joeyk Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Hello everyone, my first post here. Lots of good threads here, informative and entertaining. Thanks for having me! I have a bunch of cars, but i really want to talk about the ke35 hardtop ive recently purchased This car is a gorgeous little thing Running orig 3k drive train, with minor mods (extractors, side pipe) Car has been set up for comp with half cage, seats and harnesses, oil surge protect, electric fans, electric fuel pump, adjustable front suspension, rear stripped & floors stripped. No rust, no dings, never an accident. (not bragging i swear) Blank canvass Also incredibly its recently road registered and will be again Vsoon with just the side pipe to change (for about an hour for inspection till it goes straight back out the side again) sooooooo... For the collective brains trust out there i have a few questions as I'm new to the performance Toyota world. 1. What are people getting powerwise out of a 1.2L 3k? (streetable) 2. CONVERSION, 4-AGE or 2TG? (I know - age old question..) Car will be used for street and hiilclimb, club days, maybe some track stuff, maybe even a little rally work, i plan to keep it road registered so I'm a little unsure of how deep I'm planning to go but lets start with drivetrain. Maybe i stay standard and keep a relatively unmolested (slow) fun toy OR 4-AGE - 2TG conversion. Ok lets roll.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banjo Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Hi Joey, Welcome aboard ! OK. Others on here will need a few more details, before providing suggestions on what you could/couldn't ; should/shouldn't do. I presume it has a manual gearbox ? Is it a 4 or 5 speed ? Is the "adjustable front suspension" referring to coil-overs on the original struts ? Has anything been done already to upgrade the brakes ? How much have you budgeted to spent on your little beauty ? (Just love those KE35s) Had a KE55 coupe for years, but it went to "cancer heaven". As a very minimum, with minimal mods & costs, I'd suggest looking at replacing the 3K with a 4K, unless you are competing in club classes for 1200cc & under. It always comes down to how far you want to go, & how much $$$ you can afford to spend. Another big consideration, is how much of the intended "conversion" work you can do yourself, & how much you will have to pay others to complete. What other vehicles do you have in your "bunch of cars" ? Cheers Banjo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeyk Posted May 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Hi Banjo Manual - 4 speed Is the "adjustable front suspension" referring to coil-overs on the original struts ? Original struts Has anything been done already to upgrade the brakes ? Not yet How much have you budgeted to spent on your little beauty ? (Just love those KE35s) Had a KE55 coupe for years, but it went to "cancer heaven". would like to spend around 5k As a very minimum, with minimal mods & costs, I'd suggest looking at replacing the 3K with a 4K, unless you are competing in club classes for 1200cc & under. I would actually be keen to keep the 3k in it but i doubt i would find anyone in anything to compete against.. It always comes down to how far you want to go, & how much $$$ you can afford to spend. Another big consideration, is how much of the intended "conversion" work you can do yourself, & how much you will have to pay others to complete. Not much but i am meeting with a car builder soon What other vehicles do you have in your "bunch of cars" ? Well my bunch has dwindled, I currently have 78' ke35 hardtop 72' Hilux ute (1600cc) 79' Suzuki Carry van ST90 (800cc) 69' Mazda 1000f BONGO van (rear mounted 1000cc) VW UP! daily for good comfort traffic measure All pretty different recently sold a couple of beauties Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SloRolla Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 2 minutes ago, joeyk said: Hi Banjo Manual - 4 speed Is the "adjustable front suspension" referring to coil-overs on the original struts ? Original struts Has anything been done already to upgrade the brakes ? Not yet How much have you budgeted to spent on your little beauty ? (Just love those KE35s) Had a KE55 coupe for years, but it went to "cancer heaven". would like to spend around 5k As a very minimum, with minimal mods & costs, I'd suggest looking at replacing the 3K with a 4K, unless you are competing in club classes for 1200cc & under. I would actually be keen to keep the 3k in it but i doubt i would find anyone in anything to compete against.. It always comes down to how far you want to go, & how much $$$ you can afford to spend. Another big consideration, is how much of the intended "conversion" work you can do yourself, & how much you will have to pay others to complete. Not much but i am meeting with