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Can The Spindle/foot Be Removed From The Strut Tube; Ae86.


luk3333

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I've got a set of Ae86 struts that have been converted into coilovers but I'm not happy with the quality. Essentially I want to replace the cut and welded stock tube with a new not-welded tube with a nice new gland nut thread cut in the top (threads damaged currently). The strut tube doesn't appear to be welded to spindle casting, so I was wondering if anyone had tried removing it with a bit of heat. I'd like to know before I go ripping the suspension out of my car preferably. Thanks

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I supplied a pair to Murray Cootes Suspension (the famous MCA of motorsport) and all they wanted was the casting with about 100mm of tube on it. They weld a new tube onto that bit I suppose, so I assume you don't get them out of the casting very easily at all. You could give them a call and just ask.

 

If you look under the strut isn't there a massive weld all the way around the inside of the cup? Is the tube closed at the bottom, pressed into the casting and welded underneath?

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Yeah fairly sure if it's same as te72 it'll be welded up underneath like where the balljoint nut sits, Pain in the ass to remove

 

Better off chopping it off part the way up the strut tube, chamfering both bits you're going to weld and spatter it together.

 

Either that or look into spindle-less bc's. Sick quality for $600 a pair and you can just chop the spindle and 60mm off strut tube off, Press it in and weld it.

 

I did that with my celica and 24 months later still perfect after a fair bit of abuse

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hmmm.. I'd have to measure one day, but the RA40 runs larger struts than the KE70, and the Bilstein people in Sydney machined those struts out to a larger diam again to take the Bilsteins we run.

 

As it is, they fit on the KE70 with Celica steering arms and LCAs. (same as RT Corona LCAs)

 

Is it worth worrying about the AE86 struts Luke? Can you find something else from the Toyota lineup to do the job?

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Those GRP4 struts look the way to go... if I had money to fill them with Bilstein goodness. Now that you mention it I do remember seeing that weld on the bottom :/ I've got access to a lathe at uni so I could cut it flush with the casting and then turn out the inside... Otherwise I'll just have to leave a bit of tube at the bottom and accept there'll be a weld on the tube somewhere. Only reason I'm bothering with the Ae86 gear is because I've already got it, but you think converting to RA40 struts and arms would be easier?

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We haven't finished yet, but we used the RA40 LCA to get more camber. The RA40 steering arm was necessary as the RA40 strut bottom bolts are a different distance apart to the KE70's. The RA40 top mount has different bolt spacings to that of the KE70 strut tower so we have a KE70 top on the same RA40 strut, & Bilstein that we rallied on. As the RA40 spring doesn't fit inside the turret, we have KE70 tops, KE70 spring retainers and KE70 springs. Steve just told me today he has new cambertops that will fit the tower, as the KE70 has an odd asymmetrical bolt pattern.

 

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/page__st__30

 

The RA40 LCA is the same as the Corona's, I'm not sure about the 'Rona strut though. Someone on here must know. So the bottom end and strut can be changed, giving bigger brakes now I think about it, but the top must be KE70.

 

In that photo the top strut, the black one, is from the RA40 & is sporting KE70 springs and retainers, and the lower strut with no spring on is the KE70 one. You can see the spring diameter difference.

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I'm pretty sure RA40 won't be easier, they are very similar. The only advantage to my knowledge is that the spindle on the RA40 strut is larger and takes a bigger bearing, so is therefore stronger. If you're not doing stuff (e.g. rally) where you're going to pound the life out of it, AE86 is just fine.

 

If you have AE86, I'd probably look at what you can do to fix what you don't like about them unless you come across some others or RA40 gear cheap.

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Guy I know had his RA40 knuckles machined out, then press the DMS body into the knuckle and weld around. Easier if you can get the shock/tube to fit over the existing tube. Used to be the trick with converting old Datsun struts to Bilsteins. Use a slightly larger, completed threaded tube that fit over ~25-50mm (just as location) of the existing strut tube the clearance was such it usually allowed you to can't it slightly and pick up a little more neg camber.

Getting away from what you're trying to do, but felt it was relevant info.

Unless I'm completely mistake, RA40 is the same stub axle size as Datsun 240K.

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