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Tivo The Zze123 Daily Tracker


camerondownunder88

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Greenmac Yeah the new corolla doesnt have the "old SKool cool" factor. I sold my KE11 to get this while thsi thing beats the pants off the KE11 in speed and handeling EVERY DAY driving the KE11 to work sicnce I drive so far id get looks questions and more it was a fun cruiser.

 

But not having a good place to work on cars pushed me to get this as for now it was less maintenance than the KE11. But I do miss the KE11 Id still drive an old KE daily if I could.

 

But oil issues these things are known for. When on the track I add an extra 350 ish mL of oil to the sump as I still run stock sump and with slicks on don't want to lose oil or cause pump to suck air. SO I over fill it a bit.

 

But You should keep your rolla and get a snail on it :)

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UPDATES:

So This weekend I did a few small things on car between doing uni work.

 

1. Water Pump

The pump on the car was slowly starting to drip red coolant :down:

So I had a new OEM pump to swap on. So didn't really take pictures just did it and added brand new OEM Toyota Red coolant also so system is all good to go.

 

So if you look at the part numbers for water pumps for the ZZE123 or 2zzge motor there was a change in the pump and a Toyota revised the design. The original pump ran a metal pressed impeller. The later ones run a plastic impeller that is moulded with more vanes and better shape and also sits closer to the block so there is less "slip" over the top of the vanes of water as it is pumping. Thus making pump more efficient.

So With pump removed and another old dead pump I have here is a shot for those at home to see difference:

post-1811-0-33385800-1440926820_thumb.jpg

 

This pump being more efficient will need to be spun slower and thus sapping less power from the crank SO......I shall invest in an under drive pulley soon to really get more benifit from the pump.

 

2. Spare Engine

So since I track this car I have decided it wont be a brutally fast track car and daily.....due to weight etc.... BUT what I do want is reliability so I can go to the track enjoy a few races come home with parts still in my engine.

So I had been looking around for a spare engine to buy to totally rebuild to make a race motor so once built I can drive in swap motor drive out with race motor with minimal down time.

So While keeping eyes open for a spare I came across this motor. WAS DIRT CHEAP...why....Engine had thrown a rod. Now I risked it as block may have been good but 2zz are known for when a rod goes it flies around and chops the block in half.....Well this one has some large internal chunks removed and can't be sleeved so thus block is dead.....BUT

I have got MANY MANY MANY MANY good parts to start building up race motor. Just need to track down a good block.

So picture below of spare engine I mounted on engine stand:

post-1811-0-94822600-1440927184_thumb.jpg

Now I havent snapped internal photos but I will slowly up load them in a tear down thread for this car so people can see what they might get/find if they buy a blown 2zz.

 

Well that was all for the weekend till next time.....

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UPDATES WHEEEELLLLSSSS:

So In the back ground of my spare engine in last thread you can see a tire stand I got. I saw this on sale the other day and though hey I need one of them well two really to hold all my wheels and that and make work shop cleaner so I bought two got them home and threw them together :)

 

Pic:

post-1811-0-15754400-1441414363_thumb.jpg

 

So before I put my stock rims on the stand they were heavily gutter rashed on one and a bit shitty. So I decided to get the files out and give them a cleanup. I got all the lips nice and scratch free and polished. I then removed all the tire weights and goo and then degreased them and then got a paint pen touch up device and re-painted the lip of the rims. Came up quite good. I then got some nice thick plastic bags and wrapped each rim stacked on one stand and pushed into corner so if I need stock rims they are ready to use in a hurry clean dust free and ready to roll. I also acid cleaned and chassed the stock wheel nuts and bagged them as new rims I had to go to a different nut.

So few pictures below:

 

Sorry for shitty phone pics.

Before

post-1811-0-61941800-1441414532_thumb.jpg

 

Mid File:

post-1811-0-06596500-1441414568_thumb.jpg

 

And good old me didn't take a photo of the rims finished cleaned and painted so we will all have to use our brains..lol

 

So now your thinking if the stock wheels are off car what did he put on....

