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1983 Ae71 Sport Coupe - Aka Surreptitious


oldeskewltoy

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Can't wait to see....

 

There have been many solutions for fitting the J160. We've seen cut and welds, and plates - after all that was what "170BHP" used that gave me the idea in 2006. The plate does work, it works in many trans swaps, not just the 4AG/J160.

 

What makes the LEEN different..... The LEEN works on ALL the AZ6 transmissions... The AZ6 was used in 5* cars: the Silvia S15 GT-R, the Mazda RX8, the Mazda Miata, and the Toyota/Lexus Altezza/IS200. The 5th car using a version of the AZ6... is the GT86/BRZ/FRS(we do not yet know if our adapter fits this version)

 

Also.... you can't deny the LEEN shifter relocation is a trick bit of engineering..

 

 

LONG POST

 

 

 

In my car I decided to NOT use the shifter relocation kit, I did this because the stock shifter location in many rwd Corollas is a bit too far from the driver. When shifting to 3rd, or 5th gears, it is a LONG reach...and so I extended the shifter hole in my car to accommodate the front most shifter position on the J160...

 

Note the structural cross brace was left intact.

 

floorcutinside.jpg

 

And there is just enough room... note 2ft 7"

holeextensionmeasurementfrombackofengine.jpg

 

translengthmeasurement.jpg

 

 

Final fitment

shifterhousingpokingthrough.jpg

 

 

A bit of work is needed on the underside as well.

 

floorcutunderneath.jpg

 

This will allow the shift selector rod enough clearance to operate

 

shaftposition246.jpgshaftposition135.jpg

 

 

Final fitment

selectorrodfitinradiusedchassis.jpg

 

 

 

Sooo.... length (body opening and shifter cup) appears to be pretty good, the opening should allow the shifter cup to clear the cross member. So now that the car is prepared to accept the new transmission, we need to see what the transmission needs to fit the car.........

 

 

a quick 2 panel show the current mounts for the 2 transmissions. There are a few obvious issues to overcome....

 

transviews2panel.jpg

 

1) the J160 mount is about 3 11/16" further back then the mount on the T50 (AE71 T50 mount)

 

mountdescriptionlengthmeasurements.jpg

 

and 2) the J160 mount hangs down significantly more (almost 2" lower overall), and 3) The T50 mount is NOT spaced evenly from side to side, while the J160 is evenly spaced.

 

 

Because of the amount of drop, AND the uneven side to side spacing the original cross member was discarded... to begin the brainstorming once again.......

 

transviews2panelWOcrossmember.jpg

 

 

If you stare long enough... the J160 mount begins to "tell" you the mount it "wants"

 

 

mountdescription2.jpg

 

 

So now that the mount has designed its own shape... we let the car design the rest of the shape... now the problem we have is the J160 mount is too far back to fit any of the area Toyota designed to support transmissions in the AE71....

 

mountdescriptionfloormeasurementswithnewmountlocation.jpg

You can see the T50 cross member fits the 13" span by how clean it is.. also if you look carefully I've drawn a small area inside the trans hole that represents the location of the J160 mount in relation to the floor

 

 

So the mount needs to sweep, or "wing" forward.....

 

cardstockmount1.jpg

 

Yes... that is corrugated paper for now, the mount itself is being built in 1/8" plate... Once the crossmember has been sized, gusset supports will be added to reinforce the plate.

 

 

 

 

So...

 

So the mount needs to sweep' date=' or "wing" forward.....

 

[img']http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j143/oldeskewltoy/ae71/cardstockmount1.jpg[/img]

 

Yes... that is corrugated paper for now, the mount itself is being built in 1/8" plate... Once the crossmember has been sized, gusset supports will be added to reinforce the plate.

 

 

More to come..... :D

 

 

Actually it was built with 12 gauge (.1046"), instead of 1/8" (.125")

 

 

Davids2ndattemptgood.jpg

 

 

So the ground test looks ok, The mount appears to be shaped correctly, how will it look once raised into position?

 

plateandtransroughfitted.jpg

 

Not bad... the overall mount holes are all covered, which mean the overall size is correct.

 

Once the mount holes are drilled... it looks even better.

