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Ke-86 Build (Not A K Powered Ae86 Sorry)


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Hey, i'm Jeff I thought I had better try and write a build thread seeing as I spend so much time rambling about toyotas with corolla guys...


if you want to see more up to date progress and pictures then check out my pagey businessy thingo i have on facebook... KE-86 https://www.facebook.com/ke86corolla


i named it ke-86 because this ke10 uses ALOT of different parts and i like toyotas ke's to 86's...


this thread is super out of date and alot has changed so bare with me... ill try and update it regularly


Probably long winded and boring.. But it’s just as much for my reference as yours, any questions just ask.. I am just over 2 years into this build.. it is super slow as I’m still learning, working full time and trying to buy tools as well as car parts.. :/



So it was a probably three years ago now when a mate of mine called me up and said his "new" car was out the front and I should come and have a look.


It was a ke20 corolla, in its full glory with a blue rattle can paint job and a black painted hood... It was rough to say the least.. Dents, rust, mix matched rims and just generally a bit shit... But from then on I realised that when I could afford it I needed an older car, this was when I became a corolla fan.




Having just got my license I had a little Daewoo for a daily driver to get me to school and work..




But I already had a project car which was a Toyota sera 1990 that I got from my dad who found it in a paddock super cheap.. So I spent year 11 and 12 working part time to pay to fix it up.. And I still own it now.







After learning a lot about cars and wasting all my money.. I decided towards the end of year 12 that the corolla Jackson had was pretty cool.. Drawn to Toyota's and especially old ones I began looking..

Shovel nose Coronas, crowns, Cressida’s and pretty much anything...


I stumbled upon a ke10 corolla while sitting in a car park wasting time surfing the net. It was in Victoria around 800km's away, $4000 was a bit steep but I rang him anyway after less than 5 minutes on the phone I had talked him down to 3k.. Still too much so I left it for the time being.. I kept checking almost daily. About 6 week's later I had enough cash, a weekend off and the price had dropped once again. So I rang my father and decided to make the trek.. We jumped in the sera, no air con or radio and drove the 800kms interstate. we pumped up the tires, registered and put fuel in the new KE10 and were on our way home before we knew it... Now being a 1969 2speed auto 1.2L it was slow... i am talking 85 km/hr flat foot the whole way home... So 23 hours and 55 minutes after leaving home we walked back through the door.

It was an interesting trip home to say the least.. Fumes leaking in, air coming through the windows, firewall and pretty much everywhere else.. The thing I noticed in this painfully long drive was that it drove like a bucket of bolts, with no brakes.... Purely awful.. But it sure had character..











So I drove it around for a week or two, then needed to get the rego swapped over to South Australian rego. I took it to my mechanics and ripped the engine out to clean up the rusty crap and clean off some of the grease and 40 years of disgust. That's sort of when excrement dusted the walls. It had been in an accident or 10.. I began stripping all the paint from the front window forwards to see all the damage... To shorten the story slightly. Bog, bog everywhere. Chassis rail and all. I fixed and tidied what I could and took it to get the rego swapped. thankfully all went smoothly and I drove it around for another month or two.










Heaps more to come!


ill try and upload at least once a week until I'm all up to date....


thankyou for reading :)

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That rust is nasty, good luck with the repairs man.


The story of buying the car is awesome, reminds me of when I bought my first KE10 some

20 years ago, but I didn't drive as far.


They're such great cars and so much fun to play with, looking forward to hearing more

About your progress


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Thanks for the kind words KE1069, it sure has continued to be an adventure...


Mark90 - heres the second update..






As I cannot weld, my mechanic (a friend of the family) instructed me as to where I needed to cut and I took the top layer of steel off of the RHS chassis rail. We then fabricated a new piece out of 4mm plate. The steel around the chassis (other than the top) were in good condition so that was a huge bonus. Clamped, welded and a little tidy up with a grinder and this is what we have now.





