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Ke70Daves New Euro Toy


ke70dave

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Thanks mate!

 

got enthsiastic and went to bunnings, got some loom tube and started making things look pretty.

 

the blue labels are just there so i remember where they go, once ive taped up the loom they will come off.

 

Looks rather good i thought. New bosch plugs are awesome. I'm never playing with brittle second hand plugs again! like 30bucks for 10 of them.

 

post-2532-0-61996400-1483440377_thumb.png

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Ok so one week on. Progress hasnt been as quick as i would have liked

 

Everything is finished installation wise, fairly happy with the wiring, not as neat as i would have liked, but its functional. Idle control valve is plumbed up and working (PWM from ecu wtih target idle), its ready to drive, and i have driven it like 100m or less.

 

Turns out the learning curve on tuning is quite steep. Who knew?

 

I have it starting perfect cold, enrichment on warm up, idle control valve starts the idle at 1100 and drops it to 850 at operating temp. Idling nice when hot, and free-reving reasonably well. But i cannot get it to reliably start hot!!!

 

I have flattened the battery numerous times trying to get it to start hot. it seems to start if left for 5mins. but if you turn it off at operating temp and try and start it again straight away (ie you stalled in traffic) it just refuses to start!

 

I think i have ruined the spark plugs, so I'm going to get new ones in the next day or so. i pulled a spark plug last night and they were quite carboned up, so perhaps they arent giving a very strong spark when hot or something.

 

Other than that I'm kinda out of ideas, luckily i've wired it in such a way that it is about 1hrs work to put it all back to working OEM.

 

Soooo tedius to create a fuel map from scratch, but certainly learning alot.

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Maybe...

 

once operating idle fuel requirements is around 2.1mS in the fuel map, for a ~13.5:1 idle.

 

there are a few corrections in play under start up.

 

-Injector dead time (basically 1mS all the time) - so the idle is actually around 3.2mS

-Coolant temperature compensation (quite high when cold, basically zero when hot)

-Initial fuel pulse - first squirt of the injector when the engine starts turning - this was initially set insanely high by default (70mS)

 

I left the initial pulse at 70mS as it seemed to work, but now its playing up considerably, perhaps because ive gotten the rest of the fuel map closer (ie richer, where its supposed to be and now its just far too rich to fire)

 

After last nights efforts (pulled old spark plugs and cleaned them up a bit) it is definitely over fueling on start up, the cylinders stink of fuel when you pull the spark plug.

 

So i reckon next step is to make that initial pulse basically zero, and keep increasing it until it starts properly.

Edited by ke70dave
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Thanks guys, yah ive toned it down to around 10 cold, see how it goes on that.

 

Looks like ive completely ruined my spark plugs, which i didnt know was possible. Swapped it back to oem ecu last night just to see if it would actually start and all i get is a kick or two, the plugs are black as, time to buy new plugs tonight and try again.

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Well things took a turn for the worst on the weekend and to be honest i gave up on the haltech.

 

I bought new spark plugs, chucked them in and it was still on OEM ecu and it started instantly and ran good.

 

Swapped over to the haltech and i couldn't get the thing to fire, sort of kicked sometimes. So i then swapped to a previous tune file that i know worked, and it still wouldn't fire! So at this stage i have removed the haltech and my loom and i need to do some fault finding in my loom.

 

I've been working 12hr days for the last few weeks and it doesn't look like its going to let up, so i don't really have the time to be able to muck about trying to fix it. And i don't want to just take it to someone either cause that will cost me a fortune! So i decided yesterday to put it all back to oem to get the car back on the road, as after all i'm all about driving it, rather than working on it.

 

Few hrs later i had it all back together and i drove it to work this morning. Driving really well, probably better than it ever has. I did reroute a few vac lines so perhaps i fixed yet another vac leak.

 

So at this stage haltech is in the too hard basket until i get some more time, I've actually put it on gumtree and if it sells i will buy a newer unit at some stage. I have a feeling the software isn't playing nice with windows 10 on my laptop anyway.

 

For the time being I'm going to save my money and buy some new wheels and tyres as well as look into suspension bushes. Basically do modifications that i can perform in a few hours on a Saturday and guarantee its back on the road shortly after.

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Yah already got discs on the 6clrs. I put new pads, rotors and fluid in when i was doing up the engine, brakes work quite well for oem.

 

Havenet really decided what to do suspension wise.

 

The big issue is is that the sump is the lowest part of the car at the front, and its already quite a low car, maybe ~140mm at the sump. its not uncommon for people to smash the sump on soemthing even with a small lowering.

 

the interwebs suggests that anything over about 1" of drop stuffs the suspension anyway, especially the rear.

 

Rear is a trailing arm type suspension with like -2deg Camber from from the factory. Any sort of lowering greatly increases the camber (well makes it more negative) and i think adds a ton of toe in. and you can't do much about these from factory. I think you have to convert to camber type bolts, and lots of guys seem to weld on new tabs to the sub frame, which is far too much work!

 

Front is just mcpherson strut, but with fixed castor (as it has a triangular lower crontrol arm allowing no adjustment), though it has a fairly generous castor from factory.

 

Ill swap out all the bushes first and see how it goes. It does have alot of body roll id like to remove, but it is very comfortable to drive and I'm old and daily drive it so i don't want to sacrifice that too much, haha.

Edited by ke70dave
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yeah i think id be better off with windows xp, but i just don't have time to be stuffing about with windows xp! both my laptops already have windows 10.

 

If i was to buy another ecu id probebly want to get one that can do full sequential for a 6clr, which would be 6inj outputs and 6ign ouputs. although to do that i would need to put in a cam sensor, which has been done many times before on the m20, just a bit of a stuff about again. Least if i want to use it on another 6clr engine in the future i would have the option anyway.

 

Drove again to work, all kinds of fun, AC so cold my sunglasses fogged up stepping out of the car:)

Edited by ke70dave
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That might be a good option. A nice modern CAS to get things reliable.

 

I also had evil thoughts of looking out for the 2.5L engine, loom and ECU and doing up the 2.5L from the 325i. the later model (88-1991?) engines run a motronic system which is a digital ecu (ooooh modern), as well as a different distributor that allows the spark to be ecu controlled (similar to the 4age bigports). Basically a bolt in afair and to the uneducated the engines basically look the same. just a more modern design overall. This is all dreaming stuff as i got no room for that yet. but the 2.5L on oem ecu factory power is ~20hp more than my current setup but they don't come up for sale too often and people want a few bucks for them. For the time being the 2.3L is suiting me fine

 

I had a highway patrol police car pull an illegal u-turn last night and pulled in behind me. I was waiting for the party lights, but they never turned on. Followed me for a few blocks and i could see her checking stuff on the computer. Followed me for maybe 10mins through suburbia, then i checked the mirror again and she was gone! must have pulled down a side street. Guess i'm too old to harass now:(

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