Rolaspec Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Thanks, I was looking at the jb1762 so glad you cleared that up before I bought the wrong one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oh what a nissan feeling! Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 mine is jb1762, it is externally identical to the one pictured. the difference is likely internal, usually the later model would have a bigger bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolaspec Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 From what I have read the bore size on both is 23.81, but the 62 looks like the one in the pic and the 12 on eBay seems to have the outlets on the side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonKE55 Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) What year ke30 booster? As long as it's got the 2 parallel mc bolts and not the diagonals like the ke55 I should be right yeah? What's the difference in mounting to pedal or is all the same? Then I'll source a paj mc and all sweet. This is holding me up now. Nearly ready to fire up and take for a spin Edited February 23, 2016 by JasonKE55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7000rpm Posted February 25, 2016 Report Share Posted February 25, 2016 Hi Steve, Most Rollaclub guys who upgrade their front brake rotors & calipers, also increase the capacity of their master cylinder to avoid a very hard pedal. Master cylinders with 15/16" or 1.0" dia. cylinders work well. I used a Pajero MC, and it worked fine. Brand new ones on ebay were relatively cheap. You could do the conversion in two stages. Upgrade the brakes, and see how "hard" the brake pedal force required is with your existing MC. If it is too hard then upgrade the MC also. I did similar upgrade a couple of years ago. I used Cressida rotors & calipers, + the Pajero MC. The braking performance of the car was greatly improved, and it has worked perfectly. I've currently got a KE55 complete rear diff assembly & 9.0" brakes ready to go in, to finalise the complete brake upgrade. Only thing to consider, is whether you want to upgrade the booster also. However, it gets very tight in that area, if you go to a bigger booster + MC. I stuck with the KE30 one. http://www.rollaclub...page__hl__banjo http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/70150-problems-after-paj-master-cyl-install/page__p__686736__hl__+pajero#entry686736 Cheers Banjo O Hi Banjo, Can you please tell us about your cressida caliper and rotor upgrade? I'm looking for options on my ke70 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banjo Posted February 29, 2016 Report Share Posted February 29, 2016 (edited) Sorry for the slow response. Wanted bigger & better brakes on my KE30 2 door, but didn't want to go to 15" wheels. Finished up with Celicia RA65 struts, but the KPI on these is about 9.0 deg, and gives slightly positive camber. Needed adjustable Techno Toy Tuning camber top adjusters, to get it slightly negative again. Wanted to keep LCAs length standard. Biggest vented disc rotors I could find at the wreckers, that would fit inside the rims, were out of a Cressida MX62. The caliper mounts on the RA65 strut had 100mm centres and were parallel to the rotor, so required no packing or adjustment. Many of the Toyota disc calipers have 90 mm mounting centres, but I did find a later model Cressida (about 1992 - 1993 model) that had giant single pot calipers with 100mm mounting centres. These fitted the RA65 strut caliper mounts perfectly. These calpiers were however designed for a slightly thicker rotor. I needed to machine just 1mm off the caliper mounting face to get the caliper to sit over the rotor with the disc pads evenly spaced either side. I also needed a 2 mm flat spacer behind each disc pad, so that with everything new the pots were fully retracted. This was easy, as I just ground the brake pad off old disc pads backing plates, & then had then the backing plates machined down about 2mm. This is a very straight forward conversion, using KE70 coils & lower sping perches, so the the camber adjusters travel can be used in full. (KE70 has the smallest dia coils of the early Corollas) The later model Cressida calipers have giant disc pads which cover a greater area of the MX62 rotor that the original MX62 pads. This provided great breaking performance, with lower pressure requirements. However, I did convert my master cylinder to the early Pajero one. The result was a front brake performance that bears no comparison, to the original KE30s brakes. Let's be frank. Early Corolla's were not reknown for there good brakes. I'm about to fit a KE55 diff assembly which had 9" brake drums, rather than the original KE30's 8.0" drums. This diff has a 4.11 ratio (manual) rather than the 4.3 original in the car, as the KE30 started life as an automatic. I'd love a 3.89 diff ratio but can't find one at present. However, with the 4.11 & the slightly larger 14 wheels & tyres, I should get a car with "longer legs" and hopefully can cruise on the open road at 110 kph at about 2600 - 2800 rpm, in 5th gear. (yes it has a KE70 5 speed box) Cheers Banjo Edited March 1, 2016 by Banjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolaspec Posted March 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Hey Banjo is the 55 diff a straight bolt in for the ke30 2dr? Or is it necessary to move spring mounts etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banjo Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 (edited) Hi Steve, Yes pretty much straight in, bolt up changeover. However, if changing over from a JAP diff, you will need the tailshaft also, as the tailshaft to diff flanges are different. Cheers Banjo Edited March 1, 2016 by Banjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolaspec Posted March 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Thanks mate, I have a Borg Warner in mine already so thats no problem, all I need is the front yoke too suit a t50 gearbox but I'm having trouble sourcing a tailshaft any thoughts? