snot35 Posted November 12, 2014 Report Share Posted November 12, 2014 Was it difficult to fit the tacho? I have a similar issue, KE70 dash and a donor AE82 twin cam, so I might do this conversion :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldeskewltoy Posted November 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Was it difficult to fit the tacho? I have a similar issue, KE70 dash and a donor AE82 twin cam, so I might do this conversion :) Difficult is a tough description... in reality... no, but it did take all kinds of changes... and it took destroying the E7 tach assembly for parts to allow the newer tach to fit. BUT no re-wiring was required. **IF** you want, I can also do the swap for a small fee ($50 US) Since my friend has sent me the zenki cluster I've been debating re wiring that one as well... If I do the job again, I'd be happy to document it. In the mean time I did modify the AE82 tach face to fit inside the zenki cluster.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldeskewltoy Posted November 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 So... back to the build itself.... the body is mostly finished, and I have Mark, who is far more "electrically" inclined then I am doing the re-wire....... At this point there is a lot happening. Mark is wiring the chassis with the engine' date=' and transmission out of the car... but once the chassis is moderately wired the engine needs to go in so he can run the management wiring. [/quote'] Here is the new hook ups for the "new" tach... and Mark preparing the new harness to adapt to the original cluster The cutting board was my idea.... and so was this... the grommet is made by slitting 1/8" vac hose, and then running the slit around the metal opening.... nice, clean, and avoids any inadvertent damage to the harness. Routing the harness around the car.... Once Mark had gotten most of the chassis wired... it was time to put the engine in..... another friend... this one is a bit more shy .... say "Hi" to Jeff (left arm in upper left) The engine went in with little effort... and fewer photos Almost forgot....... the radiator and fan.... :lol: That radiator IS from an AE71.... but not mine... see my car was always a stick shift car. Because of it being a stick shift it had a single row radiator... which Toyota in their infinite wisdom... required one type/version radiator support. The AE71 radiator I'm using came from an AUTOMATIC equipped car. The automatic equipped cars used a dual row radiator to cope with the added heat of cooling the transmission, along with cooling the slightly higher loaded original engine - higher load placed on it by the auto transmission which always has some drag on the engine - even at idle - requiring additional cooling. And... as I alluded too in the paragraph above had its own radiator support :hammer: I adapted the automatic radiator to fit the stick shift car by creating 4 entirely new mounting points. Now my 4AGE should have more than adequate cooling... What is custom is the Sienna cooling fan... Yep Toyota Sienna minivan If you go back to the pic showing the engine and rad installed you can see the little tweaks we needed to do to make a 1996 minvan fan, fit a 1983 automatic equipped Corolla radiator. 1) note the cut sections to clear the rad, and 2) the tiny spot welds used to relocate a few of the mounting tabs. That radiator... now fitted with a fan that can pull air enough to cool a modern minivan... we should be pretty much good to go for cooling... More to come..... :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snot35 Posted November 13, 2014 Report Share Posted November 13, 2014 Thanks for the offer. That part of the project is a fair way down the line, there are a lot of other things to get working first, but I'll keep it in mind :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldeskewltoy Posted November 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 Thanks for the offer. That part of the project is a fair way down the line, there are a lot of other things to get working first, but I'll keep it in mind :) no problem.... I thought you might want it done sooner.... I expect to modify the zenki cluster sometime over this winter... I'll make sure I do a write up.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted November 14, 2014 Report Share Posted November 14, 2014 I did a bit of customising on my dash, probably not as much though :P Digital clock stopped working so I fitted a digital voltmeter in its place, and the charge light is now my CEL. Trying to keep it stock looking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldeskewltoy Posted November 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 assuming you kept the factory management... and then fitted to your E7? and the charge light is now my CEL. So with the cooling system well in hand and now requiring an electrical supply for that Sienna cooling fan... Mark begins to wire in the engine managment.... FJO Racing WAS a small company in Canada that built a mil spec management system known as the 341b. In