 

Well other day I was told of a set of rims + tires the correct size/offset and stud pattern for this car a young guy didn't want as he bought another set of rims for his car. So I went for a look they were a set of Rota mini lite wheels with chrome lip metallic grey centre. They were wrapped in Bridgestone RE002 performance tires and one needed to be replaced rest were still ok. SO made a nice low ball offer thinking ah Ill be sent home...BAM SOLD...the kid needed money...SO I got a set of wheels and tires for less than the cost of TWO new RE002 tires them self so got them home replaced the one bald tire and cleaned them up got some rings for the hub and slipped them on:

 

post-1811-0-49752600-1441415624_thumb.jpg

 

Above photo was taken day before I had to use car for mates wedding so was good timing got new rims car all clean and did a wedding. Car looked flash.

 

Now to fit these wheels to a sportivo. The Toyota factory wheel studs are SHORT... Leaves about 3 threads that actually engage on the nuts. So I bought a set of wheel studs that were longer and fitted them. Was a easy job on the rear with hydraulic press straight in no issues NICE. Fronts however MAN O MAN due to length was hard to slip in then to press them in as didn't want to remove the hubs. But got them on.

 

And I then went an got a multi colour chrome nut so they are gold, blue, purple etc look cool. BUT I didn't get aluminium nuts. These flog out and are DANGEROUS so they are a nice steel nut so safe for track use :) Phone flash kinda doesnt show colour well but purple, blue, green, gold and more...

 

post-1811-0-94531000-1442392699_thumb.jpg

 

Well till later today out to do more tinkering on car.

Edited by camerondownunder88
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Agreed. Car is looking great Cameron. I love old cars, but you can't beat a modern car for turn key reliability when you have somewhere to go.

 

Have you still got the KE15? Would be a hell of a shock slipping back into that after a while in the ZZE

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UPDATES: REAR SUSPENSION

So thsi car is known for its horrible rear end. Even though being FWD the rear wheels purely hold the rear number plate off the ground the rear end is...floppy...

 

So as per normal always keeping my eyes open for parts and BAM! Find at auction a factory rear TRD strut bad for this car.....BUY BUY BUY....Came with no instructions but a few taps away on google found the TRD installation manual with templates to cut trims and I was away.

 

Gave me a good excuse to clean my car out a bit. Below is a photo of a packet of gum I found wedged right down inside rear guard....Who knows how long thats been there :S

 

post-1811-0-17161600-1442392974_thumb.jpg

 

So Off I went and First things first the boot. The bar goes here:

 

post-1811-0-77481100-1442393058_thumb.jpg

 

Secondly now to remove floor and tools and trays from boot floor and cover tray from behind seats:

 

post-1811-0-90727500-1442393108_thumb.jpg

 

After that you then have to go around to base of the front side of passenger seats and flip them up to gain access to lower bolts of side lumbar supports:

Seats up:

post-1811-0-81007700-1442393174_thumb.jpg

Bolt on bottom of side supports This bolt gets seat belt out the way which needs to come off and then seat support comes out after it:

 

post-1811-0-15146900-1442393240_thumb.jpg

 

Seat Cushion off:

 

post-1811-0-33997000-1442393412_thumb.jpg

 

Once off side wall of boot unclips and swings away:

 

post-1811-0-49511800-1442393457_thumb.jpg

 

Find and extract gum here....

 

Then the two bolts that hold seat belt reels in place is where TRD backets go:

 

post-1811-0-09027500-1442393519_thumb.jpg

 

So started getting dark phone camera was now suffering so bolt in bar. Now I did this by putting bar in got brackets square and good then nipped...Then removed centre of bar slipped trims on over holes I cut in them and bam put bar in pannels back on do all in reverse again:

 

post-1811-0-09055800-1442393591_thumb.jpg

 

Bar and trim in place. I let kniofe slip here need heat gun to melt out score mark:

post-1811-0-01295700-1442393672_thumb.jpg

 

And got dark but FINISHED:

post-1811-0-24833400-1442393708_thumb.jpg

 

And Bar before install:

post-1811-0-43015900-1442393727_thumb.jpg

 

So took for a drive and SUCK ME SIDEWAYS the improvement was HUGE....At first had to get used to cornering all again but man o man 100% improvment in all aspects of cornering.... MUST HAVE 10/10 should get for your zze...

 

Happy motoring peeps

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  • 2 weeks later...

