Ae92, Supercharged Khanacross Car.

[snot35]

I'm pretty sure the AE92 models weren't homologated with a supercharger. I remember there being an import Levin in Adelaide that had a supercharger and it had to be taken off to run in proper rallies.

 

If you can jag it get proper rally tyres. They make all the difference. Even though the snow tyres would be a bit better, a tyre with decently edged blocks and the stiffer side walls that rally tyres have, make all the difference. When I got my first rally car I had proper tyres on the front and snow/mud on the back. Even on a FWD car, upgrading the backs to proper rally tyres made boat loads of difference. You'll go faster and they'll take ages to wear out. Plus you can play around with pressures more with them having the stronger carcass.

 

If you get the hang of left foot braking then you'll have grip when you want it, and slides when you want it too! :)

Edited June 1, 2012 by snot35

[snot35]

Ooops, just read that might be a problem, sorry! :)

[Boosted]

Cheers for the reply, think I should be able to fit rally tyres on the rear now that I have the spacers, it's just a budget thing at the moment.

I've grooved the rear tyres now (decent roadies) so hoping that makes a difference at the next event which will probably be more mud than anything else.

Next is the alignment bars, then think more about where to fit the knuckle duster roof vents. Was also going to add Evo style rear window vents, mostly just for giggles.

[glenpos]

G'day mate, awesome car, can you tell what website i go on to find khanacross events like this? i live in vic and i see a few people on rc doing it, looks like fun but i never see or hear anything about it haha, cheers glen

[glenpos]

G'day mate, awesome car, can you tell me how i can find out about events like this, i'd like to have a go but i never see anything about it, iv'e seen a few people on rc doing it, looks like fun, cheers glen

[glenpos]

oops haha, i looked up events in vic, and one is 3 hours away and one is 6 hours away :( lol

[Boosted]

I've only dealt with CAMS in WA as we really don't have any other options, but a quick call to the state office might reveal something a bit closer.

 

http://www.cams.com.au/States/Victoria.aspx

 

Or just hunt around for your local car clubs, such as http://www.bendigocarclub.com.au/home I see they also host them out in Ballarat (different club ?).

Bound to be something close to you.

 

To be fair though, Dowerin is ~2-2.5hrs from Perth, Beverley is ~1.5hrs, Boddington is ~1.5hrs away, Bunbury also about ~1.5hrs with the new freeway, so none of my venues are all that close either. The entry fee becomes a fairly small part of the cost for an event, when you're paying ~$100 to hire a trailer, almost the same in fuel for the tow vehicle and because I have too much money (or not enough brain cells) I'll do an oil change every event, so there's another $70 of synthetic oil each time as well and $10 for a filter. Probably chew less than $20 worth of fuel in the actual car, but then the rally tyres are $250ea brand new, though realistically they should last for a couple of years and if you're using a more common tyre size you can get second handies for ~$50 a tyre.

Still, in the scheme of things, it's pretty cheap motorsport and certainly a lot more fun than a motorkhana.

[alf6]

Hi,

 

You thread has a great load of helpful information - I run an AE92 in Khanacrosses in NSW. I am struggling to get information on longer wheel studs. I am currently running rally tyres on the standard steelies, but want to put alloy wheels on. The nornal studs on the car are just right, but with an alloy wheel the stud is a few mm short of protruding out of the wheel nut. I'm hesitant to use the alloys when they won't bolt right through the standard nut.

 

Can you give me some details (sizes etc) to solve the problem.? I see you have longer studs and spacers as well.

 

Many thanks, Alf.

[jimi91]

Gippsland car club has a great calender on there website :) http://www.gippslandcarclub.com.au/ Has most events on, yeah bendigo has there events, Ballarat does have there own car club and have events on there website :) http://blcc.net.au/events.html

 

My car club (WDCC) have events on all the time but due to weather down my way most of them have been cancelled :/ http://wdcc.com.au/ The other club from my way that does stuff is GMSC they do combined stuff with our club. http://gmsc.com.au/

 

 

There are a heap more places out there just got to find them and go have fun :D

 

 

See ya

 

Jimi

[snot35]

Toyota's seem to use the M12x1.5mm pitch studs. If you want longer ones you should be able to raid something like a Landcruiser or Hilux at a wreckers.

[Subaru_kid]

You can use Land Cruiser ones, theyre a bit longer,

 

 

 

 

But a set of ARP extended wheel studs are a bit longer and IMO are ideal.

 

 

 

Edited August 1, 2012 by Subaru_kid

[Boosted]

Haven't checked up on this recently, so sorry for the late reply.

Below is some information I found on wheel studs when I was searching for longer ones.

 

 

Toyota Land Cruiser studs are about 3/8" of an inch longer (pn#90942-02052).