January 2011' date=' FJO became a wholly owned subsidiary of Holley Performance Products. In early 2012 products under the FJO brand were discontinued and replaced by those already manufactured by FJO under the Holley and NOS brands. For a complete list of products please go to Holley.com[/quote'] Here are the specifications for the 341b version 2 - the biggest influence to my purchasing this unit was its all weather capabilities.... back in 2008 there were NOT as many middle range systems as there are today. Most management systems were either very pricey, or mega squirt... I wanted something far more reliable then the 2008 version of MS I purchased the system from Jackson Autosport (also in Canada). Part of the deal on the purchase was Jackson was to supply the harness, and all the parts needed to run the new management Things to note in the above photo.... the cam sensor mount(modified distributor), the crank sensor mount, and the OEM type crank pulley... but is single row... The single row crank pulley began life as a regular dual row, the outer row was machined off. The trigger wheel has a .1mm run out... pretty good to be that well centered. The system monitors both fuel and oil pressure and when programmed can shut the engine down if needed. Jackson Autosport also did a novel service for me... They built the harness in 2 halves. Each end properly pinned, with the only requirement was to install the harnesses and then cut wires to length and join. Note each wire end is labelled to ease assembly At first Mark was a little odd about this... but soon learned the method to Jackson's madness and the custom fitted harness went quickly. Mark had asked me if I wanted a "tucked" harness... I told him I wanted a harness that was neat and serviceable. As to those who think fitting 2 halves together might not be durable, or problem free, the internally glued heat shrink (seen on the turn signals) allows for a hermetically sealed connection with little chance of oxidation or decay over time. Part of the reason the harness was supplied as is was it had to do with where the ECU was going to be mounted. The AE71, being an old carbureted car originally, didn't have much more than a box to monitor emissions, the new ECU size was going to determine its location... and hence the reason for a 2 piece harness.... Where to mount a box that was 10 x 6 x 2??? Under the seat? What if it gets wet down there? In the glovebox? There isn't enough storage in this car as it is... unless I must use this space, I'd prefer not... besides I really don't want it in the box because that way the harness is flexing when the box is opened/closed... Finally... I found the PERFECT location... serviceable, away from most common forms of liquid intrusion and in a fixed location..... UNDER the heater duct work - using 2 large coarse threaded screws I put one end into the duct work joint, and the other end suspended from a mounting point higher up on the dash. As you can see... the passenger floor heater duct directs the flow below it, and so far it hasn't proven to be a problem with any passengers feet. The access port is hanging in the foreground, while the low ohm injector driver is mounted higher up on the firewall. So with the ECUs location now determined, we could now run the harness and determine its final length. The original harness had fit through a small hole (about 1 1/2" diameter) The new harness might fit through that BEFORE joining... but after the fact it wasn't likely to come out as easily. Mark and I jointly decided the wiring was going to need new access through the firewall... All Corollas of the era were somewhat prepared for accessories, take A/C. Well, my car didn't have A/C... but the A/C holes were unused (see black plugs infirewall behind the manifold) We removed the plugs and Dremel-ed out the metal between the 2 openings to make a larger opening so the new harness plugs would be able to pass through We now had access... but the cost was a big hole to fill in. I can't say I wasn't lucky building this car.... and here is where a bit of that luck paid off.... a young friend of mine (yep... more friends :D ) dragged me out to one of the local pick and pull yards to look for some parts for his car. It had been a few years since I just walked around a boneyard... well as he was stripping something or other for his car... I was looking for a solution to my hole.... and low and behold.. an old Honda Civic showed me what I needed.... I'm pretty sure this came from a Civic that was a non A/C car, and that plug was there to fill the gap. It almost looks OEM :worship: More to come..... :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldeskewltoy Posted November 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 The engine is in... the wiring is coming along well. Its time to begin to locate the other engine compartment components. Along with running sequential injection, I'm also running a wasted spark ignition. For the unknowing... "wasted spark" refers to the fact that each spark plug "fires" twice per 4 stroke revolutions, once