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taz_Rx Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Early or late t50? If early it has the same front yoke as a k box! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolaspec Posted March 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Good question I think it is the later one, it's got 22 spline output Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parrot Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Excuse my ignorance Banjo. By this, "The caliper mounts on the RA65 strut had 100mm centres" do you mean the hole in the caliper mount that fits over the stub? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7000rpm Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Sorry for the slow response. Wanted bigger & better brakes on my KE30 2 door, but didn't want to go to 15" wheels. Finished up with Celicia RA65 struts, but the KPI on these is about 9.0 deg, and gives slightly positive camber. Needed adjustable Toymod's camber top adjusters, to get it slightly negative again. Wanted to keep LCAs length standard. Biggest vented disc rotors I could find at the wreckers, that would fit inside the rims, were out of a Cressida MX62. The caliper mounts on the RA65 strut had 100mm centres and were parallel to the rotor, so required no packing or adjustment. Many of the Toyota disc calipers have 90 mm mounting centres, but I did find a later model Cressida (about 1992 - 1993 model) that had giant single pot calipers with 100mm mounting centres. These fitted the RA65 strut caliper mounts perfectly. These calpiers were however designed for a slightly thicker rotor. I needed to machine just 1mm off the caliper mounting face to get the caliper to sit over the rotor with the disc pads evenly spaced either side. I also needed a 2 mm flat spacer behind each disc pad, so that with everything new the pots were fully retracted. This was easy, as I just ground the brake pad off old disc pads backing plates, & then had then the backing plates machined down about 2mm. This is a very straight forward conversion, using KE70 coils & lower sping perches, so the the camber adjusters travel can be used in full. (KE70 has the smallest dia coils of the early Corollas) The later model Cressida calipers have giant disc pads which cover a greater area of the MX62 rotor that the original MX62 pads. This provided great breaking performance, with lower pressure requirements. However, I did convert my master cylinder to the early Pajero one. The result was a front brake performance that bears no comparison, to the original KE30s brakes. Let's be frank. Early Corolla's were not reknown for there good brakes. I'm about to fit a KE55 diff assembly which had 9" brake drums, rather than the original KE30's 8.0" drums. This diff has a 4.11 ratio (manual) rather than the 4.3 original in the car, as the KE30 started life as an automatic. I'd love a 3.89 diff ratio but can't find one at present. However, with the 4.11 & the slightly larger 14 wheels & tyres, I should get a car with "longer legs" and hopefully can cruise on the open road at 110 kph at about 2600 - 2800 rpm, in 5th gear. (yes it has a KE70 5 speed box) Cheers Banjo Thanks Banjo, that sounds awesome! I'm going to go to the wrekers and see what I can find. I am running MA61 wheels so this should be ideal So you welded the ke70 lower spring perchs onto the celica struts? I gather that I might be able to use the ke70 strut tops also? Cheers Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banjo Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 Hi Parrot, Most calipers have two mounting holes where the caliper attaches to the strut axle casting. The centre to centre of these two mountings is the 100mm I was referring to. The Corona strut's, (used by many on Rollaclub) mounting, are I think, 90mm centre to centre. This picture isn't mine, I just grabbed it off the net to make it clear. Cheers Banjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banjo Posted March 1, 2016 Report Share Posted March 1, 2016 (edited) Hi Wayne, Yes, just carefully grind the KE70 struts lower spring perches off, open the hole out to approx 50mm to be a snug fit on the strut, and weld it back on, with enough compression on the spring, so that it will still be held captive, when you have a wheel airborne. I only used the top KE70 spring cap, as I used the Techno Toy Tuning camber adjustmenter. The spacing of the 3 studs on the KE70 top strut mount are different to other KEs. They are not evenly spaced. No doubt, you could probably use the KE70 top spring perch with a normal KE30/55 top rubber mount. Cheers Banjo Edited March 2, 2016 by Banjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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