graysonvario Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 Hey guys hope you can help me out here After I flipped my leaf springs back up the right way I started to get a whirling / wining noise coming from the rear. It's not a howling noise like a bad wheel bearing. It's more of a friction noise. It's hard to word it right sorry It's on deceleration under 60 but constant above 60 and the faster I go the louder it gets Being a wagon it sounds amplified and I can't stand to go on the highway. I got under the car and I could move the tail shaft a fair bit and I could move it back and forward. My uni joints are solid with no play. Hope this vid works View My Video If that didn't work here is a pic of where the movement is coming from I think. I have a ke35 diff if that helps QUESTION 2 My diff has moved over to the passenger side My back pass side wheel sticks out 30mm My drivers side wheel sticks out 18mm Why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD ke70 Posted June 18, 2016 Report Share Posted June 18, 2016 (edited) Pinion nut is loose, take the tail shaft off the diff and you'll see a big nut, you'll need to tighten this up. specs.pdf Edited June 18, 2016 by TRD ke70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graysonvario Posted June 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 Pinion nut is loose, take the tail shaft off the diff and you'll see a big nut, you'll need to tighten this up. specs.pdf Wow i didn't think it would be that easy Thank you so much I really appreciate your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graysonvario Posted June 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 So my pinion bolt was talked upto spec But the whole shaft has play in it. What would be the cause? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted June 19, 2016 Report Share Posted June 19, 2016 (edited) Did you loosen it a little before doing it up?? If not, try that. Make sure you smack the locking tab flat before doing it, and make a bar to bolt onto two bolt holes and take up the leverage as you turn the socket. The pinion nut pushes two thrust bearings together, they locate the pinion shaft in the diff. Between them is a crush tube that should keep them the right distance apart at the correct toque to get an oil film on the bearings. However you actually do it up until you get a certain torque friction when the shaft turns, just like doing the front wheel brgs to a touch of play. It measures the friction as the pinion turns, but not the crownwheel, so its only a few mm movement. I think you're up for a full diff strip, but start with taking out the front bearing & crush tube and seeing what is wrong. If the bearing surfaces look OK then try doing it back up. In theory you always need a new crush tube, and you will need the torque friction for when it is correct. Its only an inch.lb measurement, so you might have to make a little weight set on an arm to measure it. Its the pinion pre-load, if you can find the data for it. If the nut was always tight then something sad has happened inside. Edited June 19, 2016 by altezzaclub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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