black:

 

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Now for the output seal. What a pain in the butt.

 

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I removed the output shroud thingy and it looked fairly straight forward to remove the seal:

 

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I initially though "oh yeah I'll just pry it out".

Didn't work.

Then I tried to drill it, drive in some screws and pull it out with pliers.

Didn't work.

Then I thought "ʞ©$ɟ it, I'll just pull the extension housing off"

Pulled the extension housing off, old cruddy oil everywhere:

 

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Then I tried to pry it out again now that I could actually get some leverage.

Didn't work.

 

I ended up needing to use my spigot bearing puller to get it out, and even then it was pretty tight:

 

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Cleaned up the seat and chucked the new seal in:

 

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Then onto the speedo pinion seal.

The pinion gear housing was fairly tight and took a bit of force to get out, I didn't replace the O-ring because I forgot to get one and it was dark by this time. Got the housing out:

 

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Pulled the pinion gear out and found the seal inside, wondered "how the ʞ©$ɟ am I going to get this out?":

 

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But lucky I had an M12 bolt that threaded into the seal tightly, then I secured the speedo pinion housing in the vice and used a smaller bolt and a hammer to tap it out from the other side. Worked a treat:

 

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Pressed the new seal in with a deep socket and chucked the pinion gear housing back in the extension housing, then I wrestled the extension housing back onto the gearbox (ʞ©$ɟing shifter forks were so fiddly, especially when your workbench is a milk crate) and sealed it up with more Ultra Black. If I get anymore gearbox leaks i'm going to be pissed.

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Edited by rian
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I hope so. It used to leak pretty bad, there's a massive oil patch on the underside of my car from where the gearbox output seal leaked onto the driveshaft and just sprayed oil everywhere. Plus my gearbox always needed to be topped up.

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Ever figure out what happened to old engine?

 

Nah I just gave up on it. Pretty sure it was just low on compression, because timing(ignition and cam), spark and fuel all seemed to be in order. It would actually start if I poured some oil down the spark plug holes to bump up the compression, but would only run for a few seconds then die.

If the new engine goes in and starts up then I can rule out any electrical or fuel problems as I will be using the same wiring loom/injectors/ecu etc.

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  • 1 month later...

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