 

finalroughfiment.jpg

 

The black marker lines show where the reinforcement/gusset will be fitted. It will also get transverse gussets as well

 

 

Again, using corrugated paper board to assist with design... OR C.A.D. :lol:

crossmemberwithCADsupport.jpg

 

crossmemberfinished.jpg

 

I'll admit... the welding is not very good... BUT... it is good enough for strength... and this part is under the car not typically seen... and so its good.

 

 

With the transmission installed... the driveshaft gets shortened 1/2" in the front half... and viola, the drivetrain is back in and connected

 

installeddriveshaft.jpg

 

 

 

Once in, I fabricated a small piece of sheet steel to fit the original opening

 

newtunnelholecover-2panel.jpg

 

 

Now that the gear lever is 5" further back, the hand brake is close, uncomfortably close... So I shorten the hand brake handle to compensate

 

handbrakeshortened.jpg

 

 

 

animatedgifwithroundshiftknob.gif

 

And there we have the only 6 speed equipped, 4AG powered AE71 in existence....

 

 

 

 

More to come..... :D

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  • 10 months later...

Wow... I kinda dropped the ball..... :wasted:

 

 

 

 

 

Oh.... that timeslip... was with the 5 speed and my car was still equipped with the original highway gearing - 3.58 final drive!!! :no:

 

 

 

Now... not only add in a 6 speed with oh so better ratios... but the final plan also incorporates running a 3.9 final drive as well!

 

Back when I ran the 15.77, I didn't give much thought to it... but the 6 speed and shorter gear might even allow ME to get her into the 14s???

 

 

 

 

BUUUT... with the S series 3.58 final drive... in reality... I don't need any gears beyond the first 4 8|

 

 

Sooooooo... its time to swap in a final drive more appropriate. Here is Richmond Racing's 3.9 T series diff...... (originally for Legends/Dwarf cars) fitted into a GT-S housing.

 

Diffswap2_zpsab924625.jpg

 

The Richmond is assembled with zenki spider gears... so zenki axles are the call. The emergency brake cables need a fabricated bracket on the driverside(thank you Jesse), and a zip tie around the axle hop line mount to secure the passenger side cable.

 

 

Now... along with the diff, I have to swap in a different brake proportioning valve, because instead of drum brakes... I'm now running rear discs.

 

Diffswap3_zps6adfc46f.jpg

 

 

Doing some research All USA AE86 drum brake cars use valve 22040, while the GT-S uses valve 12040. I then look up my car, and low and behold, the valve is the same as a drum brake AE86 - 22040. So even though I have a different master cylinder, AND the proportioning valve is mounted slightly lower, the lines will not have to be customized to fit the GT-S valve! So I remove the drum brake valve, and swap in the GT-S valve. Then I go about bleeding the brakes. At this point brake bleeding can be a REAL pain... because there is no longer any fluid in the master OR the proportioning valve... so I go about palm bleeding. What is palm bleeding??? You fill the master most of the way, and you put your palm over the reservoir and work your hand like you would a toilet plunger.... This slowly pumps the fluid through the master, and the proportioning valve allowing me to circulate the fluid without having to pump the brake pedal, or use a power bleeder.

 

 

All new TRD suspension bushings will tighten up the whole rear end keeping the axle properly placed under the back of the car. Many folks don't know but there is a right way... and a wrong way to install TRD suspension bushings.......

 

TRDbushinginstall2.jpg

 

Care was used to install the bushings correctly.

 

More to come....... :D

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3.9 is still tall... I suppose you've worked out the rpm you'll be pulling most of the time, but a 4.1 is pretty common here, 4.3 for around town, and Steve runs a 4.8 in his 4AGE road car.

 

"Tall" can be relative.... when I had my AE86, I used a Richmond 4.10, but that was still rowing the T50. Part of the reason I went with the 3.9, was the J160's 1st gear of 3.874. The T50 uses a 3.587 1st gear. So with the J160 first, I effectively have a very similar 1st gear/final drive ratio as someone running a 4.30 with their T50 1st. In essence the 3.8 first, and the 3.9 final are like keeping the 4.30, and adding an extra tall O/D.

 

As to highway speeds, I'm turning about 3400 @ 70 mph, which delivers about 33mpg. At 3400, I'm already in the torque band where it is at, or over 100#/ft at the wheels(this begins at about 3300), and I can smoothly accelerate from there in top gear.

