4k-t Posted May 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 I have put the rev limiter together, and made a diagram of how it will be wired into the car. I need to find a case for it. Infomation I used can be found here. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/17454-home-made-rev-limiter-for-carby-car/ However I used a Signal switch from jaycar because I could get it cheaper then a tacho with a shift light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KE70+AE92 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Ive also used that jaycar kit as a revlimiter on my ke70 with the v6, it used to chuck massive flames of limiter, as it was set as a spark cut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 How much did that switch set you back? Have you got a link? Was going to do the ignition cut tacho trick on mine but i don't want a huge wog spec tacho to do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4k-t Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Ive also used that jaycar kit as a revlimiter on my ke70 with the v6, it used to chuck massive flames of limiter, as it was set as a spark cut what side of the coil did you have the cut spliced into? How much did that switch set you back? Have you got a link? Was going to do the ignition cut tacho trick on mine but i don't want a huge wog spec tacho to do it The kit cost me $37.95 from the reynella branch in SA but are the same price on thier website. CAT. NO. KC5378 Here is a link: http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5378&keywords=kc5378&form=KEYWORD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KE70+AE92 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 On the v6 cause its efi, i had it on the 12v power on the dfi coilpacks, on a 4k with a standard coil u would have it on the negitive side going to earth so when the relay activates it earths the coil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4k-t Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 (edited) On the v6 cause its efi, i had it on the 12v power on the dfi coilpacks, on a 4k with a standard coil u would have it on the negitive side going to earth so when the relay activates it earths the coil That's the plan, as in the above diagram. I know that this wiring works. Edited May 6, 2012 by 4k-t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4k-t Posted May 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 (edited) I bought a FPR tonight so I should see it early next week. I bought it off of http://www.turbogemini.com/ Cost me $133.50 inc postage. Due to the condition of the EFI fuel tank I'm going to use the carby tank. The plan is to have an in-tank fuel pump on a modified carry pick up. This would feed the reg via the stock feed line. I'll will use the canister vent line as the return as it is way bigger then the stock return line. I'll then use the return line as my vent line for the canister. I'll probably play with voltages to the pump depending on the fuel pressure. The most I'll need 20 psi of fuel pressure. That's due to the limitations of the turbo. Not very efficient past 14-15psi. I was toying with the idea of a surge tank. But I don't really have to coin for it. Has any one got one cheap. Setup maybe? Also I need to get my Ae86 hubs machined so that my RX7 disks will fit over them. does any one know of any where in Adelaide where I could get 6-10mm machined of the the lip? The diameter of the hub need to be reduced to allow the disc the slide over. Sorry for the blurry & the messy! Peace Edited May 3, 2012 by 4k-t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4k-t Posted May 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 I got the fitting for the oil feed and water feed. all up the 3 brass fitting cost $22 The adapter and oil feed barb. water feed barb. I also had a look at putting the oil return into the front timing cover. This would give me a better path for my oil return. and make it easier to make heat shields up for the alternator. I also found a non-A/c Crank pully so I'll be using that. I also got the exhaust inlet gasket for the turbo today along with black paint for the inter cooler and front bezel. I swapped the coil over springs over from the original springs (unknown spring rate) with the RX7 coil over springs (unknown spring rate). On the ground the the RX7 spring felt softer, abit more give. but once on the shocker and in the car I found the overall result to mimic the original springs. The only markings I have on the AE86 springs is "K10" Ill still swap the other spring over and leave the final test for the road test. Now all I need to do is to work out how to adjust damper and such. If at all possible. That is all I did today, it is getting there. Slowly. Peace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 Ae86 hubs bolt to the outside of the disk though..? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4k-t Posted May 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 (edited) Ae86 hubs bolt to the outside of the disk though..? In the setup I have the RX7 disc slides over the AE86 hub (floating Disc). This is because the RX7 disc is deeper then the AE86 disc and for it to line up with the caliper the disc mounts to the front of the hub. The wheel & wheel nuts hold the disc up against the hub. This is a common setup. ie falcon, commo, RX7 lol so on... They have been re-drilled to suit. Only issue is that the diameter of the hub is larger than the inside diameter of the Disc. blurry but you get the point. Edited May 4, 2012 by 4k-t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jono.C Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 Yeah i see what you mean, Struck me as odd at first until i figured out your setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4k-t Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Did some painting today. I painted the front bezzel and radiator, also the intercooler. They are all now black. Also mounted the engine fan thermo switch ans relay. I ran the power of the + of the coil on the in side of the ballast resistor. I did this so that I a 12v+ source switch with the ignition. That way the thermo fan wont run after the car is turned off. I ran the wire to the ballast resistor throw the inside of the guard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 I wrote that rev limiter article, still interested as to how long a relay would last. Carter black fuel pumps put out 12-14psi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4k-t Posted May 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 I wrote that rev limiter article, still interested as to how long a relay would last. Carter black fuel pumps put out 12-14psi And you did a top job. If your asking how long will the rely will last, I ask you how long do you spend on the limiter? ha ha I decided on a cheap VL external pump. Quick and easy. also more than enough to get the job done. I did also get some stuff done on the car over the last few days. I cut the old battery tray mount out. It got in the way of the turbo outlet so it had to go. Also made a hole for the cooler piping to the inter cooler. I wanted to know what the oil pressure was doing so I bought a oil pressure gauge. I mounted it in the center console box that has no real purpose. The plan is to have a boost gauge next to it. For the Boost gauge I'm going to use a fuel pressure gauge that reads in PSI. with a scale of 0-15 PSI. a few reasons. Firstly I don't plan on running the k motor at 30 PSI which seems to be the std for Boost gauge scale. A fuel Gauge does not say "boost of turbo", the one in the post to my door, reads "psi". Plus it is cheaper! However It does not read in vacuum. Yet to be finished. Once I have my boost gauge in ill clean it up. Few pic of the turbo mounting, this one is through the inter cooler hole The front all back together. I found a bed for the limiter. It will be mounted under the dash some where because it is not water tight. I ended up changing my plans to mount the battery where I had it. I wasn't real happy with the height clearance. Too worried that it will weld it self to my bonnet haha. So the plan is to make up a new battery mount and put it down on the side of the chassis rail on the divers side. Like this: Was going to say about the battery relocation that altezzaclub did http://www.rollaclub...e-drivers-side/ But i guess i'm a little too late :| Lovin the work your putting into it. Never too late ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4k-t Posted May 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2012 So I rang regency today to confirm the ride height of the KE70. I got given the measurement of 345mm front and rear (eyebrow height). So from there I went out to my KE70 which is 100% factory. I measure the ride height to find that both front and back are 345mm (eyebrow height). I was abit confused so I called back to check. The guy on the other end check a few things but said that thats the figure they get from Canberra so stiff. I know springs can sag over time. Lets face it they have been in the car for about 30 years. But it still looks poo. tooooooooo high. I took a pic of the front eyebrow height to show "lowest legal" What I want. thats at 265mm ha ha only 80mm difference. What heights are you guys and girls running, what are you getting away with? I honestly think this "Lowest ride height" Is a load. Its still able to compete with the 4WD lift kit crew and win "highest car" category. Pfft! the Government has no style! Peace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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