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Ke30 3K Engine Burning Oil.


MrMasternes
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Altezzaclub is probably right, that it would not be a good idea to use a thicker oil, because of your colder climate in Norway.

 

Unfortunately, by the time it gets to the stage that you can smell the oil burning, it's probably time for the engine to come out, for a hone & new rings, or a rebore, if the bores are too "wavey".

 

The smoke is usually the result of oil in the sump getting up into the combustion chambers, past the rings & pistons, although shot valve stem seals plus worn valve stems & guides will also produce a similar effect.

 

Make sure the spring loaded valve on the top of the rocker cover is clean & working, because it reliefs pressure build up in the crankcase, which can also assist in driving oil up past worn rings.

 

This usually happens because of carbon building up in the piston ring grooves, such that the rings can't move to effectively scrape the oil off the cylinder walls.

 

There are some after market oil additives, that are claimed to seal smoking engines, but if they do work, it is usually only for a limited period.

 

However, in some old motors, the build up between the rings, actually helps seal, & avoid more oil consumption.

 

I once made the big mistake in an olde Corolla, of filling the tank with the best premium highest octane fuel available at the pump.

 

By the time that tank had been consumed, the cleaning additives in the premium fuel, had loosened the carbon, and the engine was smoking like a steam train.

 

Big mistake !

 

Cheers Banjo

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks Banjo, I'm gonna start with the valve stem seals and see how that works out. If not I'm thinking it's time for the engine to come out as you said. New rings and gaskets everywhere, I'll see how my budget turns out, I went back studying so I'll see how much I can afford. Luckly I have access to a shop where I can work.

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Rings and valve stem seals show different symptoms. Rings smoke under acceleration at a constant rate. Stem seals let oil down the inlet vavle stems at idle (under high vacuum) and that burns as you drive away from the traffic lights. Then it stops until you idle again and it builds up.

 

If you muck around with a compressor hose and fit it to a drilled-out spark plug you can pressurise a cylinder while you take the vlave springs off & change the seal. Another idea is to put a length of rope down the plug hole as you wind the piston up. If you drop a valve into a cylinder its 'head-off' time, so its worthwhile trying to do them with just the rocker shaft out.

 

Only the inlets smoke as the exhausts aren't under vacuum.

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