nicistheshit Posted June 7, 2013 Report Share Posted June 7, 2013 wheeew you got a little project ahead of you... you got this non running assuming? what engine are you gunna put in? the little k series again? looooots of rust dude.. don't bog it up. cut all that shit out. get yourself a little welder and grinder... go to town! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
widomski Posted June 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 The bushings are Superpro, I bought a full set on ebay for around $200 and supplemented the kit with some whiteline ones for the front swaybar mounts. My lca bushings are single piece, with a tube in the middle. I'll try and find/cut some pipe just a bit bigger than the bush and try again. The bush does flex like mad when you try and put it in! I purchaed a full oxy kit (CIG australian set) with regs for $150 a while back, just waiting for the cash to rent the cylinders. I can't stand cheap MIGs so I went with it. I'll definately be doing a lot of cutting and grinding as I'm in no rush. The bog was a half assed attempt and I'll definately be chopping it out. I'm probably going to end up doing a respray myself as well (yes, i'm getting ahead of myself!) just because of the rust and the success of other people on the forum. And the paint is terrible. The photos do no justice on how bad the paint is.... I have all the gear (LV spray guns etc) so should be good. I got a replacement 4K cheaply so that will be going in. I tossed up going 4age, but that is out of my budget and league at the moment. The original engine was trashed. Apparently the head was unremovable after blowing the headgasket, but a few turns of the starter locked the motor up completely. I stripped the old block and the pistons had jammed in their bores. :wtf: I have a lot of work to do.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted June 8, 2013 Report Share Posted June 8, 2013 (edited) Put the steel tube in the bush and try press it so it doesnt flex. Edited June 8, 2013 by B.L.Z.BUB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
widomski Posted July 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2013 Well, things have been progressing slowly. I got a full set of king lowered springs (30mm) and cleaned and refilled the front shocks. Front suspension has been tidied up a bit too and i finally got those darn front LCA bushes in, as well as the strut bars and the swaybar. Now that I've gotten most of the back suspension out, I've gotten stuck with this charming fellow: Yeah, yeah, oh the horror! I've thrown pretty much everything at it - impact on a swivel, breaker bar, heat, grinder etc. I even went out and bought an air saw to try and get in there and cut the bolt inside the mount - nope. I have a feeling the crush tube has rusted to the screw and is making things difficult (on both sides too!). I sprayed some Inox into the mount and around the screw for now (seems like multispray did nothing). Everything else came off fine with the rattle gun! :( Also stuck with a rack bushing (the D one) that doesn't quite fit around the aluminium mount on the rack itself. Seems too wide or something as it doesn't quite wrap around all the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted July 21, 2013 Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 I've gotten stuck with this ouch! Is the final bid taking a grinder to one end and cutting the head right off the bolt, then smacking it out with a drift & a six-pound hammer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
widomski Posted July 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2013 ouch! Is the final bid taking a grinder to one end and cutting the head right off the bolt, then smacking it out with a drift & a six-pound hammer? preeety much. i can't fit my crappy ozito grinder in there as the disc/gearbox scuffs along the top of the mount and the edges. I'll have to wait to buy something smaller like a cutoff tool. the steering bush still bugs me. did the steering racks come in different sizes or something? :unsure: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
widomski Posted December 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2013 Big ass reply coming in... Uni went into super overdrive the past few months, but exams are finally over. Can really get into it now. Front suspension in (still need to tighten up things): Rear suspension is sorted, control (trailing?) arms came out and bushes replaced after a bit of drilling, raging and prying. No pretty photos yet as i just wanted it rolling! Car is rolling at last: Putting stuff on and checking for water leaks. We'll see how it holds up pressurized.... Up we go: Aligning the clutch: No worries until i began torquing the bolts: High tensile bolts? I think not. Either that, or i am cursed with forever screwing up bolts and things. Crappy nuts and bolts have been the cause of many "ʞ©$ɟ it, i'll go home today" events. Motor is going in..... And in..... Last 10mil was not pleasant. Crane refused to go forward as it was contacting my tyres and LCA's. Had to jack up one side and take off the wheel before I went any further. We're in! (sorry for blur, must have been excited...): Noticed one strut was clunky as hell: Top nut has loosened a fair bit. Sigh, might have to replace it with a new one because I think these are nylocs or something. Ride height on these evilbay kings. Pretty much what I expected and what I want - should be fine for dirt roads and possible trek to the Flinders (dun dun dun....) Replaced the fuel lines, fuel filter and added in hoseclamps. Many things are still not wired in: Added on the front bumper, lights and grille. Bumper is kinda bent so I think I'll replace it. Picked up my rear lights and wondered why something was rattling inside. Turns out: Yum. Good excuse to get some different taillights.... Now dealing with the clutch cable -_____- Originally it went straight to the floor. A quick Google later found that i need to fit spacers, like hoseclamps instead of the E clip. Whatever. Still need to sort out. Not impressed, but I guess I was the idiot for breaking the old one (duh, thought I was gonna fit a 4age. Youths!): Bellhousing shot: Clutch doesn't disegange which is lame. I hope i can fix that.... Picking up new brake rotors tomorrow. Waiting for brake pads, relays for the headlight upgrade, headlight case things, door pins, window regulators and a new rear view mirror. List is no doubt incomplete and I still need to hookup a few things. Gotta swap over the dented drivers side door, clean up some rust and it should be ready next year. Will make a video of first start, with no exhaust of course :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben-89 Posted December 13, 2013 Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 You've definitely cleaned it up well, those clutch cables have a tendency of spitting off the circlip.... Mums one did it many years ago while entering the city.... Wasn't very nice! Keep up the good work mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
