Box Boy South Africa Posted October 26, 2015 Report Share Posted October 26, 2015 Hi Guys me again Got my ke70 riding perfect, now it can't stop :oops: (little to well if you ask me). So i figured i should check and replace my brakes. ;) now after replacing all round brake shoes and linings, Master Cylinder(as it was leaking by the connection to the booster), and new brake fluid, bleeding the brakes ect. I found that my handbrake works 100% :thumbsup: but my brake pedal is not? :down: now after bleeding about 1 liter of brake fluid through the system until the fluid that comes out of the system is as clean as it when in at all four bleeder screws, the brake pedal is halfway up and does not hit the brake switch not a problem but there is no brakes on the car when i drive i have to pump the pedal and use the e-brake to get the car to stop. if it stands an ideals and i pump the brakes it dies. :bash: could this mean i have to replace my brake booster :rant: , or do i need to bleed the brakes while the car is running. :hmm: please help with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 One test would be to put your foot on the brakes and hold it there while you start the car. The booster should suck the pedal down under your foot, & if it doesn't the diaphram is not working. Did you manually adjust the rear shoes up until they just drag on the drums, then pump the pedal a few times to re-center them and then re-check them. While the KE70 has self-adjusting shoes you need to set them up manually first, a pain in the arse job. Don't forget the ratchet mechanism only works in one direction, pushing the shoes outwards. Having the brake pedal halfway up means you should look carefully at the old cylinder and the new one. There is something odd there, a distance to a rod or piston or something strange. Maybe the booster is jammed halfway down, maybe the master cyl is faulty and the pistons are not coming right back... Did you change anything at the pedal?? Did you take the booster out? What was wrong with the system when you took it all apart?? More than just the leaking master cyl?? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Box Boy South Africa Posted October 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 thanks dude but the pedal does get sucked anyway to the floor from my foot after i pump it hard and keep it pressed down with build up from the pumping when i start it. and then stays there then i need to pump it to get it up again and when i do this at ideal the car dies. what i did was I replaced both rear wheel brake cylinders, brake shoes at the back even adjust the rear shoes up until they just drag on the drums so they just slightly touch the drums when i put it back on and pulled the handbrake and pumped the brakes to center them, replaced the front brake shoes and the master cylinder as-well. only things i did not replace was the brake booster and the brake lines where the brake fluid runs in, now i don't see any leaks but brake still not in working order recon i just need to get a new booster but that's a bit to far fetched for me to do myself as i was told that you have to remove the pedal box and hell knows what else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Box Boy South Africa Posted October 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 anybody know a good mechanic this side of the world that will not charge me a arm and a leg to help me or try and swop out my original parts for knock offs as the last one i had wanted to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B.L.Z.BUB Posted October 27, 2015 Report Share Posted October 27, 2015 Does the pedal have full travel? Was the replacement MC new or used. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Box Boy South Africa Posted October 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY FULL TRAVEL. well the pedal is just hanging there with no pressure to it almost to the floor you need to use your foot or hand to bring it back up to hit the brake switch. pumping it a few time makes it come up half of the way, and then you can feel that theres brake when you start the car the pedal just drops down to the floor again. and the master cylinder is a new one i bought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 (edited) OK, so the handbrake only comes up a couple of notches and locks up solid?? and the shoes just scrape when you turn the wheels on a jack?? Just check that again now to make sure... That will tell you if the rear shoes are adjusted right. The fronts are self-adjusting, as they're discs, so THAT means any problems are in the master cyl. First, lie under the dash & check the pedal and see what is happening when you pull it all the way back up. Does it pull the shaft back out of the booster?? Why is there slack and free-play between the pedal and the booster?? Is the pin in correctly?? Is the spring on where it should be?? you need to use your foot or hand to bring it back up to hit the brake switch. Now, the internal master cyl springs should push the pistons back, and the pedal spring should lift the pedal up. Take the master cyl off and look inside the back of it. The piston should be right back against the circlip. Check how far the adjustable shaft sticking out of the booster comes. This is what pushes the master cyl pistons forward, and if that shaft doesn't sit just behind the pistons the pedal will go down and the master cyl won't move. If it sticks out too far the brakes will go on but not come off. Not your problem, but I had that once and hence I learnt about it. Adjust the adjustable shaft until it pushes the piston forward when you fit the master cyl onto the booster by hand, then screw it back in until it doesn't quite touch the m'cyl piston. This thing- http://www.supermoto...ter-pushrod.jpg The booster is working as it does suck the pedal down. It stalls the car at idle because every time you push the pedal it lets air into the inlet manifold and leans out the mixture. Either you have the wrong m'cyl, or it is not setup correctly, or you haven't bled all the air out. Bleeding- If there are bleed nipples on the m'cyl you bleed them first. Mine doesn't have any, but I don't know what m'cyl you bought. Two-man job.. Open the bleed nipple, mate pushes the pedal down and holds it down, you close the nipple, he lets the pedal up. Repeat a couple of times. When the m'cyl is done, go to the nearest wheel. Loosen the bleed nipple and do it up just enough so its easy to open again. He pumps the pedal up and down 4 or 5 times and holds it down. You open the bleed nipple then close it, then he lets the pedal up. Repeat a few times until no bubbles come out. Do each wheel in turn. If the brake fluid is clean like you say and you have a clean tin to catch it in, I'd re-use it. I used to run a garage in Wynberg, long before your time I'm sure, but I still have a mate there that used to work for me. He became a paneelklopper but will know mechanics of cheap & dodgy persuasions should you get desperate. Replacing the booster is shit-easy and you don't take out the pedal box... not your problem anyway, brakes would be fine but hard to press if the booser was crook. try and swop out my original parts for knock offs as the last one i had wanted to do. haha! Goffels my man! Airfares to Jo'burg are 50% off this week... fly me over & I'll fix it! Edited October 28, 2015 by altezzaclub 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Box Boy South Africa Posted October 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 hahaha Goffels in deed. :rant: when i fitted my master cylinder the was no piston sticking out of the booster as in your pic :bash: it was only the two bolts and the piston was in deeper?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted October 28, 2015 Report Share Posted October 28, 2015 The m'cyl does go back into the booster a way, so you will have to do some careful measuring. I think the shaft sits just back inside the booster and the m'cyl piston goes in 5 or 10mm. First make sure the pedal moves correctly and the booster shaft does the same. Touch the pedal and the shaft should move out of the booster with it. Then work out the gap between the booster shaft and the m'cyl piston. Even some bluetac or plastosine on the back of the piston should show you the gap when its assembled. . If you have the m'cyl bolted on and you undo a brake line a little, one person can carefully push the brake pedal by hand and the other person can watch for when fluid leaks out of the m'cyl connection as the pistons move. That will also tell you how far the pedal moves before the m'cyl does anything, which is a measure of the gap. If the gap is a couple of mm and the brakes don't work, check the bleeding again. As soon as that pedal pushes the rod into the booster it should push brake fluid out a nipple. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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