a car builder soon What other vehicles do you have in your "bunch of cars" ? Well my bunch has dwindled, I currently have 78' ke35 hardtop 72' Hilux ute (1600cc) 79' Suzuki Carry van ST90 (800cc) 69' Mazda 1000f BONGO van (rear mounted 1000cc) VW UP! daily for good comfort traffic measure All pretty different recently sold a couple of beauties With your 5k budget, I'd suggest making it handle and stop better before any engine mods. Coilover set up - depends how full out you want to go. but a full set up is around the $2k-$2.5k mark rear reset leafs - depends where you go and how you do it but around $300-$500 sway bars - anywhere from $10-$300 front brakes - new lines, calipers, pads and everything you need. around $600 New bush kit - $300 rear brakes - best way is shortening a different diff. but that can cost alot. Probs other stuff that i have forgotten but you get the idea 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeyk Posted May 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 Slorolla yes yes yes that all sounds perfectly logical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banjo Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 (edited) Hi Joey, Thanks for your answers & feedback. Before you go pouring money into your little KE35, a couple of other thoughts. The body is the basis for everything you will do to this car. If the body is not up to scratch, then you are putting good money after bad. Your pics indicate a pretty clean little car. What do you know about the history of the car, & from your close inspection ? Has it got any rust in it, or any signs of rust being cut out previously ? It the paintwork original, or has it been resprayed at some time previously ? If it's got lots of "bog" in it, then I'd give it the miss, for any sort of competition work. Cars in excess of 40 years old tend to get a bit "floppy" & unstiff. I've seen Rollas that age, doing a bit of "crabbing", when you follow them from behind. The pillarless coupes like yours are the worst. Your body relies heavily on the strength in the upper rear quarter panels, where there are multiple layers of metal, and they rust out in there, out of sight. If you take it to a good wheel alignment place, they'll be able to tell you how far out the back & front wheel alignments are offset. They can be jigged, & all the floor pan stitch welding, can be seam welded, which will usually pull them back in, & stiffen them up considerably. Jacking them up high on one corner & seeing how far the other side droops is usually an eye opener, & will give some indication of how "soft" the body rigidity is. There's a lot of inspections & tests you can do, pre spending money on it, that won't cost a lot, but could save you a heap down the track, if you discover "surprises" later on during the build. Cheers Banjo Edited May 12, 2017 by Banjo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coln72 Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 If you are going to compete in any form of Motorsport, find a club and read the club rules regarding modifications before lifting a spanner. No good spending big bucks and time building a car that does not fit any of the classes offered or puts you against wildly modified vehicles. For example, if I removed the door trims from my KE20, I would of had to compete in the specials class at the club I was involved in. in VIC, if you tan in the PRC class, all you could run was a 3k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7000rpm Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 (edited) The costs of any conversion add up considerably quickly. 2tgs have good torque and reasonable power, but are heavy for the front of a corolla chassis. 4ages are much more efficient and lighter, but again dollars to convert. I just built a 4k for the track that is still streetable. Using a 3k big port head, it makes 84hp at the wheels and holds power to 7200rpm. In hindsight, I should have built a 5k as the extra torque comes hassle free. For hillclimbs, you are going to want the low down torque. I would build a 5k or 7k. Just be mindful that the k series gearbox and diff might not like the torque of the 7k after a period of time, pending how you drive it. By the way nice setup car mate, looks like a good buy Edited May 13, 2017 by 7000rpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bruce Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 What are the specs of the cam you used in the 4K? And is that with a 32/36 Weber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7000rpm Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 244 degrees duration at .050" (288 advertised) .453" valve lift. nah, twin 45mm webers. 32/36 is too small for a track engine chasing power Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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