Lukaswg

Oil pump failure

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hahah wow u went to some SERIOUS efforts to edit that photo :P
haahah

I havent got a cowling on my jeep, and the only overheating ive had with its marginally performing cooling system has been under power going up hill at speed with plenty of airflow..
Its never overheated in traffic, and trust me, traffic is a daily thing where i live, in fact the worst traffic on planet earth......
http://newsinfo.inquirer.net/815278/traffic-app-waze-names-cebu-as-worst-city-to-drive-in
 

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some of the more "advanced" fan shrouds have rubber flaps over holes in the shrouds or even plastic flaps on hinges. so when the car is not moving the fan pulls a small vacuum between the radiator and shroud and keeps the flaps closed to pull as much air through the radiator. but when you start moving and there is more air flow than the fan is pulling then the  flaps open. 

exhibit A:

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/3990/PageID/9619/Project-Viper-GTS-Part-5--Radiator-Fan-Wiring-Upgrade.aspx

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5%20A%20Stock%20Fan%20Flaps-XL.jpg

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Very, very clever !   I've just read the full article Dave, & it's a good read.  What your second pic of the shroud, (as the Americans call them), depicts, is the excellent fan impellor design, with a continuous edge, eliminating the fan blade tips, which create cavitation of the air at the tips/ends.  The way the continuous fan impellor edge & shroud overlap, is also very clever, & further enhances the lack of air cavitation.  The actual shape of the  seven blades is very efficient, almost "scooping" the air through. 

A bit frightening how much current the fan pulls, looking at the ratings of the relays & electrical components.

Cheers  Banjo

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The poor mans version is just cut some holes and put some rubber flaps on with screws only at the top so they can flap open at the bottom. In fact i swear ive seen some OEM fan shrouds with rubber flaps. 

I should probably look at removing the hydraulic fan on my bmw and putting in an electric fan, its so damn noisy all the time and definately eats horsepower.  I think once i get this megasquirt going will just use an output from it to drive the fan on and off :)

But working in lismore and working today is not helping that happen :(

 

 

 

 

 

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Well, I popped my radiator out at the weekend, between rain showers, & did a trial fit with the Echo radiator & thermofan. Wow, is the Echo aluminium radiator light without fan attached !

This might well be the easiest mod I've ever done to my Rolla, as can been seen from the following pics. It's almost like the Echo radiator was made for it.  Plenty of room.

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The original radiator, mounts on the sides.  The Echo radiator mounts top & bottom, with simple vibration isolation mounts/bushings.

Will order some bushings today, & then make up a couple of simple brackets to hold them.  There is even 4 off existing bolts at the lower mounting points, to secure the brackets.

Height wise, you can see it is perfect, & there is ample clearance under the bonnet.

There is plenty of room, down below, to fit a transfer pipe for radiator lower outlet, to Water pump inlet, which is on the opposite side. 

Cheers Banjo

 

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It appears no one makes aftermarket radiator mount bushes for the Toyota Echo, & you have to buy the genuine Toyota parts.

I ring Bursons, & they say they have no listing. However, they did offer to go through their stock of radiator & other rubber bushings, to see if any fitted, if I brought the radiator in.

I did this afternoon, but the only bushes they had that did fit, were suspension bushes, which were way to stiff.

So off to Toyota Spare Parts department, only to find, the lower ones are only ex stock in Sydney, & it will take 3 days to get some up.  However, the upper mounts were no go, with none in the country, with a minimum 3 weeks wait from Japan.

What was worse was the price. $ 20+ each for the lower ones & $ 15+ ea, for the upper ones.  That's $ 70 for 4 off small rubber bushes.

I'm driving off fuming, and thinking, they are only grommets (in shape), surely I can find a grommet that suits.  I was about to head to Bunnings, & then thought  . . . . .

"Clark Rubber".  Around the corner to Clark Rubber.  A whole row of little pigeon hole boxes, with every size grommet you can image.  I went back out, grabbed the radiator & took it in & tried them.  In 5 minutes, I had four that were perfect at total $ 9.00.  I was elated, so bought two sets.

You have to have a win every now & then.

Cheers Banjo  

Edited by Banjo

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hahah i would never have thoguht of clark rubber.
i thought they sold pool noodles and mattresses haha

I'm starting to feel like I'm very lazy, u knwo what i wouldve done....Ziptied it

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I’ve finally finished the thermo-fan conversion, where I used a Toyota Echo aluminium radiator & fan assembly.  I wired it up with a relay, & a Tridon TSF106 thermo-Switch with a 90 Off / 95 On, switching points.

The results have been amazing.  It has changed the KE30 driving experience dramatically.  As others have noted, the first thing you notice is how quiet the car is.  I had no idea, the old plastic fan there continually thrashing at the air, created so much noise.

I also fitted a Hi Flow Tridon thermostat, P/N TT2040-180, which according to the specs, allows about 30% more flow, when fully open. It controls over the range of 82 – 87 deg C.

The modification was dead easy, & it was if the Echo radiator was made for the KE30.

The following pics give a good indication of how easy it was.  Believe it or not, I only drilled one hole in the body for the threaded rod for the radiator hold-down clamp.

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If anyone wants to do this mod to their Rolla, I’m only too happy to offer specific assistance, or more detailed pics of the mods.

Even the “plumbing was relatively easy.  I was able to use another KE30 lower radiator hose, & the existing upper Echo radiator hose, to connect to the radiator to the KE30.  Even the tube to take the radiator water to the water pump, was easily fashioned from a discarded S.S. vacuum cleaner tube/handle.