at the typical time - when the air fuel charge is compressed, BUT also when the exhaust valve is open and the piston is coming up to expel the exhaust charge. Since there usually is nothing happening at this time the system is called "wasted spark" Here are the massive coils... GM type... but reworked by FJO it is placed in the first version of my handmade coil mount... ORIGINALLY... I had planned to mount the coils where the wiring harness came through... I'm glad I changed my mind... it is so perfect for the harness pass through.... so with the harness pass through now using the original idea for the coil mount, I had to find another location for the coils. The intake side of the engine is substantially cooler then the exhaust side, this small fact lends itself to not only the coil location... but ALL vital bits are on the passenger side (intake side) note the mounted MAP sensor behind the coils, and the custom placement of the fuel filter. The ignition wires are Magnecor 8.5mm resistor wires, the loom holders are from SAAB. There is even room for the charcoal canister What to do about air filtration? More friends... what else??? :thumbsup: This one is Kris... he is also an AE86 guy... but he is also into off road stuff and had this V6 Ranger that he no longer used the original air box... The Ranger uses a 2.9 liter V6... so from an air volume POV I should be ok using it for my 1.6 Not only does it fit neatly, but it also has a perfect location for the FJO air temp sensor. And with a little bit of Home Depot thrown-in... ....so the air box can collect the cooler air from directly behind the passenger headlamp. spark... MAP sensor... fuel.... and filtration.... Sharp of eye?? Can you see the radiator overflow port? See that it is pointing to the airbox? The only problem with using that airbox was I lost the original location for the overflow' date=' and washer fluid reservoirs. [img']http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j143/oldeskewltoy/ae71/overflowandwashertanks1.jpg[/img] At first I tried to separate them and find alternative locations... but that just didn't cut it..... so... upon another offer from my boneyarding friend... Johnny, I stumbled upon the solution... another Honda part... again from a Civic... Apologies in advance for the following photo... it was cobbled together and blown up a bit too much for clarity... but if you look closely you can see a bracket in the upper right fabricated from the Civic overflow mount and a bracket found at the boneyard... then welded together green arrow on left view, and upper right inset, and then purple view in right, and upper right inset And when fully plumbed in.... More to come...... :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 The intake side of the engine is substantially cooler then the exhaust side, this small fact lends itself to not only the coil location... but ALL vital bits are on the passenger side Ah, one great advantage you have over us... we have an accelerator, a brake booster, a brake master cyl, a steering column and a clutch m'cyl all crammed in there on your passenger's side... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldeskewltoy Posted November 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2014 Ah, one great advantage you have over us... we have an accelerator, a brake booster, a brake master cyl, a steering column and a clutch m'cyl all crammed in there on your passenger's side... BUT... that allows you to use any header available... those of us in LHD land are stuck trying to fit a header between the steering column and the frame rail some easy... some hard.... what is that old adage... "grass is greener on the other guys lawn" Ohhhh... I forgot... I promised a photo of David..... remember ALL the body modifications are his handy work..... Speaking about David's handy work.... I haven't yet shown you the rear end modifications. As I've already noted... I did have some luck with this project.... the replica FOHA spoiler on the front (remember FOHA, the Austrian aero company?). Well I managed to score(lucky part) a genuine FOHA rear lip(aka "ducktail") spoiler. and then you look at the behemoth bumper :yak: :yak: (sorry that ugly ass bumper requires 2 sets of barfers....) David took care of that as well.... utilizing the original bumper, the 6" padded extension(about 35#s) was removed to expose the steel structure underneath. He then made filet panels to enclose the original steel structure in a more tailored fit Before.... After.... Also worth noting the blacked out license plate lamps... chrome before, matt black now. More to come.... :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldeskewltoy Posted November 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Neat... clean... all it needs is a little something.... :popcorn: :popcorn: More to come...... :D If you looked carefully at this photo you'll see an oil cooler placed directly in the center opening. That oil cooler was just a prop.... It doesn't fit because a flat 2 row cooler interferes with the center hood support. What I