rian Posted December 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 (edited) I can't weld it on I don't think, it's some sort of alloy? It came with a little steel seat that you weld onto the strut and then the coilover sleeve just sits on top of that. I'm not sure what I'd pay for a 4AGE from the wreckers, I didn't ask. But I think it would be easiest to buy one from there so that I could get the loom, ecu, and everything to go with it. Either that or I could just buy a complete FWD corolla with a 4AGE in it, I see those for so cheap sometimes! ooo0 that 20v seems pretty cheap. I might look into what's involved in doing the 20v conversion. Edited December 6, 2011 by rianwest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grand Master of Awesome Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 20v conversion is easy if you listen to me haha. Cut hole in fire wall to fit dizzy and make a box around where hole is so you don't get ʞ©$ɟloads of engine heat in there, or mount engine forward so dizzy doesn't hit on firewall. Extend water lines from rear of engine, don't bother with RWD stuff. IF you want to do it on the cheap, plus its a track only car so who cares. 99% of member will tell you that's a bad idea though. haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rian Posted December 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 It's a track car but I still need to be able to register it otherwise I'll have no way of getting it to the track :no2: So there goes cutting the firewall lol. Also what do people think I should do with the coilovers struts: cut, shorten and re-weld the top of the strut back on as to retain the original threaded section of the tube(remember that the T3 sleeve kit does not actually weld to the strut and therefore provides no reinforcement to the strut after it has been cut/welded)? OR Shorten the strut tube and cut a new thread into the top of the strut?(this is what I would rather do, and I would cut the course Toyota thread into it so I could use the gland nuts supplied with whatever shock I use, but I'm not sure where to get a like ~48mm female thread cut? Any ideas?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch-12 Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 It's a track car but I still need to be able to register it otherwise I'll have no way of getting it to the track :no2: So there goes cutting the firewall lol. Also what do people think I should do with the coilovers struts: cut, shorten and re-weld the top of the strut back on as to retain the original threaded section of the tube(remember that the T3 sleeve kit does not actually weld to the strut and therefore provides no reinforcement to the strut after it has been cut/welded)? OR Shorten the strut tube and cut a new thread into the top of the strut?(this is what I would rather do, and I would cut the course Toyota thread into it so I could use the gland nuts supplied with whatever shock I use, but I'm not sure where to get a like ~48mm female thread cut? Any ideas?) you cut and thread that stuff with a lathe go to an engineering shop and explain what you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ella Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 I can't weld it on I don't think, it's some sort of alloy? It came with a little steel seat that you weld onto the strut and then the coilover sleeve just sits on top of that. this is how mine are done man and they came out good and safe although mine have locators drilled into the struts too lol. even so with the weight of the car pushing down on said threaded tube itll be all good. maybe you ground too much off as it should be a tight interference fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rian Posted December 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 (edited) this is how mine are done man and they came out good and safe although mine have locators drilled into the struts too lol. even so with the weight of the car pushing down on said threaded tube itll be all good. maybe you ground too much off as it should be a tight interference fit. I though it was meant to be a tight fit as well but it really isn't, it's at least 1mm too big. What do you mean by 'locators'? Oh by the way I have those springs and helper springs here, I'll bring them up with me on the weekend. I've got 200mm 7.5kg/mm springs and 200mm 8kg/mm springs, plus helper springs, random upper spring seats and some old D2 camber plates. I'll bring it all and you can take your pick :) Edited December 6, 2011 by rianwest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19914afc Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 If you go 20v just look at peckys one, isn't ideal moving the engine forward but is a very good idea and keeps the engine stock and reliable nothing else to brake or modify, just like when we go to track in our cars and every other "more modified car" is fixing shit, haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grand Master of Awesome Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Mines only ~2 inches further forwards, i haven't ever had any issues with it. I had t3 coilovers once, they don't actually weld on they have a tab to hold the sleeve in place similar to what Ella is saying. That's why most people opt for the Otomoto sleeve kit since it's actually a weld on. You should have just bought BC's like i said! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19914afc Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Ye, the way yours is Jacob is good, keeps things simple. Might be selling my whole front end setup, haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonboy Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 (edited) lol. Do you think I should give it a try? It doesn't seem hard, it just seems like it would take a long time. I recall someone on here made fibreglass panels for their track car and the turned out pretty good. It does seem pretty easy hey Abbott. I think you should, just don't rush any stage of it & you should do fine. Yeah, it can be time-consuming, but worth it in the end. :yes: I do highly recommend wearing gloves, protective clothing etc as exposure to the resin (in particular the hardener/catalyst) can cause your body to become sensitized to it. This means that any contact with it in the future can cause itchiness, skin blotches, raised blisters etc, I get this with epoxy nowadays so I gotta be ultra-careful. :( Edited December 9, 2011 by carbonboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rian Posted December 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 (edited) Wowzers! I'll definitely be wearing protective clothing then. I will have to give that a try later on once I've finished the engine swap. I've also been looking into wheels. These look so bawss, they're the same as Spencers wheels. I want them: They are so cheap and fairly light, I wonder about the quality though... (For peeps who've never seen them before they're TE37V rip-offs called Rota Grid-Vs) Edited December 9, 2011 by rianwest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer[RL] Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 Wow those rotas sit nice on a 70... Just check with stock, last time I checked they were running low.. I live 5 minutes away from the the guys shop which i must say has lots of goodies that can make your wallet light very fast. :laff: don't forget you will need some new wheels nuts to suit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 Nah, you want my Superlites. :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rian Posted December 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 Wow those rotas sit nice on a 70... Just check with stock, last time I checked they were running low.. I live 5 minutes away from the the guys shop which i must say has lots of goodies that can make your wallet light very fast. :laff: don't forget you will need some new wheels nuts to suit. Unfortunately the wheels have to wait until the engine is in and engineered, but I think when I'm ready to get wheels I will probably get the Rota Grids, providing they still make them when the conversion is finished lol. Do they use shank nuts instead of the tapered ones? Does the shop do other type of wheels, second hand maybe? BTW your car looks seriously epic with white wheels! Nah, you want my Superlites. :P Maybe if I had the money, superlites are supercool. Hey dude you should come down with Luke next Sunday when he comes to get those springs/suss out my POS car. I hope the cruise goes well tomorrow buddy. In other news I sussed out a new clutch for the T50, I'll probably get a heavy duty exedy clutch. I also discovered that Supercheap Auto can order in HEL braided brake/clutch lines, so I'll be getting a braided clutch line as well... soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted December 10, 2011 Report Share Posted December 10, 2011 Id love to come down but I will prob only get one day away from the ball and chain and that will be used swapping more stuff off Cop Bait. Every bolt I unscrew is torture. Poor car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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