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'grumpy' The Jdm Rt104 Corona


InSaNiTy

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Thanks for the pics people, so I've been so lazy with updates. :P

 

Old school race cars used to have taped lights so if they crashed on the track the glass didn't shatter everywhere and blow other cars tyres.

 

I'm happy everyone loves Grumpy, as you keen see from the early pics it has come a long way. :)

 

130 likes on Facebook and even a mention on Speedhunters! http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/08/the-wtac-sideshow/

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:: Sigh ::

 

Allright, having ridden in the damm thing I had to look up the build!

 

It looks better in the photos than in the flesh! They must have photoshopped the paint to look much better! Personally, I love the airdam patches!

 

Anyway, you can always use it as a towtruck.... :P

Edited by altezzaclub
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Thanks for the comments guys, you have motivated me to actually keep this build thread going! Spent a few hours today organising photos. Now to just remember which order they go in.

 

Get a build thread happening on the wagon Garagedefend! Would be sick to see one with flares and watanabes! :)

 

If you're on Facebook and have a minute to spare... every vote counts, the winner is only 2 votes ahead lol, thanks:

https://www.facebook.com/justcar/130076853675010?sk=app_455835864428304&app_data=108

Edited by InSaNiTy
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:: Sigh ::

 

Allright, having ridden in the damm thing I had to look up the build!

 

It looks better in the photos than in the flesh! They must have photoshopped the paint to look much better! Personally, I love the airdam patches!

 

Anyway, you can always use it as a towtruck.... :P

 

... And this is what he means by towtruck haha. Once again the humble Corona saves the day!

post-10167-0-62160400-1346238480_thumb.jpg

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Okay Altezzaclub, you can tell the kids the story! :P

 

Okay longboy, you've been more active in my build thread than me so I had better answer those couple of questions...

 

I'm currently waiting to grab the 18R-G conversion photos off another computer as that's the next step in the build.

 

Engine setup: bought the engine as a 'fully rebuilt' 18R-G from Stanthorpe in QLD for $2000, after looking at rebuild costs, thinking this was an okay deal. After messing around getting a custom accelerator cable, switching sumps from the old 18R-C, cutting the gearbox tunnel to make the W50 fit, tightening every bolt on it as most of them were strangely loose, we had done the 'bolt in' 18R-G conversion into Grumpy.

 

After firing it up we quickly worked out that it was only running on 2-3 cylinders. After trying everything we could without opening the engine, we took the head off to find it in what most would consider beyond repair. The head had odd valves, the water channel thingies were completely blocked up with corrosion- meaning no water was circulating through the head. We dropped it to the local engine reconditioning place and after there inspection they suggested that I start looking for another 18R-G head. So that I did and I scored 3 18R-G heads for $80ea off an awesome RA40 restorer in southern Sydney.

 

After making contact with the reconditioning shop again it turned out that the alloy welder there had a love for the 18R-G engine because one of his mates races old Celicas or something. He basically took over the job, having to weld the timing case up, water jackets up and resurfacing everything 2 or 3 times to get it right. The head got a complete rebuild- cleaned, crack tested, hardened tested, new valve seats cut, new valves, tappets and cams reset. They even added stage 2 valve springs and stuck to there orignal quote of $600! I was feeling good about saving this head as it was a 88210 head (the earliest and rarest 18R-G head with the lumpiest cams and most power from factory).

 

So we bought our $170 VRS kit and after hours of work by Adrian with me standing by holding the torch and reading torque settings from the green bible, the head was backk on and she was running on all four! Our luck soon same to an end though, as we noticed the oil seeping out the cracked timing case at the front- which happens to be exactly where the oil squirters for the chains are. Then it started to piss out and into the fan and blowing everywhere. This was a disaster. We were devo. Gave up for a month and then bought another VRS kit and a tube of bluemaxx silicon and Adrian pulled the head completely off again, after cleaning the surfaces, another head gasket was installed. But this time we used that entire damn tube of silcon plus the head gasket. Put it all back together the night before my pink slip inspection and to our disbelief didn't drop any oil for a couple of months! Finally! Happy face! :)

 

After driving it about 15 000km it started seeping out the timing case again but it was managable- just made a big mess from a little oil. The real problem now was that after a fair bit of thrashing and motorkhana events, it appears that the rings had let go or something because oil started filling the engine bay and each time we degreased it we noticed it wasn't from the timing case. After getting it degreased again and run while on a hoist it was noted that we had pressure in the sump forcing oil out the dipstick! So after getting a spring and wire around the engine mount to hold the dipstick in, we could drive it again! Oil was still coming out so we ran some dodgy garden hose we found in the shed up to the breather under the carbies on the side and from the breather on the cam cover into an empty orange juice container. It seemed oil was pissing out the hoses. But now it was in an orange juice container and not all over the bay! I just kept dailying it and monitoring the dodgy catch can and pouring it back into the engine lol. I might even add I went though an RTA pit inspection with this garden hose and re-juice orange juice catch can held in place with bailing twine and they didn't even mention it! This is how we roll in the bush! LOL!

 

So atm I am running Nulon 40-70 extra thick oil for worn engines and it sems to be blowing about about 20% of what it used to with regular thin oil. So long as I keep it below 5000rpm it barely spits any out!

 

I also scored a genuine 18R-G with the 253 head that suits rebuild for $250 + $250 shipping costs to get it here. Currently have a quote for $750 for custom 11:1 comp pistons shipped here from the states and $1500 in machine work for the short motor. I want to get a lightened flywheel too: 4.4KG instead of the stock 11KG. Then I'll stick my rebuilt head on and away we go! Anyway that's the latest on the engine longboy, anything else I can help with let me know. :)

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fully rebuilt...I'm never going to believe that one again. How are you finding it with the 18r-c front sump and pickup? I seem to get the oil light on during hard downhill braking which is disturbing. Also an issue with tight right handers. Do you think you'll baffle the sump for better reliability on the track?

 

RTA inspections are always a gamble on who looks at your car, I had this cool old bloke who just said pop the hood and then promptly wrote down the engine number and left (this was with the old rc), the girl next to me in her late model yaris was getting reamed by this lady who seemed very uptight (by the book).

 

How do you find it performs on the 40/70? Does it affect cold/hot peformance noticeably? I may have to switch to slow down this oil burn.

 

You need some driving vids! I want to hear that grumpy rg.

 

Lastly, photo of gramps rear suspension :P

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