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Blue Thing: The Daily / Motorkhana Hack (Now Efi)


carbonboy

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come a long way dude, great effort!

 

Cheers mate, hopefully you find it as amusing as I do that this is going in the front of Blue Thing this time. :laff:

 

Power figures...honestly, if it makes around the same as a healthy, standard EFI bigport I'll be happy. From what I have seen people achieving in the past, around 70kw/95hp (+/- 10%) at the wheels seems realistic, having things running healthily is the main objective. I don't see it making more than that, the internals are all standard & the compression ratio of 9.4:1 would only have increased by whatever 0.9mm height decrease (head/block skim, thinner H/G) would gain. Having said that, I'm never sure whether to trust dyno-sheets or not, I prefer to look at them as a means of checking all is good i.e air/fuel ratios, ignition timing. Maybe if I had a 500kw+ Supra I could enjoy the bragging rights, I have a little 1.6L FWD Corolla. :lol:

 

The next obvious upgrade are the camshafts, eventually. If this engine runs & runs well, it'll make almost twice the power of a 2A-C, gonna take a bit of getting used to! Again. :blush:

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Cheers mate, hopefully you find it as amusing as I do that this is going in the front of Blue Thing this time. :laff:

 

This made me laugh because I know what you mean. I have a 5 speed t50 in my car! Meaning = its in the trunk for cleaning in hopes that it will be bolted in one day. I remember the post of your car with the engine in the back. :laff: :laff: :laff:

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Being able to laugh at it is all part of owning a slow car! :D

 

The distributor looked like it needed a bit of a clean up, using this guide from ToyMods, I stripped down the distributor: http://www.toymods.o...or-rebuild.html . Got it to this stage.

 

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Everything was shagged, a trip to local bearing supplier & a mere $18.35 later. The smaller o-ring came in the VRS kit, but is easy enough to source, the dimensions are 30mm ID, 36mm OD & 3mm thick. The oil seal dimensions are 10mm ID, 20mm OD & 5mm thick. The bearing dimensions are 10mm ID, 30mm OD & 9mm thick. The larger o-ring dimensions are 80mm ID, 86mm OD & 3mm thick. Just for reference, a 2A-C/4A-C distributor has a 12mm ID oil seal, so not interchangeable. :(

 

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All back together, hopefully solving the common problem of 4A-GE distributors leaking oil everywhere. :)

 

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Have yet to completely rebuild a starter/alternator, but it doesn't seem so hard. Give a go I say! :y:

 

Mostly just degreaser & a wire brush by hand to clean things, hose off or wipe with damp rag. Parts usually cop a blast from the air gun to clean out any hard to get to bits.

 

Sneaky edit:

 

Leaving the shed in 5...4...3...2...

 

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Edited by carbonboy
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That turned out to be such an anti-climax. :(

 

Flywheel went on, clutch disc went on, pressure plate went on, went to setup the release fork & bearing...the bearing from the kit doesn't fit the fork. Spent ages searching for 'other size' clutch fork, finally found it & it's broken. So under floodlights, I hauled all of the above items in the photo back into the shed. Just got back from sourcing a new bearing, none in stores, waiting until 3pm for it to arrive from main warehouse. Literally champing at the bit to do this!

 

Lesson re-learned: Check all of the things!

 

Edit: Killing time waiting for bearing, have never been quite happy with the heater setup on an AE80/2, switched to an AE90 unit. Will just look neater IMHO.

 

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Edited by carbonboy
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