Jump to content
springersrolla

Clutch Cable Issues

Recommended Posts

Hey dudes trying to getvmy corolla moving and need some help with the clutch cable. I have one that I'm sure i used years ago, i fed it from the back of the box up into the firewall, clipped it on the clutch pedal, went underneath and clipped it on to the clutch fork. Now i have about 3" of slack at the rubber stopper at the firewall. Cable seems loose at the fork end, slides into the box but thats it, i don't have the spring on the fork at the moment but its not moving much either. May have had a brain fart and put the box in without the throwout but the fork seems firm and no slop. Theres no way to feed the cable from the front back as the cable wont separate at the clutch end. I'm at my wits end and the next step is to pull out the box and check throwout. Is there anything else i should be looking for???? Thanks in advance

post-7052-0-85725800-1449836304_thumb.png

post-7052-0-14750900-1449836362_thumb.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Members dont see this ad

Oh clutch cables ! I think we've all struggled with clutch cable issues at some time or other. The most common problem is aftermarket clutch cables that are too long. After market clutch pressure plates with release fingers in a different position. Machined flywheels without reintroducing the lip. Throw out bearings omitted or put on back to front. Driven clutch plates with linings too thick.

 

Before you go pulling out the gearbox, you can carefully prise out the rubber boot & put a small 12V auto bulb on a length of wire inside, to see with a little mirror whether everything related to the fork /fingers & throw out bearing looks OK. Three inches is a big amount of free play, so there is something very wrong. I've blown up your photo of where the cable passes through the bell housing hole, and it doesn't look quite right to me. The cable appears to be at a slight angle to the bell housing flange. It should be quite straight, because the cable has an alloy locator on it.I can't see the shoulder of the locator in your photo. When I head out to the garage later, I'll take a photo of this area & you can compare with your setup. I realise it's hard to take a photo of this restricted area.

 

Here's a photo of this area I found on the net.

 

post-270-0-33678600-1449867954.jpg

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine is the same as in your pics springers , i have a factory ke30 cable and it is in my ke25. I have washers under the rubber block at the firewall, and spacers at the bellhousing as well. It works fine, but I do wonder why the length issue as well.

 

I bought one of those ke20 cables off ebay, it ended up being exactly the same length except it was such a terrible cable the clutch was almost unuseable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, aftermarket stuff can be cheap, but often the quality is poor. The original KE series clutch cables had a Teflon or similar lining/coating on the cable itself, inside the outer sheath. This reduced the friction on the big bend/curve in the cable as it changes direction 180 deg down past the brake MC. Many of the after market ones don't have the Teflon coating. You can improve the uncoated ones by holding the outer sheath in a vice & slowly dripping oil down the cable, working the inner up & down, until it drips out the bottom. I have revived an old cable sucessfully that way in the past. Another way is keeping the 180 deg bend in the clutch cable rigid, so that it does move, under load. Later KE55s had a factory bracket fitted to the brake MC, that did just that.

 

The clutch adjustment at the firewall, has always been an issue, with the circlips popping off. Many installations finish up like this.

 

post-270-0-15333600-1449875200.jpg

 

post-270-0-31138400-1449874973_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is no circlip on the bottom of my cable. I just grabbed an old original Toyota cable from the garage & photed each end.

 

 

 

 

 

post-270-0-51071300-1449877002_thumb.jpg

 

Springers, looking at your photo of your cable poking through the bell housing flange, it looks like a different cable.

 

If you want to remove your cable & measure it all up, I will do the same here to this one, and you can compare lengths of the sheath & cable end to end.

 

 

Cheers Banjo

post-270-0-43994000-1449876967_thumb.jpg

Edited by Banjo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys thanks for the responses, yep it was missing an eclip on the bottom part of the cable. Pulled it thru the bellhousing and put the clip on, hooked up clutch pedal and all good. Thanks all

post-7052-0-48145700-1449889165_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well there you go ! You live and learn. Every clutch cable I've ever had in a KE has had the shoulder built into the cable, so no circlip was required. I've never seen one of those before, like Springer has.

 

Good one Altezzaclub.

 

Problem solved.

 

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...