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Ali's Ground Up Ke25 Rebuild


aalaws

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Finally finished the Rotisserie - stands had bigger castors mounted & more supports added.

(also had to heighten them a bit more as I stuffed up my measurements)

 

A mate (and pro welder) came and cast his professional eye over my welds to put my noobie nerves at rest............all good!!

Just need a few of my mates to come over and I'll have the shell up on the spit!!

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And after much "ummmming and ahhhhing" I have bought some paint stripper to save some $$ and get a bunch done myself first

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I picked up a few christmas pressies from Japan too.....

NOS kick plates/sill plates and some TE27 retractable seat belts (not available in nz

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Also found one of these......and my 3D prototypes have had a second run - a few more tweaks and they'll be ready for production

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  • 4 months later...
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moved to a new town, set up new business, had a baby, set up shed........finally got some progress

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I set up the second half of the shed for the car by closing it in with some plastic.

Best decision EVER! SOOOOO much BOG! discovered already = So much dust!!

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Got the rear quarter and drivers door stripped and coated in keyphos.

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The lower section was about 6mm thick with bog, covering up a few dents and a massive hole, and surprisingly the sill wasn't rusty, just totally dented in and filled with bog.

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Went through 2/3 coats of paint stripper then ended up having to use strip discs as 50% of the panel and the drivers door were totally layered in bog. Two strip discs and a dead grinder later i'm wondering if I just cut straight to sandblasting.....

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  • 4 weeks later...

Got some shed time in yesterday avo......Stripped the roof/coated in Keyphos - great stuff! Just wipe it on and it stops any surface rust forming.

And no I haven't primed the inside - that's just the new layer of bog dust EVERYWHERE. SO MUCH DUST!

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Only one small dent under it all which was nice.

 

I had two coats of the gunmetal grey, a layer of spray filler in spots and some red primer (didn't see any original green up there) to remove,

and even after scuffing the paint with some 60 grit, applying the stripper and wrapping it in plastic, I find I have to do it 2/3 times in some spots, and very thickly......is this normal?

 

I seem to spend HEAPS of time on the grinder with the strip disc too, thought the stripper would be more potent.....I'm using TERGO STRIP.

 

Stripped the passenger rear quarter and a few smaller spots......

Hardly any bog so came away nice and easy this time.

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Bit of a crease/dent leading up to the tail light and a hole in the bottom corner, but otherwise really clean!

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The sill is pretty straight compared to the drivers side, a few dents but doesn't need to be replaced thankfully.

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Edited by aalaws
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I found the stripping discs the best too albeit slow.

 

Pain stripper and bog and many layers of paint doesnt play well.

 

Looking good! Not too much body work so far

 

Yeah seems the discs are the best way to go.

If there's heaps of bog, the stripper only really lifts the top layer and exposes it - I'll put it down to experience now.

 

Yeah maybe only around 9-10 spots that need a bit of new steel so far, I guess it could be worse??

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Got the boot stripped today - two big holes to deal with, all the way through sad.png

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Also......what do you guys of to get rid of the surface rust inside your doors/panels like this stuff?

Some I could reach with a dremmel, just seeing what other options I have.....

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Churning through the strip discs now......just when Mitre 10 is going to stop stocking them!!

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Only minor surface rust, a small dent and some bent corners........these are usually swiss cheese along the front - SO STOKED!

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Easy fix for a panel beater?

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I have lots of small spots of surface rust here and there like this - do I leave it for sandblasting or what?

 

Help me out rust guru's!!

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Wire wheel on a drill to get into the pitted sections.

 

Inside the doors and panels is tough. Worse case is your have to de-skin them.

Maybe soda blaster ?

 

cheers, i'll give it a go with the wire wheel

 

get yourself some metal conditioner. (Deoxidine) follow instructions. prime right away. the use cavity wax/fish oil

 

the panels are coated in Keyphos until the shell is blasted and they'll all get primed together.

Are you suggesting putting the cavity way straight over the surface rust inside the doors etc?

Edited by aalaws
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Great project mate, definitely worth the time going back to baremetal.

 

I found paint stripper only good for flat panels and repeat application was needed, even when you use a bag or glad wrap to trap the fumes and get deeper penetration. A wire brush on an angle grinder is quite versatile although you get sick of wearing the scraps of wire!

I think there's no quick way unless you get it soda/bead blasted.

 

+1 for metal conditioner, I put acrylic topcoat down 4 years ago and have had no rust popping through since.

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Great project mate, definitely worth the time going back to baremetal.

 

I found paint stripper only good for flat panels and repeat application was needed, even when you use a bag or glad wrap to trap the fumes and get deeper penetration. A wire brush on an angle grinder is quite versatile although you get sick of wearing the scraps of wire!

I think there's no quick way unless you get it soda/bead blasted.

 

+1 for metal conditioner, I put acrylic topcoat down 4 years ago and have had no rust popping through since.

 

Thanks Doogs.

 

I've had enough paint/bog stripping to last a lifetime already. I did the passenger door today and it was even worse.....dented, rusted - probably gonna be best to reskin it.

 

I sit back and look at all that needs to be done and it can get a bit overwhelming, so I have to take it in small steps. Next goal is to dry ice the sound deadening and get the rest of the shell/rust sand blasted and get everything treated and epoxy primed.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...

Dry ice works a treat when you grind it up a bit = no more sound deadening.

Only a few spots of surface rust under there thankfully.

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Stripped back my only genuine fender, found a mess on the bottom and another hack job on nose!!

I've got a few spare aftermarket ones but I hear they can be an average fit. I also ordered a rust repair panel for it and a few other goodies in the mail.

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Now it's off to the sandblaster with a bunch of other bits.

Whats better for the subframe etc.......powdercoating or painting?

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