5M-Ge Engine Swap? Jimmy P Is Crazy!

[B.L.Z.BUB]

This is a quality build thread. Loving it.

[Jimmy P]

I stopped by Home Depot and picked up a bunch of 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch black wiring loom. It is cheap, protects the wires from the elements, gives it a factory look, and looks great! I collected the wires together that run across the face of the car. These wires include the Alternator wires, headlights, turn signals, and corner lights. Also the horn and/or fog lights if you want them. I wrapped them in the plastic loom, and zip tied the whole thing to the car in a few locations.

 

 

 

I didn't run the ground wires through the loom, because they can just attach to the frame at any location. This is also how Toyota does the stock ground wires. I start by gathering all the pieces that I'll need, and trimming the heat shrink tubing to the proper length.

 

 

 

 

Then I strip the sheathing from the ends of the wires, and twist the copper strands together.

 

 

Then I slide the precut piece of heat shrink tubing over the wire and out of the way.

 

 

 

 

Next, I crimp on a ring connection.

 

 

 

Last, slide the heat shrink tubing down into the crimp connector until it's stuck, and apply heat. I use a lighter, but a heat gun is good because it won't leave the burn marks.

 

 

I kept the factory plugs for the parking lights, because I knew I would be hooking it back together. This will keep a "factory" look, and be helpful if I ever need to replace the light socket. All wire to wire connections are soldered together, then heat shrink tubing is used to keep the connections clean and dry.

 

 

 

 

Well.... I did some work last week, but I forgot to bring the camera. So, here's what I did; I removed the steering rack from the AE71 cross member, and then I cleaned the entire unit, lower control arms and all (minus the rack) really well. Next, I bolted the cross member into the TE72, and made sure everything was tight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then I measured the upper core support and found the best places to cut it, in order to remove the center section. I figure out that I needed to cut it inside of the holes. This way I'll have lots of metal-to-metal contact when welding it back on. Last, I used a hacksaw to slice the core support in two places. It was a synch, and if I need more clearance, I can always cut more.

 

 

 

However, the final placement of the radiator is still a mystery. So I may never have to weld this piece back in. This would mean hood pins for sure.

 

[Jimmy P]

Well, I removed the extra metal on the firewall that was in the way of new steering column. I started by making a template of the new firewall pass-through. This was done by placing cardboard on the piece and tracing it.

 

 

 

Then I placed the template on the firewall over the old hole; making sure to line up the three matching bolt holes with each other.

 

 

After tracing a ruff line around the template, I went back and made the line straighter and darker.

 

 

 

Then I cut out the hole and removed all sharp corners.

 

 

 

Last, I taped off the area and painted the new hole.

 

 

 

 

The next day I removed the old clutch master cylinder and replaced it with a new one. I also repainted firewall in that area where the paint had been eaten away. This should be the last body related work that needs to be done. I was kinda dreading this step, cause I hate sanding and painting. But it turned out pretty good.

 

First; disconnect the pin that secures the pedal arm to the cylinder rod. Then, remove the two bolts (one outside, lower/ one inside, upper). My clutch line has already been cut and pinched off, so it did not need to be removed. In most cases you would need to disconnect the hard line that feeds the high pressure to the slave cylinder. Once everything has been disconnected, simply pull the clutch master out. If the reservoir has fluid still in it, make sure not to spill any on the paint, it is very corrosive.

 

 

 

 

 

I took this time to sand down the old paint and surface rust. An extension on a wire wheel works perfect for this, but some places still require the old wire brush. Once the area was clean and rust free, I blew out the sediment with the air supply, and wiped the surface with some rubbing alcohol. Then I taped off the area and set up some lights to heat the metal and help with the drying (it's also helpful to see what you're doing). I applied six coats, not counting the first coat; which was a light dusting to get a good tack on the surface. I left 5-10 mins between each coat, depending on how thick the coat turned out to be. Then I left it to dry and cure for about two hours under the lights. I then removed the paper and tape.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Back to the clutch master; you will need to keep the pedal attaching bracket and pin from the old unit. They should be easy enough to remove by hand by unscrewing it. But you may need a wrench if it's a bit sticky. Attach the bracket to the new unit and fit it onto the car. Tighten down the two bolts and reattach the cylinder rod to the pedal arm with the pin and keeper. Make sure to bench bleed the new unit before hooking the high pressure line back to it. This will keep excessive air bubbles from entering the hydraulic system.

 

 

 

[ketodriftke70wagon]

This is a awesome build thread man. keep the good work coming!

[G0TRIC3?]

Always wondered if I just kept seeing Corollas with welded back doors to make it a coupe until I read this and realised was an actual rolla model! Would love one for a daily but alas non existant where I live :(( awesome detail in the build in this thread and so many pictures to actually see the work progress! Crazy conversion mate hope to see some updates soon :thumbsup:

[Jewies TE72]

Hey jimmy I'm new here but i just wanted to ask a few questions. Like what are you going to di about the brake master cyl and is the intake going to be in the way?

[Jimmy P]

My new brake master cylinder is from a Ford Contour. And I will be using it without a booster. The factory BMC and Booster will not fit with 5M-GE in the TE72 location. If I had an AE72 (looks identical, only made in 1983) I could use the factory BMC and the booster. They are mounted closer to the side of the car, like how they are mounted in an AE86.