 

so yeah... it all fits together nicely

 

a short ride in my car - apologies for picture quality, but audio is rather nice :) -

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I had paid 2 tuners... so I was pretty much broke at this point, but encouraged because I could now drive the car. I leaned on my friend Marshall @ Jackson Autosport(another friend, this one an aftermarket managment GURU), and he sent me an ignition MAP to plug in and try to use...

 

It was better... still a few hiccups, but I could drive and enjoy her burnrubber.gif

 

 

 

The FJO system is self learning when it comes to fuel maps... you set the basic parameters, and then get the initial map set close... based on the settings and the injectors. Unless the two engines are literally identical, different engine will have slightly unique fuel map based on the engines need.

 

The FJO system looks at the wideband oxygen sensor, looks at its basic parameters, and adjusts fuel based on the VE and need of the engine.

 

 

 

 

More to come...... :D

 

 

 

 

Over a 2 year period from 2012-2014 I had driven Surreptitious less than 1500 miles... a lot of this was because a certain tuning shop (in Hillsboro Oregon) had no idea how to properly set and program the FJO system. :down:

 

Shortly after I swapped in the 6 speed she went back for a "final" adjustment.

 

 

LONG STORY short.... once I got it back the last time.... I had to "fix" cam timing, (they had adjusted it to make their tune work...???) and swap in the earlier tune :bash:

 

 

Move ahead 2 years(Spring 2014)... Surreptitious goes to Loynings, and is tuned on their steady state dyno. She is "tuned" in each rpm band for power. Off to DEQ(emissions testing) and fails.... 1100 HC, 5.0 CO.

 

I bring her back in, they make a few adjustments, I go back to DEQ... 214 HC, 0.447 CO - She passes :party:

 

and no new cat required this time.... :thumbsup:

 

 

Now as far as performance.... She idles...(between 1000 and 1100) she idles and doesn't stall when coming to a stop... she idles with all the installed electrical draws on (lights, wipers, heater fan, 100 watt fog lamps) she even idled with the cooling fan on @ the inspection station without stalling or stumbling while the test was being performed...

 

This tune is only a few days old... but so far it has inspired some new confidence...

 

 

so uhh...after the new tune....whats the power look like :) ?

 

what was never a problem... she always (with one exception) planted great power...

 

What is odd... I'm only running 2 BTDC degrees of ignition timing...

 

 

OPINION:

They did the reverse of what I thought to be needed..... I figured more timing (not less) would make it want to idle up.... What they did was feed in the less timing and they opened up the throttle plate a touch. With the throttle plate open' date=' this lowers the pressure in the manifold... and so when there is a change like vacuum being drawn to run the brakes... or a alternator puts a load on the system there is less pressure change in the manifold... less pressure change, less unstable idle.... and so it idles pretty well under loads now.

 

 

The above is the change after the failed inspection....

 

[u']BEFORE[/u] the failed inspection... They did a lot of changes in the map... the fuel map especially. If you remember the 2nd tuning shop had set the original fuel map as best they could... but with a 6mm hole in the manifold he did the best he could. Once I found the hole, and fixed it I DEPENDED on the self learning feature to "fix" the fuel map. Well... now she has a dedicated fuel map built on a steady state dyno to keep AFRs(between 12.5 and 13) in the peak range to make power, and protect the "fragile" OEM cast pistons from detonation.

 

 

So, back to the car.... with my new found trust in her overall character... and to signify her change from temperamental toy :( ... into reliable, dependable toy :)

 

She gets her first new set of wipers in over 5 years a set of Anco Aero Advantage..... Why??

 

0.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Now that she runs well besides wipers working, I felt it is time to finish up the parking brake.

 

 

 

The emergency brake cables need a fabricated bracket on the driverside(thank you Jesse)' date=' and a zip tie around the axle hop line mount to secure the passenger side cable.

[/quote']

 

Back when the GTS diff went in we had been successful in finding mounting points for the heavy cables... but the small bracket inside the trans tunnel used to support the front where they come together was about 1" too far forward to actually be useful...

 

 

so today we (Jesse and I) removed the bracket from its original location, reversed its position - to make mounting in the new location easier...

 

movedbrakecablesupportbracket_zps817f546e.jpg

 

 

Now that the cables are supported front and rear, I can finish up with the handle.

