RainWarriorDregs Posted November 19, 2015 Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 Hey guys, long time no post. My high compression (11.5:1) 5k-c deadly race motor blew a headgasket today. Not too keen on putting another factory one in. The one that blew was NOT a genuine Toyota one, that's my next attempt. I wouldn't mind a metal gasket of some sort, i can find one for 3ks and 4ks but not listed for 5k, plus my motor is overbore so 3-4k isn't an option. Probably going to try a genuine one and see how that goes. Not keen on ARP studs as $600 for a set really isn't an option. Any ideas? Or do i need to get one custom made? Cheers for the help guys, keen to get back into it. Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted November 19, 2015 Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 Was it between cyl 2 & 3? Can you tell if it was a failure of the gasket due to pressure or the head lifting off it due to the alloy flexing or the bolts stretching?? One soluton is to cut a groove in the block around the top of the cyls and fit a copper compression ring in it. That was the 1970s-80s idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted November 19, 2015 Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 I've never had any issues with high boost with a genuine gasket. Have always had the arp's in as well though. Was the head machined well last time too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RainWarriorDregs Posted November 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2015 Between 3&4. It wasn't a major blow out but just enough to cause engine failure. (I'm pretty sure between 3 and 4 haha. It's been a long night shift). It seems to have been a pressure blow out, I'm keen for input tho. In my mind if it was head bolts or warping head related wouldn't it have a wider area of damage? The head was machined flat right before we put it on. Took about 2.5mm off of it if I recall correctly. Then about 2 mm off the Pistons and the block to level with the Pistons. That's interesting altezzaclub, I'll run it past my mate who's helping me with the block Taz I'm thinking that might be the way to go. Genuine Toyota gasket and some arps. Could I just use a genuine gasket and torque the bolts to hell and back? Cheers for the input guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Mine runs 10.6:1 and always seems to blow between cylinders 2-3. Not bad enough to cause engine failure but enough to create a knock and some uneven idle vacuum. That's how I know when it's gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Sorry I'm late to the party. A proper fire ring setup will cost a bit over the $1k mark once rings made, special copper gasket and block mods are done. I'm organizing mine at the moment. It's way overkill for engines under 13:1 na or under 30psi of boost. I have a contact for custom Multi Layer Steel H/G's but a one off is $360+ plus I will also have a price for a group buy, of arp head studs, by the end of the month. Should be around the $260-280 range with the dollar being so crap. But back to trying to figure out why the H/G blew. How big is your cam? What carbs? What timing do you run? What do the piston crowns look like? A crap tune will do that, so will a bad batch of fuel. A genuine H/G and head studs should be sufficient though. And no, over tightening a head bolt will cause it to snap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rke_011 Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 I have a contact for custom Multi Layer Steel H/G's but a one off is $360+ plus I will also have a price for a group buy, of arp head studs, by the end of the month. Should be around the $260-280 range with the dollar being so crap. Keep me in mind for head studs.. could be interested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickn5k Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Keep me in mind for head studs.. could be interested Already had yourself and a couple others in mind for a pm, when i found out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterd Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Alec, I'm running a 4k block, 5k head with a spacer, on a trimatic. From memory, the compression is around 13:1. Its had a genuine Toyota gasket on it for about a year with no problems. It probably has an easier life with the auto though. The car gets used a few times a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RainWarriorDregs Posted November 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Sorry I'm late to the party. A proper fire ring setup will cost a bit over the $1k mark once rings made, special copper gasket and block mods are done. I'm organizing mine at the moment. It's way overkill for engines under 13:1 na or under 30psi of boost. I have a contact for custom Multi Layer Steel H/G's but a one off is $360+ plus I will also have a price for a group buy, of arp head studs, by the end of the month. Should be around the $260-280 range with the