The Echo radiator fan motor draws about 7-8 amperes, & should be fused separately, directly from the battery.  The control relay should also be fused separately, & not supplied by the ignition switch, so that the fan can run on, after the engine has been switched off. I also added a 3 position (ON-OFF-ON) switch, so control of the thermostatic control of the fan could be overridden, either ON, or OFF.

An LED indicator next to the switch, indicates when the fan is on.  I also sent this signal to the data logger, measuring & recording various temperatures, to indicate when the fan is on.

The most amazing & surprisingly advantage of the mod, was the extra power that the engine displayed.  I had no idea, how much power, the engine driven fan, continually drags from the motor.

The Echo aluminium radiator, is so much more efficient in removing heat from the coolant, than the original KE30 unit.

Altezzaclub, has continually said that his thermo-fan, does come on much at all.  Mine did not come on at all, whilst driving.  Admittedly the temperature here are around 30 deg C at the moment, so I expect, that may change at higher ambient temperatures, and more city stop/start driving.

The graphs indicate that during an hour of driving, the fan only came on twice for a total of 90 seconds.

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The first fan operation, was where I stopped to let my daughter out of the car, at the bus station, for a couple of minutes, when I did not turn off the engine. It ran for 30 seconds, then switched off, as soon as the car started moving.   The second fan operation, was when I got home, & parked the car.  I got out, locked the car, & walked away, only to hear the fan start up, about 1 minute after the car stopped.  I hung around, to see how long it over ran.  In 60 seconds it shut down.

I will continue to monitor its performance & make some small tweeks.  I still have to replumb the rear head return line to the top of the radiator, under the thermostat, instead of the water pump inlet.

Although rear & front of head coolant temps are within about 3 deg C of each other, I think, this can be made even closer, by fitting a head gasket with no “block to head”, coolant holes blocked, & by decreasing the flow out through the front of the head, which will increase flow to the rear.

I’ll take my KE30 for a good long country run in the next few weeks, & it will be interesting, to  see what difference it makes to fuel consumption, as well the above mentioned benefits.

P.S.  I was a bit concerned that anyone doing this mod, might also have to upgrade their alternator, if it was the original Rolla 35-40A one.  I wasn’t personally worried, as I upgraded to an 85A alternator a couple of years ago, which is also a fantastic mod with benefits.

However, as the radiatior electric fan rarely comes on, so this really isn’t an issue.

I also had on my list, to design & fit a fan run on, cut out timer, so that the fan cannot accidentally run continually, & flatten the battery. I probably still will, but it is really not going to be an operational issue.

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo
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Very nice job. Amazing how quiet it is hey.

When i pulled the fan off my old 4k it was incredible now quiet it was without the fan. it just ticked away at traffic lights. instead of WHWHHUUURRRRRR friggen hurricane sound out of a 1.3L.

I should do the same as you describe to my bmw (which i think ive menteiond twice in this thread?) if for no other reason that having so much more room for activities in the engine bay. 

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Hi Dave,

Quote

 if for no other reason that having so much more room for activities in the engine bay. 

 Yep !  The same thought came to me.  Lots of room in there now.  Altezzaclub said it was a pity about the overflow bottle, incorporated into the Echo radiator fan, when I first proposed it. I had considered cutting it out, but in the end, decided to use it instead of the very large KE30 Corolla one.  As you can see, there is lots of room down behind the RHS headlight, to fit all sorts of goodies.

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Cheers Banjo

 

Edited by Banjo

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Here is the wiring diagram, if anyone wants to wire up a thermo-fan & a thermo-switch to their Rolla.

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I know a thermo-switch is quite capable of switching the radiator fan motor directly, but I like to use a 30A auto relay, so that the thermo-switch contacts don't arc, with the inductive switching current of the fan motor.

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The 3 position switch is not really necessary, & could be dispensed with.  I put it in there, for three reasons.

1.  So as I experiment with the coolant system whilst I drive, I can simply turn the fan on of off, allowing me to force the coolant temperature up or down.

2.  Bypassing the thermo-switch allows you to start the fan early, if you know you are going to be putting a heavy load on the Rolla engine, like doing a hard run up to the Toowoomba or Cunninghams gap hills.

3.  If you ever have to do a water crossing, it's nice to have the option to turn the fan OFF completely.  The last thing you want, is the fan acting like a boat propellor, & covering your engine bay in water.  

Cheers Banjo

 

Edited by Banjo
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Hey Banjo

Great job. What was the total outlay from go to whoa?

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Hi Graeme,

                   Haven't really added it up, as wiring, relays, connectors, fuses & switches, nuts & bolts, are things I usually have lying around the shed.

Radiator & fan complete with top & bottom hoses  $ 35.00 on Gumtree. (bargain)

Radiator mounts.  Used grommets from Clark Rubber initially, but managed to pick up the genuine Echo radiator rubber mounts from Amayama in Japan, for just under $ 40.00.  Like half the price Toyota Australia were asking.

Thermoswitch TSF-106  $ $ 46.00 on ebay.

Hi Flow Thermostat  $ 27.00 on ebay or SCA.

30A relay.  $ 5.00 on ebay

3 Way Switch  $ 4.95 at Jaycar.

That's about $ 118.00, according to my calculator.   Final price really depends on how much you have to pay for the radiator & fan from a wreckers or elsewhere.

Cheers Banjo

Edited by Banjo

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