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I need a bolt and washer for the crankshaft pulley on my 3K. new crank...old worn bolt won't go back in. Do you know how many are the same? I can find one for a 4K that is 13471C from JPcarparts .com but I can't find any pictures to tell if it's the same thing. I'm assuming it has to be this big and heavy for some reason...or can I just find a bolt that fits?

Picture 274.jpg

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Another question....

With this new (reconditioned) crankshaft I'm not seeing the pistons come up to flush with the deck. I'm pretty sure I always saw the pistons level with the deck before. The crank has 3K on it, everything else lines up, it turns smooth. Am I mis-remembering? Could this crank have a shorter stroke somehow? It's got a coarser thread for the pulley bolt, I'm assuming it's from a newer model engine than the one I had. The only major changes I've made are new pistons, the rods were honed, and the block sleeved and re-bored. Pistons and crank are the only things "different". At TDC there's a good gap still. Compression will be gone unless I'm just not remembering right...that's assembly lube you see smeared all over. Sorry about my sucky camera.

Picture 276.jpg

Edited by CorollaNut68

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No sir...3K block, the new crank has 3K on it, same rods as before. I didn't think 3K's had different strokes. The only one I know with a shorter stroke is the K motor. A 3K crank in a K will set the pistons about that same distance above the deck. The only difference visible from the one I took out is the new crank has a coarse thread for the pulley bolt.

All I know is the crank was turned 20 under and the con rods were honed to make sure they were still round, no real meat taken off.

They ARE supposed to be flush with the deck aren't they? This looks like it would fit in my 1100 K block and be flush.

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Do the New pistons have the same pin height as the old ones?  How far below flush are they?

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They're inside the block right now but this is the third time I've ordered pistons, never had an issue before..they are roughly 3mm below deck. This is what I got ...

ITM ENGINE COMPONENTS RY6083 Info
us.gif C.R. 9:1-75mm (Size: 0.030" Oversize)
 
I don't have the paperwork on the crankshaft, my machine shop got it for me.
Edited by CorollaNut68
added info

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Sorry, meant piston compression height, not pin height

If you can turn engine, you can measure the stroke

Edited by tojo2

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Using a stick I put #1 at Bottom dead Center and put a scratch on the stick at deck height, turned it to TDC and put a scratch on the stick. Measured distance between the two and got 2.375 inches or 60.325 mm. That would mean 6 mm lost stroke. Spec says 66. Like I thought...That's real close to the 1100's 61 mm stroke. WTF? How does a 3K stamped crank get a K motor stroke?

I'm losing about 3 mm at the top and I guess about the same at bottom seeing as it goes in a circle.

Hell, I guess if all else fails I'll drag out the 1100 and see if the block is bore-able to match this crap I've got now, I've got to get it back on the road asap. But then the 1200 head will suck on the 1100 too probably, don't have a K head anymore. Sunny frickin beaches!

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Genuine part number for the bolt is 90105-12050 for a 3K.  The 2T has the same partnumber, as does the AE71 TE72, various hiaces, hilux's etc so should be easy enough to get one.

On Amayama they come up at $USD 2.96 each genuine plus post.

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I know this is a long shot, can you try and source a dish piston head to compensate??? Or mill the shite out of the head you have to get back to where the compression ratio should be?

 

cheers!

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There's nothing that will compensate for volume. A dish piston would maybe come up higher but at the same time would not go as low...so no change in air volume drawn in. You have to have something to compress first. If I'm only squeezing say a half cubic liter of air, I'm not going to get the same compression as if I were squeezing a full cubic liter in the same space.

With my crude measurements (my tape is in inches and I'm eyeballing it) I can see that the stroke on my old crank is (2 11/16ths) 66 mm from center to center of the rod journals. I haven't taken the other crank back out of the nearly assembled engine yet but I was only getting 60.3 mm measuring piston travel, which is even below the K engines 61 mm stroke. I'll get a better measurement tomorrow when I (sigh)...take it back apart.

I can maybe mill the shiiiite out of the 1200 head and put all this stuff in my K block if it's actually a 61 mm K crank. What makes no sense is for it to have 3K in the casting. There's no way for that centerline between the journals to be changed, Turning one 20 under doesn't change anything as long as you use 20 over bearings. If you ground out the rods too much the bearings wouldn't even fit and there's no way 6 mm of anything was taken out. I can find no spec for a 3K other than 66 mm (2.598 inches) stroke. Using the same rods I've always used...proper size bearings. My suspicion is growing stronger that it's an 1100 K crank in disguise.

Happy birthday to me.....

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Ok then. Talked with the shop today...he ordered an 1100 crank instead of the 1200. I kept telling him 3K1200, he says his book shows a 1077 cc as a 3K and a 1166 cc as a 3KC while I had him on the phone.  Still don't know why it would have 3K stamped in it

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