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Yep-

Write out a plan for what you eventually want to do to the whole car, then work out what you need..  T-series diff, LSD, T50 gearbox, driveshaft to suit, 4AGE motor, and stuff, and start looking for parts.  It will take a while to assemble everything you need.

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You can use a housing from a t18, or ae86, or early te71 which you might have access to in NZ.

Buy gears from wherever if needed, Techno toy tuning, weir, toyota etc,

LSD centres are available, I can highly recommend the trd 2 way, but be ready to compression lock it if you cant heel toe at all, or be ready to learn to heel and toe as its pretty easy to get the feel of with corolla pedals.

If thats a big ask, look for a 1.5 way, so it wont savagely lock in both accel and decel.

Most t series diff are small axle zenki type, with approx 24mm axles.  At some point around mid 85 Toyota swapped to a larger axle size and double row axle bearing in the ae86.  This is called late or kouki.  its faintly stronger and more reliable, and you need to make sure your lsd is compatible with the series of diff you use.  Some axles will need around 5mm lathed off them to fit into the lsds, some wont, it depends on the brand of lsd.

 

You can source lsds for t series toyota from cusco, trd, tomei, or maybe OS Giken.  As I say, the trd ones are excellent, I havent owned the others, but the two different trd 2 ways I owned were tops.

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I'm wanting dual caliper disc brakes on the rear so I'm wondering if it would be better to find a whole new rear axle for it with a lsd and (like what would be the difficulty in say like a ae86/corona axle swap into a ae70 be) swap that in I'm pre keen on finding a 5 speed supra gearbox to fit to the 4age for the strong 5 gears and coil overs front and rear with a drift suspension set up camber/toe/stinger control arms the whole 9 yards i and I'm wanting around 200+hp atw from the 4age the all being over the next 6 years while I do my apprenticeship. Always thought a 80s Toyota would be a great first car to learn and build up my experience so any suggestions/links to parts pages or things you've done to your own rollas would be greatly appreciated thanks guys.

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If your goals are 4age, then you wont need a more hd diff than a T unless you turbo it, and it would present a performance disadvantage to have a big heavy diff for the small low torque high revving 4age to drag around.  Id lean towards having a T diff gear set cryoed for strength as opposed to going bigger.

AE86 housing will fit and be an appropriate width.  They do have terrible disc brakes, if you want a low fuss handbrake that locks up use a t18 or early ae86 housing that had them.

Or you can start with a disc housing, upgrade to s13 or U13 rotors and go to double caliper brackets.

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6 hours ago, LittleRedSpirit said:

If your goals are 4age, then you wont need a more hd diff than a T unless you turbo it, and it would present a performance disadvantage to have a big heavy diff for the small low torque high revving 4age to drag around.  Id lean towards having a T diff gear set cryoed for strength as opposed to going bigger.

AE86 housing will fit and be an appropriate width.  They do have terrible disc brakes, if you want a low fuss handbrake that locks up use a t18 or early ae86 housing that had them.

Or you can start with a disc housing, upgrade to s13 or U13 rotors and go to double caliper brackets.

I would be going for a turbo with a 4age with worked internals. what would be the best 4age to source for the best performance gains for drift capibilities and then what diff would take that torque from a 5 speed supra gearbox with a aftermarket drive train? also would my stock axle be safe enough to put a lot of stress on going side ways and such? I would be looking for a after market big brake kit so looking into a rear axle might be better for the after market parts available. Thoughts? 

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That's a pretty serious project-

I think someone who had a hand in building Lloyd's car was on here, you might find the odd topic and be able to contact them to find out what they used.  The front bit was a Lexus 1UZ, but the rest might be interesting for you.

I'm with Littleredspirit in that you want the lightest gear that will just handle the power. Even replacing the 4K with a  4AGE upsets the light steering and handling a stock KE70 has.

Lloyd.jpg

 

 

Ah- here's some info for you.

 

Edited by altezzaclub
more info
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So from my research so far I'm thinking of custom fitting a another axle maybe from a ae86 or supra with a kaaz diff probably 1.5 way and dual caliper big brake kit possibly gtr r32 or wilwood still researching brakes. I'm wondering what the advantages of s13 front steering and suspension set up would be taking into account the 4age being in there but I may be keen on an sr20det swap later on in its life. 

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S13 gear doesnt work in ke70,  many have done it, none have liked it, there are issues you cannot correct.

Use larger Toyota bits form ra40 or xt130 to keep front end geometry correct.

R32 gtr brakes on the back of a corolla is a pointless exercise unless you are building a car for wtac, and you clearly haven't taken into account the wheel size you need to run for gtr brakes on a car designed for a small rolling diameter.

You should just buy an r34 gtr or gtst if you must have gear at such a high spec weight and ability, its all overkill for a corolla chassis.

200 hp woulndt kill a t series unless you have 200 plus NM of torque consistently, which you will have if you turbo, and wont have if you stay NA.  An na 4age is a pretty poor drift platform though.

People used to buy 4agze engines and toss the sc12 in favour of a gt28rs and push close to or just over 200kw with good supporting mods, but that's a shit idea as 4agze is out of production for 20 years now and they are all spent, so buy any 7 rib 4age engine and build it correctly with forged internals at about 8.5:1 and run 20psi and you wont lose.  You can boost a stock bigport as the comp. is reasonably low, but it will be a tired old motor and it will shit the bed quickly, and it has the weaker 3 rib block, and smaller big and small end bearings which is potentially a problem if you plan to run high boost.

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Also keep in mind mechanical sympathy will determine if you break stuff or not. Sr20det as a daily drive with road tyres a few squirts for fun, a borg warner diff will hold up for ages and people have. 

An sr20det witb 300mm wide drag slicks and a 6000rpm clutch dump? Youll break anything short of a 9". 

To build an sr20det powered ke70 properly you are looking at alot of money even if you can diy fabricate. And unless you spend the cash a 5k s13 will be better in everyway. 

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