widomski Posted December 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2013 Would anyone believe me if I said my car has brembo brakes? I doubt it lol. Made in italy and everything: Got 3m of vacuum hose as well. Me looking at the vacuum hose diagram and attempting to connect things up: Well screw that for now. Bought a nifty oil gauge Also a pair of seats out of a mid 90's celica. Might be a bit of work getting these onto ke rails, but they align up OK. They juuuust squeeze in and are very comfy. I found a ra40 celica at lonsdale upullit, but its seats were traaaaaaashed. My interior as its stands right now: Charged and connected up my battery. Put LED lights into my dash, i think a few are the wrong way round (bought a pack of 6). Otherwise I reckon they look good. Fixed the piss sized ground wire to the engine. Turns over much better than before, but my battery has been sitting for too long and is dead as. Poured some fuel down the carby throat and turned the key (this is the second go, and I'm no movie maker): Not much besides a few pops before my battery died :( Looked at my ignition leads and I don't think they are in the correct order. Spent a while looking for the right way but couldn't find any good photos online. Painted my air filter housing because it was rather crappy looking. Welp, thats it for now. Taking a break for the weekend as I have little money and want to do something else. If anyone could point me in the right direction for the correct order of those ignition leads, that would be great :y: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted December 14, 2013 Report Share Posted December 14, 2013 The leads are in the right order, but the timing looks terrible. My #1 is by the head, between your #1 and #2. You'll need to re-time the ignition, which is a little time-consuming but well worth the extra tuning along the way. Take out the spark plugs and check the gaps and general condition. Leave them out. Take off the rocker cover and set all the tappet gaps, turning the motor with a spanner on the front pulley & when you're done leave the motor so the pulley timing mark is about the 10deg mark on the cam cover and its firing #1.. Check that the points have the right gap and are in good condition. Turn on the ignition and watch the dizzy cam & points rubbing block while you turn the motor past 10deg. The little cam should just crack open the points at 10deg and it should spark. The rotor should point towards #1 plug lead. If it all doesn't, then turn the pulley backwards to say 45deg before the mark and slowly approach it again. Always check it when turning forwards so the cam chain is tight. You might have to swap plug leads or pull the dizzy out and move it a tooth. The firing order is 1-3-4-2, and the dizzy goes clockwise. Put the tappet cover back on and the plugs in and it should fire up no problem. A timing light is nice but not essential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
widomski Posted December 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2013 Swapped some leads over to get the correct firing order and turned the distributor so #1 was near the head. Bought a cheapo jumpstarter, charged the battery, put some fuel down the carb and turned the key. Engine promptly started firing but didn't run on its own. I think I have too many vacuum leaks :/ Will sort out the leaks tomorrow hopefully. Cheers for the advice altezzaclub, much appreciated :y: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
widomski Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Bought a 12" thermo fan kit and stuff for h4 relay conversion: Both of my engine fans had the clutches welded shut so I decided I'd swap for this. Bought new plugs, fixed up the vacuum leaks and did the lean drop method of getting the idle right. Used to only run on 3 cylinders on idle, now runs real smooth. Thermo fan is keeping things very cool (at least for now). Clutch still doesn't disengage which is a PITA. I've seen people use a spacer where the cable goes through the bellhousing so I might try that. Pretty happy with the compression too (this is on all cylinders): Not really sure if this gauge is accurate, but it read 90psi on one of my g11 charades cylinders so I dunno. Seems a bit high for a 4K! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Nah- 180 is just very good compression on a 4K. That motor must be rebuilt. Make sure the clutch cable is fixed at the bottom where it goes in through the hole at the bellhousing, it should have a circlip down there. Then just space the top. I usually just pull the outer cable forwards and get an idea of how much freeplay there is, then find some circular bit of plastic or something to use as a spacer to that distance. Make a hole that fits the outer cable through and a slot as wide as the inner cable and put it on to space the top circlip out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
widomski Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 So uh, this happened today: Bought them (the quads) veeery cheaply. Came off an RA40 celica. Might try to make them fit later with some different surrounds, or cut out the beaver panel to make them fit. Curious to hear what people think. I really don't want to spend stupid money on quadlights, frankly the $500 or whatever people spend on them these days for JDM points is pretty meh for me. Clear semi sealed lights (7x5) are on the way, bought a replacement indicator multiswitch thing and a driver sunvisor. Still in the process of doing the h4 relay conversion, gotta tidy things up so I don't have ugly wiring and Adelaides unpleasant heatwave has been no help 35 degrees at night makes wiring a frustrating task. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted January 18, 2014 Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 Nice idea! Can you just trim the plastic of the Celica surround to fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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