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I provided my own ae86 lower leg and stub so they didnt charge any extra. What do you mean their normal production ones? Whats the overall length of the entire unit?

 

For a while they were selling 86 kits with an aftermarket cast lower stub section as you can see in my picture. Apparently they were to expensive to produce so they stopped making them, I luckily got there last set.

Overall length would probably still be the same, mine just has more bare thread.

Here's another pic.....

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=122877

Edited by Taz_Rx
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For a while they were selling 86 kits with an aftermarket cast lower stub section as you can see in my picture. Apparently they were to expensive to produce so they stopped making them, I luckily got there last set.

Overall length would probably still be the same, mine just has more bare thread.

Here's another pic.....

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=122877

 

Oh ok, they did mention they had just redesigned certain aspects. Apart from the buttom 50mm which holds the actual stub axle, that whole lower leg is welded on and part of coilover. Is the height set in the photo the same as what it is in the car? Got a photo?

Edited by Adske
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New horn button installed this yesterday. Also finally finished removing the plastic door guards, did plugs and leads and cleaned the dizzy cap terminals. By the looks of things it had been a long while. Bumper mounts this week.

post-24088-0-56334300-1464493975_thumb.png

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  • 4 weeks later...

Alright, not a great deal had been happening until yesterday. I blew the welded diff early last week which was bound to happen sooner or later. After pulling the diff out last night and openning it up it wasnt hard to see why. One of the spider gears went due to no penetration on the welds and slag all over the thing.

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post-24088-0-00757800-1466471960_thumb.jpeg

 

So got another welded diff off a mate of mine for free, auto diff so its 4.11s instead of 3.9s ????

Openned it up to inspect it, and I'm glad i did because half the welds had snapped and there was a fair amount of play and movement in the spider gears... not any more ????

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Just need to give it a good clean out and its ready to go in.

 

Also picked up a few more goodies.

Xt130 LCAs

Ae86 hubs and p/s arms

Bearing kits and new wheel studs.

Currently prepping it all for paint as they all looks pretty weathered.

 

Should be getting AJPS tie rod ends this week and rose jointed caster rods.

Ill keep you all posted!

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On the next diff just fill a set of teeth with weld, opposite each other on the spider geears. So they can turn untl they all hit a welded gap at once, then they can turn back the other way until the same point jams.

 

That allows about 1/3 of a wheel turn before they lock, which lets the nose turn in much better rather than be pushed straight ahead. Because the welds are being crushed they can't snap, you'll have to break 4 teeth off before it fails.

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On the next diff just fill a set of teeth with weld, opposite each other on the spider geears. So they can turn untl they all hit a welded gap at once, then they can turn back the other way until the same point jams.

 

That allows about 1/3 of a wheel turn before they lock, which lets the nose turn in much better rather than be pushed straight ahead. Because the welds are being crushed they can't snap, you'll have to break 4 teeth off before it fails.

 

So that play and movement in the spider gears was probably meant to be there then? Haha i just assumed complete lock would be the goal. Although, some of the welds had definately snapped. Ill be replacing it with the hilux diff thats in my parts car once the new motor goes in so i guess its not too much of an issue for now

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