MrTougéTka Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 Alright guys, I've set points to roughly .40mm gap, plug gap to 0.08mm. I've attempted a re time , adjusted mix/idle screws accordingly. Ive almost got it perfect but the idle sounds a tad lumpy still? Would retarding or advancing the timing improve it? Just don't want to fiddle with it again and mess up the idle lmao. I showed my dads mate(qualified mechanic for 8 years) before I did all the above and he mentioned the float level in the carb was rather high, so we adjusted it. But the idle was still rough as guts. Could be a fuelling issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
altezzaclub Posted November 10, 2017 Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 Now we're down to 'what sort of lumpy'? A misfire in an otherwise smooth idle?? A constantly up and down like hot cams do? Did the mechanic have any ideas? Too much advance will make it rougher than too much retard, but these are pretty forgiving motors and its probably not that far out. You could try knocking a few degrees of advance off. How does it drive?? Perky and keen from low down? Too much retard makes it sluggish, too much advance makes it difficult to get moving initially. How many turns out is the idle mixture screw?? These problems are usually solved by adding 4AGE.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTougéTka Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 7 minutes ago, altezzaclub said: Now we're down to 'what sort of lumpy'? A misfire in an otherwise smooth idle?? A constantly up and down like hot cams do? Did the mechanic have any ideas? Too much advance will make it rougher than too much retard, but these are pretty forgiving motors and its probably not that far out. You could try knocking a few degrees of advance off. How does it drive?? Perky and keen from low down? Too much retard makes it sluggish, too much advance makes it difficult to get moving initially. How many turns out is the idle mixture screw?? These problems are usually solved by adding 4AGE.. It would idle flat and smooth then suddenly rise up in rpm, then back to smooth... it was fluctuating. Took it for a fang and it didn't sound like a raspy 4k should, it broke up a bit towards the higher rpm range. Then I came up to the intersection around from my house and it just bogged down. At a crawl it would hesitate a bit when I went on/off throttle. Almost like I looked like I couldn't bloody drive ! Lmao I did what you said pretty accurate I hope, haven't used timing light yet. I just set the dizzy until the points were about to open then rardy rardy raaa... tightened it up etc. The hand marked timing marks on the gilmores is throwing me off a tad I think, its not accurate enough to get perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTougéTka Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 I screwed the mixture screw right in and back 1 n half turns for a start. Then after that at least another 2-3 complete turns to the left maybe? I was trying to do it by ear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTougéTka Posted November 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 Dizzy governor part doesn't quite line up with cyl 1 at TDC, is this causing the problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTougéTka Posted November 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 Plus it doesn't start up without me blippin the gas, pretty sure I adjusted the points correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebuilder86 Posted November 11, 2017 Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 blipping the gas is required on tehse old things, just to give it something to fire. i give it 2 quick pumps so the accelerator pump puts 2 big nice juicy squirts into the manifold, then fire it up. if u don't do that ur wasting valuable time heating up the starter for too long. u said initially it was idling find when warmed up, but almost stalling when cold. That sais to me u have dirt in the idle circuit in the carb, or have a slight vacuum leak. how do i know this? because when warmed up, a vacuum leak causes the idle circuit to run a bit lean, but the fuel that does get in atomises well because the manifold is hot and rpms increase simply because theres more air.. when cold, a vacuum leak causes the rpms to drop because the extra fuel required isnt being pulled in. Even with the choke on, it will hesitate. If this magically happened after an oil change, id be suspicious of the PCV valve or its hose to the manifold, or perhaps u knocked a vacuum advance tube off the carb or dizzy? does it have an EGR valve? check the hoses to that too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebuilder86 Posted November 11, 2017 Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 (edited) but it is also blaring at me that u touched the fuel pump then issues started. perhaps a good temporary way to check the fuel pump, is to park on a very steep hill overnight, or jack up the back of the car as high as you can overnight... Then the next day start her up and see if the gravity acting on the fuel head height has any impact. if so, chase up a new fuel pump. See my avatar pic for other ways to get fuel to the engine.! Edited November 11, 2017 by rebuilder86 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTougéTka Posted November 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 13 hours ago, rebuilder86 said: but it is also blaring at me that u touched the fuel pump then issues started. perhaps a good temporary way to check the fuel pump, is to park on a very steep hill overnight, or jack up the back of the car as high as you can overnight... Then the next day start her up and see if the gravity acting on the fuel head height has any impact. if so, chase up a new fuel pump. See my avatar pic for other ways to get fuel to the engine.! I'm getting my dads mate to check it over today, I'll mention to him what you've said to me! Cheers heaps for the help guys, really appreciate it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebuilder86 Posted November 11, 2017 Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 i gotta feeling ur dads mate will be more help than us. being there in the flesh is much easier to work it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTougéTka Posted November 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2017 3 hours ago, rebuilder86 said: i gotta feeling ur dads mate will be more help than us. being there in the flesh is much easier to work it out. Nah nah you've helped just as much mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTougéTka Posted November 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2017 Alright guys. I've almost resolved this! My dads mate did a retune and time to my little 4k bugeye and it pulls way better now! The over fueling issue is still there, quite hard to start and keep idling some cold mornings. But once shes warmed up its mint. Now my question is.... would a full rebuild of the carb fix this possibly? Because although it runs fine now, it still hiccups and has flat spots when you accelerate.... I've noticed the valve tap gets quite loud and it bogs/splutters when you dump the throttle. So I tend ro feather it on slowly and let it gain more speed before I add more gas. Could be detonating from too much gas maybe? It also overruns sometimes when you shut off the ignition and dies rolling up to an intersection. What would cause my carb to be dumping too much fuel! Ugh! P.s I've ordered a carb kit for it, so if this doesn't fix it I'm just gonna go 40mm sidedraughts lmao.. Any stickies or links for carb disassembly would be great also please! Many thanks, jayden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTougéTka Posted November 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2017 Bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingsforwheels Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 I'm assuming the carb on your kp60 would be the same as on a 4k ke55? If so I'll post a picture of the gregory's manual I used to kit my carb. There's also a video running through rebuilding an aisan carb--haven't watched it myself but others have recommended it: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebuilder86 Posted November 17, 2017 Report Share Posted November 17, 2017 ive been tempted to make a video of the disassembly of the carb and explanation of each part as it is commonly requested, and i would ahve committed murder for someone to give me one when i needed it. but my upload bandwidth limits me, it would take 3 days to upload a 10 minute video, and it takes a good 10 minutes to disassemble it completely, not to mention id have to do the cliche youtube commentary.... /american acccent YEAH HIGH GUYS TODAY WERE GOING OT DISASSEMBLE THIS TOYOTA CARB, THIS IS MY CARB, YOURS MIGHT BE A LITTLE DIFFERENT lol Perhaps ill do a photo diary? Ill do it tomorrow! My fuel bowl is dirty from a shity fuel hose so its time i rip it out anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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