dollar being so crap. But back to trying to figure out why the H/G blew. How big is your cam? What carbs? What timing do you run? What do the piston crowns look like? A crap tune will do that, so will a bad batch of fuel. A genuine H/G and head studs should be sufficient though. And no, over tightening a head bolt will cause it to snap. Hmmmm... my mate who's helping me runs a workshop so i'll see what he thinks about the fire ring set up, don't want to spend much more on the motor, it owes me about 1200 bucks as it is. Yeah, sucks Cometic don't make a gasket for an old van motor haha, i can get copper ones cut up for about $400 a pop as my engine builder is getting some cut for his 350hp 2h diesel running 60psi of boost. The cam is based on the CT003 608 from camtech. (you can see it here http://www.camtechca..._4cyl_3k4k.html can't figure out how to get a pic on here) however they undercut the cam shaft a little bit to get some extra out of it. I don't have the cam card on me at the moment because i'm at work but i'll take a photo and chuck it up when i get home. I'm running a single 40mm solex which admittedly is a little small for what i'm doing as it came off my worked 4k (which made a whopping 65hp haha). This is the problem we're thinking. It may have had too small of a tune and leaned itself out and just popped the weakest thing, the head gasket. Everything else inside looked amazing still, the piston crowns and block surface, all edges etc. I'm not sure what timing we had it set on actually, i'll have to double check that, but i think we started at about 20 degreees and advanced from there for extra mang mang, basically, it wouldnt start at first haha. And yeah i was just pulling ideas with the overtightening haha, just bummed it failed. Alec, I'm running a 4k block, 5k head with a spacer, on a trimatic. From memory, the compression is around 13:1. Its had a genuine Toyota gasket on it for about a year with no problems. It probably has an easier life with the auto though. The car gets used a few times a week. Hey peter, its starting to sound like a clean up and a genuine headgasket is the go, a lot of people are saying that they are far superior than the aftermarket ones. Mines my daily, we probably only ran the engine for about 30 mins before it failed but that was 30 mins at 8000rpm, it was fun. But definitely felt like it wasn't getting enough fuel. Called Toyota today and they said it'll be a week for them to get a genuine gasket from down south :( And definitely keep me in mind for a set of ARP studs Stuart, i'd be down like a clown. Thanks for the help guys, i'll go round and see the motor tomorrow, see if my mate has figured anything cluey out and i'll keep you all informed Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted November 20, 2015 Report Share Posted November 20, 2015 Just trawled through thousands of pm and found the ones from back in 2008 when i bought my arp's. Thought part numbers were mentioned butt couldn't find them sorry. Sounds like you could be sorted through Stu though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GJM85 Posted November 21, 2015 Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 20 degrees is like a lot of ignition advance. With a stock 4k dizzy all in would be around 48*. I run a Tighe 154 cam which is not as aggressive as yours. I had my dizzy regraphed it's set at 10* initial and 32 all in at just under 3000rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RainWarriorDregs Posted November 25, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 25, 2015 Hey guys, got it all sorted, haven't had internet at home as council decided to put a jackhammer throught the NBN fibre line. was fun. Ended up getting a PERMASEAL headgasket that was atleast eleventy time stronger with wider cylinder bore seals and metal between the actual cylinder and the water hole (bad terminology haha). Thanks for having a look for that part number Si, i'll see what Stu comes up with for prices and stuff as i'm pretty poor now haha. I ended up just getting some high tensile bolts from bolt masters that matched the headbolts, they were actualyl really really close, they just didn't get skinnier through the middle which leads me to believe they wouldn't stretch as much, but only time will tell. I'll tell ya what tho, this thing hammers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joshua.mathews Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 I'm running a 3kb head on 5k block with flat top pistons at 10.5 comp standard headbolts and head gasket never had any problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew73 Posted December 8, 2015 Report Share Posted December 8, 2015 I believe the ARP Head Stud Part numbers for a K motor are : AM5.000-1LB M10 x 1.25" x 5" (Qty 10 required) 300-8364 M10 x 1.25 12pt Nut Kit (10 pack) 200-8689 M10 ID 3/4" OD Black Chamfer Washers (10 pack) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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