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JimmyMelbs

1984 Ae71 Cs-X Stalling Problem

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Did as you suggested and this was the result.

Took ages to start and then I realised the stove pipe wasn't connected since last nigh so reattached and it started. Barely. When I did finally get it running it was cause I wasn't depressing the accelerator.

After a couple minutes idle the radiator started to look like it was gonna boil over which it did after a few minutes although my temp in car registered nothing. After pressing accelerator fuel window in carby dropped to almost empty and the radiator level also dropped until another few minutes then it got all foamy and boiled over again.

Is this what a normal radiator would do?

This was a brand new unit installed less than a month ago.

Could this be part of my problem or a glimpse at something bigger that I haven't even thought of yet?

Ideas?

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Arrgh!

 

OK, was the water warm when it boiled over? I see the temp gauge hasn't moved. I would expect quite a lot to boil over with big bubbles, maybe an eggcup to half a teacup in the first minute while it is still cold if the head gasket was leaking. The tiny little foamy ones are Ok. It is normal for it to fill right up or overflow a little at idle, then have the level go down when you accelerate, & then come back up when you take your foot off. So hopefully the gasket is fine.

 

Should my radiator be red hot to the touch after just a 2 min drive around the block and the top hose feel swollen?

That is Ok so long as your temp gauge shows its warm. The motor should warm up in a couple of minutes if your themostat is doing its job. You can check your gauge by earthing out the lead from the sensor with the ignition on. The gauge should read full hot when it goes to earth. Then in normal running it should read about 1/3 up the dial. The radiator will be at 80deg or more in normal running, so you can't keep your hand on it.

 

Now, fuel-

Something is stopping fuel getting into the carb. So, it starts in the tank, which is clean, and I assume you blew the fuel lines out too. New fuel filter so that isn't blocked, and the fuel gets to the pump.

 

The pump has to suck correctly, and quite separately it has to pump correctly, there is a chamber and a valve for each function inside the pump. If either valve is leaking from a little dirt under it the pump will work but perform badly. Swapping pumps will tell. You can find how much fuel the pump should put out at cranking speed in mls/minute somewhere if you're lucky, and measure that. The same with a fuel pressure gauge like TRDKE70 said, that will tell you how well the pump is working. If another pump doesn't solve it then there is only one thing left.

 

The last component is the carb. There is a fuel level control that accepts the fuel from the pump and stops it at a certain level, the needle and seat arrangement. Take the top off the carb and check the needle and seat again, making sure it can't get stuck upwards and it has the right height setting when the needle closes. I haven't overhauled an Aisin, but for Weber DCOEs there is a distance (10mm odd) between the float and the top of the carb when the needle closes, and a maximum distance it is allowed to drop.

 

It would give you your problem if the needle was jamming shut for some reason. I thought it might have had dirt under it and was flooding the carb, but you have just watched it empty itself. While you are there, see if there is a little gauze filter where the fuel goes into the carb. If there is make sure it is clean. Webers have them.

 

I'm suspicious of the pump....

Edited by altezzaclub

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I have also been told it is the pump so I am buying another one this week to see if this fixes the problem, fingers crossed! The thermostat never moves no matter how long I drive it for it has never got to warm or hot.. this could be a problem? Easy to replace? Will update when the new filter arrives - thanks again for all your helpful input and time!!

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I drive it for it has never got to warm or hot.. this could be a problem?

 

Yes, but not related to the stalling I think. it will wear the motor faster. Pop it out and put it in a pan of water and boil it. You should see it open right up and close as it cools. It may be working but your sensor or gauge might be not working so you can't see it reading. Check the t'stat, check the gauge by shorting it out, & check the sensor with a multimeter to read the ohms resistance in it.

 

cheers

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On the lower radiator hose as it goes into the block.

 

A pain, the 4A motors are unusual in having the thermostat on the lower hose and not on the upper one at the head.

 

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So after all that and Brought a replacement fuel pump as I was pulling the hoses off to install there was a cracked hose and a small peice of rubber was trapped inside the inlet on the fuel resevoir which is between the pump and carby..

Blew it out and it seems to be fine. Trimmed the cracked ends off the hoses so hopefully all is fine for now :)

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Thats the one! Should have realised it was simple - but no problem, got to know my engine more and glad for all your input mate!

My thermostat is now working also so all seems good! Except for a whine in my gearbox -_-

can't expect much from a car thats 2 years older than myself though hey!

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Try screwing the mixture screw in and out half a turn to get the smoothest fastest idle when its warm some day, and then set the idle speed once you have the mixture happy.

 

I assume you did all the other tune-up things like ignition timimg/tappets/plugs/plug leads resistance in the initial major service.

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Corollafan it was doing this after a full service. maybe the mechanic missed a few things? will adjust the idle screw and see if that helps.

maybe i need to fork out more $ for a proper service - dude that did it did it at home and i got no reciepts or proof of what was/wasnt done

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