KE55 Distibutor Cap

[Big G]

Hey Guys

So the Princess' 55 hardtop is in need of a new dizzy cap, rotor button and points. The current dizzy cap is a Bosch. My question is as follows coz the dizzy cap is a Bosch does that mean the dizzy itself is a Bosch and I have to use all Bosch replacement parts or is there a better product out there that will suit the application. I don't know if it makes any difference but the dizzy has 2 vacuum lines coz she is an auto. 

[Banjo]

Hi Graeme,

                  The dizzy aluminium body should have a little plate on it down on the side, with all the details, including which K series engine it made to be fitted to.

The Bosch dizzies are usually larger in dia. than the Denso ones.  Toyota used both brands at different times.   Do you know whether this dizzy is the original one fitted to this particular engine.  I presume it has points.  Post a picture of it, if you can.

Cheers Banjo

[Big G]

Hey Banjo

So I looked all over the dizzy for the name plate but without success. I did however see Bosch Made in Australia cast into the body. I do now recall that the denso dizzys were more compact. I tried to add a couple of pics but that failed a couple of times. And yes it does have points. So is that info of benefit or would having some pics be better.

[parrot]

Various aftermarket stuff is available, but the Bosch stuff is easy so no point hunting anything else down. 

[7000rpm]

Bosch dizzy caps are typically black and nippon the burnt orange colour

most spare parts shops will have aftermarket brands to fit either, fairly easy to get hold of

[Big G]

I worked out why I couldn't upload any pics last night...the Princess and her sister have sucked the last gasp of internet that I had. So its off to super cheap to get me some dizzy bits. I know I will probably have to order them. Thanks guys.

PS. When the Princess was at work yesterday some late twenties dude approached her and said if she ever wanted to sell the rolla he would be keen at 8k.

[Big G]

Hey Guys

So I picked up the dizzy cap rotor button points and leads this arvo. Knowing the Princess has the day off tomorrow I thought I will swap it all out. How hard can it be. The answer to that is not hard at all. Until i tried to start her up. She coughed and spluttered and backfiredthrough the carby. So I shut her down and started looking for my mistake. Aaah lead 2 and 3 swapped over. Quick switcharroo and hit the key again she started and idled so I jumped in and rolled her down the driveway out onto the street and ....no power...so back to the shed.Looking looking for my next mistake......points set using the thou value on the feeler gauge and not the mm.....newbie error....reset them and away we go. Now this is where it gets mental. I kicked her over and the timing went through the roof.....she revved her arse off. So out comes the timing light it was like 20 degrees....so wound it back to 8 ish and it started to idle like she had a square cam in her guts. So long story short to get it to run the idle is wound up a bit to stop her stalling when you put her in gear. When driving she goes hard but idling she is rough. So what the hell is going on. I am baffled. Any donations of advice are tax deductible.

[ke70dave]

You wanna set the ignition timing to ~10degrees BTDC with the vac line off at idle speed, then set the idle screw on the carby to make it idle good with the timing set already.

if you are having idle troubles but it goes alright then you prolly have a vac leak i reckon. 

Where abouts are you located? maybe one of the rollaclub brains can drop in.

 

 

[Big G]

I just couldn t think of the relationship between advancing the dizzy and carby and there it is... the vacuum line. I will give that a crack this arvo. Fingers crossed that will fix my issue.  I will surely be back if it doesnt. Buccan is on the southside  halfway to the GC.

[altezzaclub]

You should replace the condenser when you do the points, because if it fails then things are very hard to diagnose.

Did you put a spot of grease on the cam tip for the point's rubbing block? Otherwise they wear shut faster.

It wouldn't hurt to check the points gap right on the cam tip, then re-check the timing. The 20deg of advance means either the points are too wide now or they were nearly shut before you changed them. I put a bit of white paint on the right mark of the pulley and timing cover to make timing easy. if you use the coil lead as a trigger it will flash for every cyl, which gives you an idea of how worn the dizzy is if the timing jumps around.

At least you've got it running so now its just a tuning trick.

[Big G]

Hey gurus

I just put the finishing touches to the disasterous events of yesterday. Set the timing to 10 degrees as suggested by dave. Started with the mixture screw at one and a half turns. Kicked her over and she was a bit better but still sounding sounding lumpy. So when in search of a vac leak put a few more cable ties on the last of the hoses that didnt have one when hey presto I discovered the hose from the PCV valve had come a drift from the carby base plate. Slipped it back on hit the key and away she went. Smooth as. I adjusted the idle back a little. Just as the Princess came on the scene to check on my progress. We rolled her out of the shed down the drive and gunned her as she hit the bitumen. She wound up hard. So for the time being I am in the Princess good books. So I will bask in my glory for as long as i can. I was a bit dissapointed when I opened the package of the points only to find that they no longer supply the little sachet of grease. Sign of the times i guess. On the upside i found one from the eighties in the bottom of my tool box. Bargin. Thanks for all the advice guys. 

[Big G]

I just had a brain wave could the PCV valve have been popped off the carby plate when she backfired yesterday. 

[ke70dave]

Looks like you have had a win!

As suggested by Altezza, replacing the condenser is recommended. I spent ages trying to fix my k motor when i first got it. I'm unsure exactly what the condensor does, but the car would idle perfectly but as soon gas you applied any load (ie moving the car at all) the ignition would break down, to the point i had to push the car off the road with it idling smoothly as it woudlnt move itself at all. 

I replaced everything and then finally I bought a $4 Condenser and it was fixed....I don't think condensers break very often, but when they do the engine hardly works at all. 

 

[Big G]

I was certainly relived when she was up and running. I will get a condenser next time I m at SCA. That way I know its all done. And peace will be restored to the kingdom.