needed to find was a curved cooler... something like this Above is an oil cooler typically used on motorcycles. I called Earl's and asked them if their curved coolers would work in a car' date=' they asked me for the engine size... and placement on the vehicle. Once they saw where it was going, and knew the engine size was 1606cc, the Earl's rep saw no reason it wouldn't work.... he was right it has worked beautifully for the past 3+ years. So now that I had a cooler... brackets are needed. Using aluminum plywood edging cut, bent, doubled up.... Some parts you get at the dealer... some parts you get in the aftermarket.... some parts you get at the junk yard, or a friends.... but some parts are just not available unless they are built expressly by, or for you. These are one of those parts... weighing in at under 4 ounces!!! [img']http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j143/oldeskewltoy/ae71/coolerbrackets.jpg[/img] The welding could be better, but they are structurally fine - and free beats paying! Oh... the holes(down on the bent end) are purposely shaped the way they are. Each allows some adjustment so that when I install the rivet nuts*, machine perfection isn't required. The holes, all of them, are designed to accept a 6mm(10mm wrench size) fastener. * - Rivet Nut... self-explanatory ...and here is the finished job. I forgot to take pics as I was doing this... and I wasn't going to disassemble it just to take pics! What you see in the above photo is one of the brackets double bolted to the front cross member. Here is the cooler no longer "supported" by lumber, or shop rags, but fully mounted with the brackets. Note the cooler hose is routed thru the grill support - can you see the custom grommet?? The hose mounted through the grill support will help somewhat in minimizing any frequency vibration that may occur, it is a nice snug vibration free mount. If you think the routing of the one hose is creative.... the routing through the firewall, and how that was finished goes a step beyond. Many cars of that era might be manufactured for many markets, and so some parts might be universal, and made to fit. The front radiator support is one of these parts. Note I used an unused pass though to get the oil cooler lines from the engine compartment to the front of the car where the cooler resides. What is unique, and creative.... I used a common sway bar bushing, split and carved to allow for a custom plug to isolate the cooler lines from any chance of rubbing on the radiator supports sheet metal. The tap off the engine is at the oil filter housing, I'm using a thermostatically controlled Mocal adapter. The lines "jump" to the inner frame rail... mounted with a "P" clip Along with the cooler the engine management monitors engine oil temp... and can shut the engine down if the oil temps get too hot :thumbsup: Now for the fuel system...... In 1983.... the only rwd Corolla with fuel injection... was not sold in the USA. Surreptitious began life as a carbureted 1.6, and so the fuel system was designed to accommodate carburetion... NOT efi. More luck... the AE86 GTS was the first rwd Corolla to have fuel injection, and as with quite a few other parts the fuel tanks are VERY similar to the earlier E7 cars. Surreptitious's original fuel tank A replacement/donor from an AE86 GTS Why did I do it this way? Why not just mount an inline pump and be done with it? The original fuel system was designed for an engine producing 80hp(+ or -)... not more than twice that much. The fuel system was going to need more than an inline pump, it was going to need a larger diameter line. If you look carefully at the top of both tanks you can see the efi output line is more substantial then any of the carb based lines. Now for some "bad" luck. As much as Surreptitious is similar to an AE86... I bound squarely into, "Nope... not quite". The fuel lines, along with the brake line run the length of the car. All the lines are bound together inside metal clamps. Since the cars are so similar just swap them all............ Nope... not quite. The brake tube terminus for both cars is on the fire wall... but for some reason, the E7 tube mounts in 180 degrees differently then the AE86 tube. We, Jeff the shy guy from earlier, and I disassemble the line assemblies, we remove the AE86 brake line and incorporate the AE71 brake line into the AE86 fuel lines, then mounting them all where they were mounted originally. That wasn't the only problem to overcome... the original tank has a flexible filler neck, while the GTS tank has a hard pipe filler.... and since this is the bad news section of this post... the two filler necks are NOT swappable... the bolt pattern and overall diameter just don't allow swapping the necks. So... some "neck surgery" by David... ;) The filler neck was cut across the underside of the curve, and it was "opened" up and a small wedge of steel was welded changing the angle of the filler neck so it would fit.... Once the original filler neck upper mount was cut away... the EFI cap is neatly nestled behind the fuel door and now