With the help of a mate I put the engine back in and re assembled the car. In the process of doing this I realised the battery holder, which was meant to be solid was now just a frame hardly holding the battery in.. Therefore I had to quickly fabricate up a new one.







When I went to regency (vehicle check centre) I was starting to stress a little as I have only heard bad things about the workers there defecting cars for little things, and as this particular corolla is a bit rough it was making me a little uneasy.. My number was called, and I drove in expecting the worst. Literally 5 minutes later I was driving out. The corolla was completely fine and passed easily. Granted it may have had something to do with the fact that as I drove in the inspectors face lit up seeing a ke10 “like the one he learned to drive in”.. but hey.. I’m not complaining.





After driving about for a bit I decided it was super slow and I just couldn’t bare it any longer. I decided to do a manual swap onto the current 3k engine (1.2L), though after a little research I found that a 4k (1.4L) was a better platform and with a little work they can have 70-90hp, which has to be at least double the current standings..

I spent a few weeks on the forums meeting people and trying to find out exactly what I had to do. (I was pretty rookie then) it was then I found a thread from a local guy (now a mate) had a semi rare 5k engine with a small turbo putting out 170+hp.. After having a chat I was sold on the idea of forced induction, it so happened that he had a spare 5k.. which I bought.. then a stack more parts.




I have in my possession,


All the gaskets and seals for the conversion


TOMEI pushrods, from a Datsun A12 surprisingly


Double row strengthened valve springs.


A 7k efi head


A 5k block,


350 Chevrolet solid lifters (apparently they fit)


An sc14 supercharger (I prefer instant power, but can always change to turbo later)


I have a boost ground cam to pick up


And I also have a freshly ground crank to go get as well..


and a few other things.. missing pistons, bearings and bolts


and two or three 5 speed gearboxes..






this was all dropped off to the engine machinist on monday and he will start working on it to be done around the end of march (i get back from nz)





The door and rear side trims seemed to be in good condition until I realised that one of the doors was off of a 67 Ke10 which has the door lock on the door (not the top of the door). Once again… I decided to remake something.. bit of MDF and a few templates later and the rears are done , next was to trim them… as I’m doing an entirely black interior I purchased some black vinyl.. i then had a shot at trimming the rears myself… I believe they turned out decent for a first shot. Being that out of the two there is one small ripple. i didn’t take pictures of the finished pieces, and they are somewhere in the shed, so i will take pictures when i find them ahha. Remade the parcel shelf also as it was starting to rot..

I am yet to finish the doors, but I’ll get there..






From A few years ago, I have a really loud and bass filled stereo system, can’t really remember the specs.. but like 2000w or something? Both sub and speaker amps and a 12 inch sub.

Anyway.. It was intended for the sera.. but as that has been destine to be returned to stock except suspension and wheels it has been sitting in the shed unused..

I figured.. why not?! Made some measurements and a few designs… In the end I came up with a decent layout..

Some more MDF and a few tries later.. This is what I ended up with..

It allows me to house the battery, windscreen washer bottle, hopefully a jack and some tools.. Though most importantly it allows me to carry a spare… (Space saver but it’s better than being stranded..) the design has changed a bit since these pictures, but as i moved the boot set up is packed away in the shed so these will have to do for now.

Still a little more work to go on the enclosure.. Like everything I guess..








sorry once again if this thread is a jumble, the majority of it is being copied from another thread i typed up months ago, so if there is any holes let me know!

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sooo... i forgot about this...


i now own a ke16 also...


but for now heres some copy paste from the stanceworks thread to tide you over for a few more months... or so until i update it haha





I was in search of some older bucket seats to sort of stay periodically correct (looks wise). While on one of my regular u-pull-it trips for random bits and pieces, I noticed a sign that said “any seat just $11 this month”. So I had a search around, really just wasting time like normal, when I stumbled across an Alfa Romeo sprint, with some decent looking front seats, a little rough but decent shape and had potential. Paid some guy $5 to borrow his allen keys, ten minutes later I was trying to squeeze two of these into a lancer :/ probably a bad move on my part but I did it..






