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Just Bought A Ae71 4Age Need Some Good Advice


conan

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Just bought a little blue ae with a few problems... The biggest one is the clutch pedal u need to push it a little beyond the floor to make it engage properly n i don't know how to adjust it theres a few bolts on the pedal box or am i best bleeding the hydrloic line... Then theres the box its a t50 but it is pretty hard to get from gear to gear the guy i bought it off said the little plastic round bit on the end of the shifter is worn so how do i fix this... The last problem atm is it idles at about 2000rpm n the idle screw wont go any further in so is a new throttle sensor or could it be the cut n shut throttle body any advice would b awesome cheers

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^Then how do you learn anything?

 

The biggest one is the clutch pedal u need to push it a little beyond the floor to make it engage properly n i don't know how to adjust it theres a few bolts on the pedal box or am i best bleeding the hydrloic line...

 

Try bleeding the fluid and make sure there are no air bubbles. Operate the clutch and see how far the clutch fork is moving. The clutch pushes a piston attached to the clutch arm, the piston has a thread which can be adjusted at the pedal (its a bitch to do as there is no space). Does it feel like there is a lot of pedal movement before it feels like its engaging? Can you pull the pedal out at all?

 

 

Then theres the box its a t50 but it is pretty hard to get from gear to gear the guy i bought it off said the little plastic round bit on the end of the shifter is worn so how do i fix this...

 

The gear issue will probably be related to the clutch pedal issues but...

Remove the plastic shifter surround, remove the 4 10mm bolts holding the rubber boot plate on. Under that is the top of the shifter pivot ball thing. Theres is a circlip holding the shifter in. Unclip the circlip and the shifter will lift out. Inspect the bottom plastic thing, see how it looks or post pics here.

 

The last problem atm is it idles at about 2000rpm n the idle screw wont go any further in so is a new throttle sensor or could it be the cut n shut throttle body any advice would b awesome cheers

 

Is that when warm or when cold? I'm assuming you are using the idle screw on top of the throttle body not the screw under it. If you have wound the idle screw on top all the way in check the someone hasnt tried to adjust the idle with the screw underneath. Make sure the throttle is going back to the 0% point.

 

 

I have dealt with pretty much all these issues fixing mine. My gear change issue was the throwout bearing carrier was the wrong part plus a cracked pedal box.

Edited by B.L.Z.BUB
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Ok so ive bled the clutch to no avail the guy i bought it off said he changed the motor and the pressure plate at the same time and hes been having that trouble since the good news os tomorro I'm picking up the other 4age n hopefully it has the other pressure plate or should i just replace the clutch

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Check that the push rod on the clutch pedal is moving enough to push the master cylinder,also check how far the slave cylinder is moving.

 

I f it seems to be working ok . It sounds like you will have to take the box out .

 

A couple of things to check when you do 1:check which way the clutch plate is in it (maybe wrong way around)

 

2 Have a look at the clutch fork make sure its still seated on the pivot ball.

 

3 Check the thrust bearing still has the 2 small clips holding it on the fork

 

4 Also check that the clutch fork is not split (unlikely but has happened)

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2 Have a look at the clutch fork make sure its still seated on the pivot ball.

 

3 Check the thrust bearing still has the 2 small clips holding it on the fork

 

 

 

YES! Forgot to mention that, thats how I figured out my thrust bearing carrier was wrong.

If you get to the point you drop the box and the clips holding it to the fork are missing, broken etc you can get them new from Toyota for about $10.

Or if your stuck Ill post you my spare pair (if they're needed).

 

Another thing you might wanna check is if there is any flex of the clutch master when you press the clutch. Get someone to press the clutch and see if the master cylinder flexes with the firewall. If it does this could mean a broken clutch master mount.

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ok so I took the box out today and the clutch was almost bare so in went a new one the thrust bearing in the kit didn't fit so I kept the old it didn't have any clips on it so I used the clip from the new kit held together pretty good I thought. got it all back together n now its worse than before I think I may of put the clutch in backwards is it spring side to the gearbox or motor tomorrow I'll have a look at the mounts for the master n I'm pretty sure the slave is off a fwd box the writing on it faces the motor not out so will that b a problem. finally for todays efforts when I took the gear shifter out the little plastic cup was broken in the middle so I glued it back up n now the box feels much tighter still no luck finding the second idle screw but that's not a priority atm.

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A general rule of thumb for clutch plate is, with the clutch removed hold it the clutch plate up to the fly wheel.

 

If it sits flush with the fly wheel with out you springs hitting the fly wheel thats usually right way .

 

Then turn it around it should sit badly and not flush ,this is wrong and bad.

 

Most new kits have fly wheel side written on them.

 

This a generally the case.

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Taking into account what everyone has said i decieded to replace all the parts that could have problems. Today i bought a new master and slave on $30 each so i was cheering. Also got the right thurst bearing and it seems i have the clutch in the right way so ive taken tomorro off work to get this little problem sorted( fingers crossed)

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Pulled the master out today n found out its not off an ae71 so my job just got harder because now i need to take off the inlet manifold and drill new holes. Also the pedal box looks like a ke70 clutch pedal with a bit of steel welded to it which is just fantastic i think someone took the backyard job a little too far

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Also the pedal box looks like a ke70 clutch pedal with a bit of steel welded to it which is just fantastic i think someone took the backyard job a little too far

 

:POSTPICS!:

 

 

The stock KE70 manual pedal box is an auto one with a bit welded on, so it might just be like that. or did they weld on a fitting to take the hydraulic rod??

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