Updates:

Short one today:

 

So this arrived from Japan:

 

post-1811-0-96306000-1443511979_thumb.jpg

 

It is a Laile Front Performance Bar/brace.

 

Was easy as to install. Jacked car took out cross member bolt and bolt to front radator pannel and tighten.

 

Took for a quick drive noticeable change in cornering turn in seems more precise.

 

Again dirty hands so I never snapped a photo of items on car. Ill do that on weekend after I give it a clean...

 

Till next update.

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  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATES:

When this car was purchased the original owner had installed a new battery. Problem was it was the size UP on what car should have. Physical size not much bigger but jammed in and I threw it on scales to find it was a WHOPPING 18KG of LEAD YUK!!!....

 

So quickest way to get better lap times is to drop weight. Battery is a good place to start.

 

So I started looking around at race car light weight lead acid batteries....Still expensive and old technology.

 

So I started looking at LiPo batteries :) Well got hooked. At first was put off as some require external circuits and special ways ot charge and to much dicking around.

 

Then I came accross a brand of battery that puts all that IN the battery and a circuit to monitor battery levels and cut it off if to low and control charge rate etc.

 

So I started looking into a size to fit car. I found when Looking at LiPo batteries the CCA rating can be HUGE...Yet the Amp Hr is quite low....

 

Also if car is let sit for a few days can go dead flat :(

 

So I did some tinkering and maths and looked at how often I drove, Electrical usage in car and more. And decided to get a 1000CCA 27A/hr LiPo battery.

 

MAN O MAN this thing is LIGHT.....

 

900grams...Yes under 1KG....

 

Size ah yeah SMALL.....about a 1/4 of the size of a lead acid battery.

 

So when going to install I also found original owner REMOVED the battery tray for this car and battery was floating sitting on part of car and pipe work :(

 

So I went about sourced a battery tray and the trays Plastic cover.

 

This was sourced and a RICE spec aluminium battery clamp was also sourced.

 

While doing this I also got a hold of two new earht leads of larger gauge and better quallity and ran them to the earth points on the car.

 

After all this car seemed to crank a lot better :)

 

So more than happy with this battery best mod so far id say purely cause of massive weight drop and more efficient this thing charges SUPER fast compaired to a lead acid so Alternator doesnt have to work as much after cranking to get power levels back up.

 

When fitting battery in photos you can see how CONVALUDED the air inlet is to a 2zz powered corolla. The air inlet is up behind head light it then wraps down around under in into front bar comes up under fuse box into air filter housing then into another pipe down to manifold......Thants got to be changed soon....Who designed that???

 

So few pictures below:

 

Extra Earth Down To Gearbox:

post-1811-0-13446800-1444999538_thumb.jpg

 

New Battery and Clamp in:

post-1811-0-28758300-1444999619_thumb.jpg

 

New battery another Angle:

post-1811-0-59775700-1444999677_thumb.jpg

 

So thats All I did this arvo possibly do more tomorrow in study break and have more updates then.

 

 

Happy Motoring.

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UPDATES - Front Strut Brace and more

So Purchased my self a factory TRD strut brace for the tivo. Simple easy to install. Front of these cars are pretty good so wasnt a HUGE WOW change in handeling characteristc but definate change after driving around all weekend.

 

You will also note from photos I added a celica style 2zz engine cover. Much nicer I think.

 

Before:

post-1811-0-87438500-1445752467_thumb.jpg

 

After

post-1811-0-22218700-1445752509_thumb.jpg

 

After this mod I though I should also do some general maintenance on the car. These are known for spitting out lift bolts and having issues so I though since I had not done it since buying car Id change the lift bolts. Piss easy 15min job IF they arent broken. Mine were like new so this car has probably seen VERY little use on lift....well till I owned it hahah

 

Engine is regularly serviced by me 5000km. Before that must have been done regularly also as engine is CLEAN inside.

post-1811-0-49492200-1445752660_thumb.jpg

 

post-1811-0-08356000-1445752682_thumb.jpg

 

Below is removed lift bolt:

post-1811-0-51106900-1445752722_thumb.jpg

 

Well thats all folks. Enjoy.

 

P.S. Greenmac80 I see you saw what I had writen about rear bar. If you want a quick one jsut get soem box steel and make your own but BEST change erver from any chassis bars so far well worth it.

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