 

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-conversions/52052-longer-wheel-stud-solutions-definitive-guide.html

 

Solutions

• Stock studs on most older Toyos are 90942-02047and approximately 35mm long
  
• Simplest solution is the generic late model toyota wheel stud, part number 90942-02049 and is found on many Camrys, Corollas, Cressidas etc etc, the list goes on. This is a reasonable option for early models like A2x Celicas etc, this has around 26mm of thread.
  
• Next longest in the range is the 90942-02052 which is a longer stud found on Hiaces, and allows for approximately 31mm of thread to poke through the hub.
  
• Longer again is the 90942-02053 which I'm not sure of the origin, but apparently lets 41mm poke through the back of the hub.
  
• Alternately, given that Hiaces don't always find themselves in wreckers that often as they are commonly repaired and keep on going, we find ourselves with the Mitsubishi Econovan, which i believe shares its studs with many Mitsus. The Mitsubishi runs the same TPI as the Toyotas at 12x1.5 and has a very similar knurl, of 14.3mm and is generally accepted as being able to be pressed into the Toyota hubs easily (and ive confirmed this). The Econovan studs are 1mm longer than the Hiace studs and have approximately 32mm of thread showing.
  
• If you want to go new the official stud from Nice products is the NS340, which is a standard length, 40mm overall, 27mm thread.
  
• Longer than that from Nice products is the NS3400 which is 73mm overall, and presumably 60mm thread. But this is over double the price of the NS340 at trade.
  
• ARP do a stud with 100mm of thread, but it ranks in at the most expensive at US$55+shipping for a set of 5 from Summit racing. Good though if you want to run lots of slipons.
  

 

 

As for ARP, there are a few possible choices

 

Lexus IS 300 (100-7715) Knurl - 14.17mm, Length - 66mm, Knurl Length 5.84mm

EVO VIII (100-7717) Knurl - 14.35mm, Length - 76.2mm, Knurl Length 6.85mm, Nose Length 8.9mm

Celica GTS (100-7717) Knurl - 14.35mm, Length - 59.5mm, Knurl Length 8.25mm, Nose Length 9.22mm

 

Seems as if the 90942-02053 studs are from a Landcruiser.

 

 

std stud 9094202047 =35mm long 90942 02049=40mm 9094202052=45 9094202053=55 but you have to remember that the shank is the extra lenght not the thread its is still only approx 25 mm long

 

Toyota's a little weird as they seem to have a slightly different knurl diameter to most of the ones you buy off the net. I looked into local supply, but was going to be something stupid like $12/stud and the other toyota models listed above were just a shade short for what I wanted (though in retrospect, probably would have been fine).

I ended up getting them off ebay, from a seller in the UK. They said the Knurl diameter was the same as the Toyota, but when they got here, they wouldn't quite fit. Ended up drilling the holes out with I think a 9/16" drill (barely touched the hole) and then they were still damn tight to press in, but were OK.

 

These are the ones I got http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-wheel-studs-extended-20mm-Mr2-Corolla-x20-/290525321086?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43a4a8977e from a seller called pcs-uk.

Cheap enough, so I was happy.

If you want to put longer wheel studs in the front hubs though, it means pressing apart the bearings and replacing them as well, bit of a shit, but not many other options there I'm afraid.

[Boosted]

Alignment hasn't been right for a little while. Got it done at the shop, but I hadn't got the steering wheel centered to the rack, so needed to sort that out anyway, and since I upgraded the shocks, it got worse.

Problem with an unregistered car and no car trailer, means it's just a PITA to get a wheel alignment done. Sure I could get a permit, but raises too many insurance issues for my liking.

Car's still pretty simple too, so only thing they can adjust is toe as I don't have adjustable tops or camber pins, so camber and castor are what they are.

So, off to the laser cutters and cut out some brackets for a string wheel alignment jig !

 

 

 

 

 

Not many pics on the net of how to do this (that I could find) so based it on the one's I've seen up close and used in practice.

Made some meaurement errors when I drew up the CAD versions, think the suspension hadn't settled, so needed to modify those, pretty close now.

So centered the rack by measurement, centered the steering wheel on the splines (as close as I could get it) and then adjusted the toe with the steering wheel level. Had toe in one side and lots of toe out the other, all sorted to 1mm toe out per side, for 2mm total (rear is set at 0 toe) which seems to be the numbers the rally guys use where they're chasing a bit of nervousness in the car which is what I want for the twisty low speed stuff I play with.

Tarmac autokhana next week, so taking the car out for a run, then off to europe for a little holiday and week after I get back, another khanacross. Haven't been out for the last couple of months and all of a sudden it gets hectic.

Edited July 28, 2013 by Boosted

[snot35]

Nice, I've been meaning to make a setup like that for a while. I know what you mean about things getting hectic, so tape measure will do for a while longer yet! Enjoy the holiday and events!

[Rob 5000]

we run the same alignment specs on our 92 track car. Works well and makes it drivable on the throttle.