that the AE86 EFI lines are incorporated, a slight change in the pressure line terminus allows for a "floating mount" away from the inner fender allowing more space for other needed components More to come....... :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 Nice bit of home engineering there! Do you think here is a downside of running an oil cooler? Extra drag on the flow resulting in less flow or pressure? Can you get a larger oil pump if needed? The rear bumper is nice, we're going to do the same with the rally car. It improved the look of the Celcia a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snot35 Posted November 19, 2014 Report Share Posted November 19, 2014 (edited) I'm pretty sure all Aussie 4AGE cars had oil coolers, but they are set to open above a certain pressure instead of by temperature. I'd like to change my setup to thermo controlled at some stage. I guess Toyota didn't see a problem with fitting them, so maybe it doesn't have a huge down side? I don't believe there are larger pumps available for the 4AGE. And I echo the comments on the bumper, subtle change but vastly better :) Oh, and thanks for the fuel system details oldskewl! This is a bridge I have to cross soon. Currently I have an external EFI pump, but the line sizes do bug me. People claim they don't have problems with the carb sized lines, but I wonder about their limits. Edited November 19, 2014 by snot35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldeskewltoy Posted November 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 (edited) As far as the oil cooler, the stock cooler (imho) isn't much of a cooler since the "cooled" oil is dumped back into the HOT oil pan! As far as enough oil pressure... I've put over 11,000 miles on her so far with no oil related issues.... but in the same breath, I've yet to take her to a full track day. She has been "tuned" on 3 different dynos... and dyno tuning can be VERY hard on an engine, especially if it is a load-able dyno - meaning the operator can increase the load while "driving" so the engine can be forced to hold an rpm even while at W.O.T. There are no larger pumps for the 4AG... Toda makes a harder set of gears (for use @ and above 8500-9000), but the only way to get MORE oil... is using a dry sump. The fuel line sizes are likely ok... the AE86 EFI tank also has baffles inside, minimize fuel being drawn away from the pick up. Also I'm using a fuel pump from an Acura(American Honda) Integra (mid 1990s). This fuel pump delivers about 20% more fuel, enough to supply fuel, yet not so large as to overly circulate fuel like a Walbro 255 would. The car now has an engine(with oil cooler), wiring, a fuel system, a management system but as of yet there isn't a driveline - transmission... :hammer: Both the AE86 and the AE71 came with Toyota's T50 5 speed transmission, so whats the big deal in the driveline you might be asking? For now the big deal is setting up the hydraulics for the driveline. In a later(still too come) post there is a LOT more change. The Ae71 comes with clutch fork access on the driverside of the bell, while the later GT-S used the passenger side of the bell. The factory switched sides because the engine went from the exhaust on the passenger side for the single cam engine to the exhaust on the driverside on the dual cam one, so Toyota switched sides. I now had a dual cam and so the exhaust, and clutch slave are on the same side All I had to do was swap to a GT-S bell and change the plumbing to GT-S type... BUT.... the entire engine management wiring is now roughly in the area that the new clutch line would need to follow... not desirable. ... LESS desirable... a hydraulic line touching the exhaust! (similar to this) :wtf: Another full custom solution.... :thumbsup: I retained the 4AC slave cylinder, but changed the clutch plumbing. Instead of crossing from the frame rail, I re-designed the lines. First I went and got new hardline and bent it similar to the GT-S line, but stopped it on the driverside, and dropped it straight down. Above photo shows the original soft line line attached to the new hard line. Once I had a hard line, I contacted Stuart @ TechnaFit. I asked him if he thought I could change the soft line from a straight thread in to a banjo type mount. He saw no reason I couldn't mount the soft line with a banjo bolt, and so I had him make me a custom soft line This is a great pic because it shows the line actually runs behind the bellhousing, and so is far away from interfering with anything.... Even down here... there is nearly 3" of room between the headers and the top of the banjo bolt The rest is just getting the clutch installed and aligned... and install the transmission and driveshaft. More to come...... :D Edited November 20, 2014 by oldeskewltoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snot35 Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 I like the clutch line solution. Shame more people don't do it that way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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