Recently I decided to make the seats some new brackets to mount it to the corollas seat mounts, few bits of 5mm plate, and few welds and some grinding later.. I had these.






Ke20’s are slightly wider and a bit longer so the cross member is thicker therefore the bolt holes didn’t line up to bolt to the chassis so I worked out where the engine would sit in a Ke10 and where it would sit in a Ke20 then I drilled the holes so that the engine would sit in the same spot. I had to reinforce the cross member because the bolt holes weren’t where they needed to be.



Because a Ke20 cross member used lcas (Lower Control Arms) instead of wishbones. I worked out which were the longest ones out of the corollas and that came to be the Ke55. The longer lcas made the struts sit further apart which gave negative camber rather than positive (in theory). I had to slot the cross member so I got a little bit more width and now it sits at negative 1 camber.

Bad picture sorry..


Ke10s originally have a steering box, which is sloppy and unpredictable. So I got a Steering rack and pinion out of a Ke70 because they’re more common and use much better technology. Not to mention they’re easier to replace. I cut the steering mounts off a Ke20 and cut them out of a Ke70 that way we had the Ke70 steering rack mounts so that we could copy them onto the Ke20 cross member. I got some steel and made brackets to put the Ke70 mounts onto the Ke20 cross member so then I could use the bushes and mounts out of a Ke70 cause they’re more common and easy to replace if they wear out. I had to shorten the tie rod ends (cut about an inch out of each side).






Next, Ke70 steering column was put in because it’s collapsible and if I happen to crash, I won’t break my face. It’s stronger and more reliable not to mention more accurate as far as steering goes. It’s also thicker and has actual bearings that hold it in. Its longer, therefore sits closer to you and you can actually get your foot off the clutch. New mounts had to be made as it wasn’t a direct bolt in; I made a 5mm steel bracket. To get it central to the seat, I had to move it an inch and a half further away from the centre of the car.

I’ll be using Ke10 indicator stalks and column cover to keep the original look but I’ll still need to make brackets






Once I had the new steering column mounted and fitted centrally, I realised that the steering wheel (which I purposely made closer) was a little too close. I decided to leave it for the night and went to a mates house.. Where I spotted an old wood grain 2 spoke steering wheel which was relatively flat, and thus sat slightly further away.

After mentioning it to him.. I walked out with it free as it didn’t fit corollas so he had no use for it (he’s a corolla nut to)..

Being a little bit more ambitious than him.. I went to the spare rolla shit pile I have in my shed and found the old ke70 wheel that came with the column. Seen as it was rotten and pretty munched sorta just…. Went axe murder on it and cut it up with the grinder, and then got on the lathe and just made it fit into the wheel. Tacked it in place and hey presto..





The next problem was that the nut that holds the wheel on stuck out a bit, and looked hella dodgy. So I made this little doughnut thingo that I will get re trimmed soon to go with the rest of the interior.





The Ke10 manual pedal box had to be heavily modified as the pedals didn’t clear the steering column. I made an extra bracket to ensure that the steering column stayed in place. The pedals are still in production but will be finished in no time.






As I’ve taken out the transverse leaf spring the lcas will be free to move back and forwards. So that when you accelerate they will go backwards and when you break they’ll go forwards. To do this I had to drill two holes in the front cross rail, I had to put in steel sleeves in, and they are welded in. Through the sleeves, are half inch high tension bolts and they’re holding the rose joints onto the front rail which will hold the castor arms in place. To prevent any extra stress caused by this I reinforced the front rail to the side rails.





So that I could have the car lower and looking better and to keep the shock/travel rate the same I purchased some Celica shock inserts that were 60mm shorter thus gave 60mm drop right away. Then I shortened the Ae86 struts that I bought by 60mm. This allowed me to change the stud pattern that is more common and you can get better wheels for. Another bonus was the better selection of shocks, if they needed to be changed in the future, finally the sturts can also accommodate for bigger brakes (not drums).