 

Now that the gear lever is 5" further back' date=' the hand brake is close, uncomfortably close... So I shorten the hand brake handle to compensate

 

[img']http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j143/oldeskewltoy/ae71/handbrakeshortened.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

 

 

OR... I can figure a way to lengthen the single cable about 3/4" to fit.

 

parkbrakeextended2panel_zpsd8f680bd.jpg

 

I should have kept the lengthening to 3/4"' date=' I did about 1 1/4"(length of threads) and although it now works, I have little room left for further adjustment...

 

If/when that time occurs that it is out of adjustment, I'll cut off the bindings and place the two sections a bit tighter together...

 

but for now... we have a working parking brake.....

 

[img']http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j143/oldeskewltoy/ae71/handbrakefitted_zps5310a07e.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

 

more to come..... :yes:

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Looks great. In the Australian Market we have found that sv21 or sv10 camry handbrake centre cables are a bit longer as are jdm ae86.

 

thank you.... JDM AE86 is not likely to happen, but 1st, and 2nd gen Camry shouldn't be a problem..... would you happen to know now MUCH longer they are???

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  • 2 months later...

Wow... been quite a long time since an update....

 

about 10 months back I purchased some new shoes... the old Genral Exclaims were crap when new, and weren't any better 5 years later... So some BF Goodrich Comp2 tires were the call....

 

Goodrich_tires_2015_smaller.jpg

 

 

 

also during the summer I was trolling Yahoo Japan and I found used OEM front mud flaps :rocknroll:

 

yahoo_Japan_front_mud_flaps.jpg

 

The red arrows point to trim cutout molded into the flap.

 

 

More recently she went back through vehicle emissions testing - and failed This has always been a challenge for me and my car because there isn't a lot of support to assist in tuning the FJO management system. It was around for a few years, but FJO was bought out by Holley, and the support ended there..... :down:

 

 

But I have been SLOWLY learning the system with a few other friends who are lending me moral and actual support. The first thing we learned was we could compensate for electrical loads. When the cooling fan comes on, a degree of ignition advance is triggered. Along with the cooling fan trigger, we have also added ignition as voltage drops (down to about 10 volts), this is done progressively beginning at 12.0 volts. This wasn't needed for emissions testing, but it is useful to have the engine compensate for the electrical loads.

 

So back to emissions.... I went through and although no where near as "dirty" as she was 2 years ago, she still failed - 470ppm HC, and 1.3% of CO. The minimum specs here are 220HC and 1% CO. Now 2 years ago I spent a few hundred dollars and she barely squeaked through, but now knowing more about this system, a friend and I adjusted injector idle time down, and we changed the O2 readings from 13.5-14.2, up to 14.7-15.2. We then went back to the emissions check and she went straight through! Her numbers now - 110HC and .0556% CO. She is good and "clean" for another 2 years!

 

 

Finally... another odd bit pooped up on YJ... I believe I have just bought a true unobtainum unicorn..... what appears to be a REAL wood E7 Corolla steering wheel..... :wootjump:

 

 

original_leather_and_wooden_Corolla_steering_wheel_front_and_rear~0.jpg

 

 

 

more to come...... :D

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  • 6 months later...

I suspect you're not the lowered car type ;)

 

 

 

 

Got this pic a few years ago when my friend (in pic looking at other car) and I were out doing some tuning to increase fuel efficiency.

 

twin____.jpg

 

Front is a little bit lower, an inch maybe a tiny bit more, the rear is not lower, it might even bit a tiny bit taller.... providing a small forward rake to the car...... ;)

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

I try to be careful when it comes to accessorizing Surreptitious...  don't want her looking trashy...  So these became available....

quarter_panel_louvers_4.jpg


and I jumped on them... fit isn't bad...  

quarter_panel_louvers_3_panel.jpg

They are just propped in there for now, I'll need to come up with a method to mount them securely as the original mounts were not included


repairs????   

Was out running a few heads out to the machine shop and all of a sudden the blinkers slow to a crawl....  found the directional relay, and replaced it....  

a16bd7e2-a60f-4cb1-8832-c5e125b4ed28_1.9

Oh...  I also acquired(purchased) a new set of wheels....  15x6.5 +19 for the fronts, and 15x7 + 13 for the rears....   

SSR_Reverse_Mesh_staggered_set.jpg

should be here in about 2 weeks......
 

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