Oil Filter......

[Chingy]

Hi Colin,

Have just looked at your Starlet build on your facebook link, and am more than impressed by your attention to detail, and deep pockets. You are obviously a perfectionist.

 

I was wondering have you done anything special with the lubrication system, as you obviously have a serious investment in this amazing retro KP61 ?

 

Rob is right regarding the use of smaller filter cartridges to reduce oil pressure delays on cold starts, which I would assume are are common in the UK.

 

There is probably more wear takes place in an engine during a cold start, than takes place for the whole rest of the driving day.

 

That's why taxis, which do constant shift work, where the engine rarely cools down, obtain such long engine lives.

 

The one thing that always concerned me was the first start of a new reconditioned engine. Cold start, empty oil filter, empty oil lubrication galleries. I've always reassembled engines very "wet", and then spun the engine over on the starter motor for a minute or so, with no plugs in, so there is no compression. Then in with the plugs, and hit the starter.

 

I've not gone to a supplementary bypass oil filter system, like they have in aero engines.

 

 

However, I have Araldited a rare earth magnet into my 4K & 5K sump plugs such that it sticks out a bit into the sump, and have always been amazed at oil change time, as to how much fine metal is attached. I figure what gets caught by the magnet, makes less work for the filter.

 

Cheers Banjo

 

Thanks Banjo, much appreciated, Starlets are very rare over here so wanted to try and keep it as original as possible but it has been a challenge with sourcing parts from all over the globe. But always found great experience and advice here.

 

The full engine transplant has taken place with only 3 hole drilled for the rad everything else has used or we have had fabricated as stock.

 

Nothing out of the ordinary with the oil system, usual shim of the new oil pump, baffle fitted in the sump and using redline racing 40w oil which has a 2200 zinc content and a couple of guages.

 

The first start up we did exactly as you have described, all components in the engine were built with engine builders oil, new pump was packed before installation. First start up, plugs out and turned over till pressure was up. I have a defi oil pressure and temp guage. On running in oil, oil pressure is built up as soon as engine is turned over. I am seeing 5 bar on cold star up dropping down as she warms up.

 

Glad you like her, exhaust being finished tomorrow, tappets checked and off to the rolling road in 2 weeks for carb set up

[Chingy]

The Ryco technical paper describing their syphoning vavle, in this thread, is dated May 2007, (nearly 8 years ago) which infers the anti-drain, or non return valve, was present in their products, long before that. However, as Ryco, the company, has it's roots in filters back to the 1936-1940 period, I suppose that is relatively recent.

 

I'd be interested to know whether anyone on Rollaclub, has ever fitted an auxillary external oil pump, to a K series engine, just recirculating sump oil through an external high quality supplementary 2-3 micron oil filter ?

 

This thought occurred to me, when I picked up a 5K recently, and found it had a oil level switch in the sump, which I'd never seen on a K series engine before.

 

 

Also about to do a full recondition on a 5K engine. I am doing some research, as to whether I should/could use a very high quality synthetic oil from day one. Has anyone used a synthetic oil in a reconditioned K series engine, and what were the results ?

 

Cheers Banjo

 

Banjo I will be running this due to its high zinc content

 

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=15&pcid=1

 

Will let you know how I get on, cheers

[KO 10]

G'day sorry to change the main subject but seeing as there is some good info about oils I'd like to ask what the best oil is for a ke70 5speed box ??

The car is a ke10 with a 4k and is a dedicated race car and just been put back together after 10 years or so

 

[coln72]

As its a race only car, you could use something thinner than recommended to reduce the parasitic drag of the oil. Or add ATF as well as gear oil.

[KO 10]

I've been recommended 75/85