(I bought some JFZ’s which are older willwoods )



Because the strut towers in the Ke10 are much smaller I needed to get a smaller diameter spring because the Ae86 springs didn’t fit. The fact that it’s a coilover kit allows me to change the height at a later date if need be.





As the track is now wider the wheels sat outside the guards. To get them under the guards I made customs strut tops out of old adjustable camber tops and made a bracket to hold the camber top bearing. This gives me both castor and camber as well as being under the guards. Because the Ae86 struts were shortened 60 mm the roll centre of the car was out and the lcas were almost bottomed out meaning it would not have driven very well. I needed to make some roll centre adjustment blocks (60mm) to space the lcas down so that you could actually turn and go over bumps and not get bump steer therefore not crashing into a bush.








Anything that can be worn out by being old second hand parts were replaced. Unlike a lot of people I wouldn’t put second hand parts in if they could go wrong before I even get to drive.

I sourced some reproduction mg fender mount mirrors, which are kinda close to the stock JDM Ke10 ones.. which I like heaps better than the door mounted mirror on one side… cheap Toyota..






and this is how she stands now..








still a little left to update.. and its not in the order that i actually did it.. so pictures wont be in order.. but hopefully it makes sense...

ill finish the updating this week sometime hopefully.



hope you guys are enjoying the build so far. :)


- JeffTree

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I recently moved house and more importantly, sheds.. so i moved from a double car port to my new 6 car shed.. (6mx12m) with a smaller 4mx6m shed i will use for storage, here are some pictures.









And this has been my super awesome (stock) daily for the last 6-8 months..





Since I really got into cars back in the early 2000’s ( when I was young) everyone was into chrome wheels and all these little body mods and stuff which I just think look a bit tacky (can be pulled off well, but very rarely) back to the point, I dislike chrome and wood grain..most of the time.. but I plan to use a bit of wood grain (like I said it can be used well) but I still think masses of chrome and wood grain look shocking..

TO MY POINT.. I wanted to remove as much chrome as possible in this build as I like the blacked or murdered out look.. I got as much chrome as I could (headlight surrounds, bumpers, grill, tail lights, bonnet trims, and a few others) and took them to an electroplate to remove the chrome.. I plan to paint it all satin black for a bit of a different look.. I’m just hoping it will look good.

Also I’m removing the side trims completely because… well I think it would look tacky with them in black and i cannot really leave them chrome.

Here is a really bad photoshop of what i hope to aim for..



Next i tackled the guage cluster and rebuilt it make it look better and all operational, i also rigged up some new lights into it so i can actually see the speedo when its dark.. BLURRIEST PICTURE EVER









Another random thing.. i stripped the front end and started using the wire wheel to clean it all up for paint






When i was making the mounts for the steering wheel / coloum.. i decided i needed a wooden gear knob to blend in with the new wheel.

So i picked a design i liked..


And then made this on the lathe


To finish off the wheel centre my friend is getting the old Toyota emblem embroidered onto some vinyl so i can wrap the wooden steering wheel cover and hide the column bolt. I am getting a few different colours so i can see which fits better, but here is a picture of the tester.


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today i organised all the front end bolts, nuts and washers into bags so i know what i need when i go into the shop tomorrow.. nothing exciting but needs to be done


then i painted a few of the front end parts, ready for reassembly :D so excited for that bit..


no pics of these two yet...


for the last week or so.. i have been slowly working out and designing this mount for the indicator stalk.. as the steering colum is not the original one it needed some mods... as usual.


this adaptor is the correct size so that i can run the stock steering wheel (if i ever want to..)


the mount adapts the original ke70 steering colum bearing bolt pattern to the indicator stalks inner mounts.. and also acts as a spacer..


heres some pictures...














with this mount.. it leaves a perfect little gap with the stock wheel..




however with the wooden wheel.. it doesnt fit to well..




so i made this.. which will be welded onto the back of the wheel. and close the gap.. like so..









and thats pretty much it for now... so heres a picture of my cat..



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