Jansku99

5K Oem Solid Lifters And Oil Feed?

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Hi!

 

I have "Twin-Squish" 5K with hydraulic Lifters. I bought 13751-61020 OEM lifters from Toyota dealership. Now I'm wondering that they have huge oil holes in side of the lifters (for oil to get out from the lifter after coming down from the head) and as I had hydraulic lifters, should I block that oil feed to prevent oil pressure from dropping? Wont it push oil IN to the lifter from that huge side hole rather than let oil come OUT? If I block that oil feed, do the lifters have enough lubrication?

 

From small bolt at the side of the block you can block oil feed to the side of the lifters - If I'm correct? How have you done it? By longer bolt? How long bolt you have used, too long and you lose oil feed to head... Is the hole threaded long enough or do you have to make longer thread?

 

 

Thank you already!

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If i remember correctly you can use a grubscrew. I have solid lifters and compared to the hydraulic ones the hole is in a different spot to the groove in the hydraulic. Ill get some pics when i get home. Hopefully someone more insightful will chime in

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compared to the hydraulic ones the hole is in a different spot to the groove in the hydraulic

But as the lifters move up and down, wont the holes get alined?

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I am in need of replacing the lifters in my 5K and it seems the sold ones as described above is a good option. Did they work for you? converting from hydraulic to solid?

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Why anyone converts to solids.......................

 

A heap of stuffing around for little or no gain, and extra maintenance :(

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I don't want to convert to solids but I can find the original hydraulic lifters, any ideas where I might find them? Thanks

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Why anyone converts to solids.......................

 

A heap of stuffing around for little or no gain, and extra maintenance :(

My understanding is that I had to run solid lifters to run my ridiculous cam. I thought that was the reason everyone did the change, to run a cam?

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I converted to solids. Just did it. Don't regret it.

I couldn't be bothered messing around measuring cam lift, head height, blah blah blah, to determine lifter preload adjustments. I built the engine myself with only machine work done in shop.

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Dunno, ran a hydraulic cam based on a Wade 169 grind. Would easily run past 7500 rpm to the point of running off the end of the factory tachometer, all without having to reset valve clearances. Don't know how many revs you would want to pull in a street engine.....

 

An all out competition motor, I guess the effort would be worth it - maybe.

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Why anyone converts to solids.......................

 

A heap of stuffing around for little or no gain, and extra maintenance :(

My hydraulic ones seemed to be broken, one valve had got "flat" from top as clearence had been wrong for long time. Had valve job done anyway as I took whole head to resurfacing.

 

So I change to solids to prevent this from happening again. I'm building reliable engine to my summer car, KE15 Sprinter Corolla.

 

I never ran this engine, just bought it and took it apart - And good thing that I did... It had been in "youth-crapheap-city-racer" KE70 Corolla at some point and it shows. Originally imported from Japan.

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