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I'm New Here - KE20 2 Door


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Hey there,

I've recently got my first KE20.

This forum seems like it'd be a great source of knowledge, but it seems kinda dead? Probably due to social media and the fact you can't upload photos?!?

Anyone still here????

I already have a lot of questions, so I hope someone still hangs around here!

 - Can you buy the inner wheel arch plate that bolts in at the rear of the front wheel well (if that makes sense)? Or is it easier to fabricate a new one?

- My rollla has a replacement dash which is too narrow and doesn't fit correctly? Shitty aftermarket part and they're all like that or should I find a new one?

- Any good links to how to tune WEBBER 40's?

- Anyone added a remote (servo) brake booster? The stock anchors are pretty average

- WHERE TO BUY REAR SPOILER? Anyone found a nice TOM's Performance one or anything? I have one which has been very poorly installed by previous owner

- Any good screw/bolt kits to buy?

- Places to check for rust? Window sills, foot wells, and spare tyre hole are all pretty clean? Any other spot that rollas rust out I should check?

- Are they too early for VIN numbers? Can only find engine/model/chassis numbers.

Thanks in advance!



Edited by JamesKE20
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Hi James, greetings from Costa Rica! From my experience:

- Yes, is easier to fabricate a new metal wheel arc than buying one, it isn't that difficult. Unless of course there is a scrapyard near your location with any KE2x over there, but I believe is most likely to find gold in your home garden!

- Are you refering to the upper soft vinyl part of the dash? Time to time, you can buy an OEM part on eBay, but be ready to pay the price (but with 40+ years of service, it is reasonable)


- Is your engine a Toyota K series? 3k (1200), 5k (1500)? Or a T series? Is posible to tune a Weber 40 for this engines, but is easier do it with a set of Weber DGV 32/36 (good torque, increase hp with good MPG). Now, if you want power with reability, always is better to put a modern engine, like a 4AG (140+ hp)...but you need to make new engine mounts, new gearbox (T50), a good differential, and if possible updated suspension, and of course, brakes. 

- I installed a Toyota Hilux brake master with servo, but had to make an adapter plate of 3/8" steel, with holes for both the firewall and the brake master base. Also, I fabricated a new longer pin from the pedal arm to reach the master.

- On eBay, you can buy front and rear fiberglass spoilers based in TRD ones, here are the links



- Other places to check for rust: front fender's low anchorage points with the main body, lower door's rocker panels, the lower radiator frame, the weld seam between the inner rear wheel arches and the main body, and the airbox floor (for me, the airbox is the part above the firewall where the plastic air intakes are, and the external air is draw into the cabin). This last one is especially important, because with over 40 years, and no corrosion protection in this zone, the water can found it's way to the cabin, soaking the floor mats and leaving that moisture smell I hate so much :(

Hope this can help you, and welcome to the KE2x and TE2x owners club!!!


José Garro, Costa Rica




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On 11/25/2017 at 2:21 AM, jfgarro said:

Hi James, greetings from Costa Rica!

Thanks for the reply!

My vehicle is: 1974 Corolla KE20 2 door Coupe

Engine: 3K 1.2L (EDIT: it's actually got a 4K in it!)

Gearbox/Trans: 5 speed (I think its a T50)

Carbs: 2 x Webber 40 DCOE 151

New exhaust and extractors

New "minilite" style rims with Potenza RE003's

A bad paint job

The previous owner told me (but I can't confirm) that it has a hot cam, new valves and pistons.

Edited by JamesKE20
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Hi James

welcome to the forum.  There is a great deal of experience and enthusiasm on here, and the forum is still pretty active despite the drift to faceplant. Other than some pretty dubious info given out on the FB sites, the other great advantage of the forum is that you can easily search for info, the vast majority of which has been asked before.  Can't do that on FB.  Also have a good look at the rides forum for some inspiration.  It's actually quite easy to load photos by the way.

The inner wheel arch plate has long been unavailable, and second hand ones are rarely usable.  But not to hard to fabricate a replacement.  Rust is common in the rear pockets, bottom of front guard (due t those plates) and the front and rear sills.  Also under the rear quarter windows.  Really after nearly 50 years, they can rust anywhere.  Well worth taking out the seats and carpets and having a good look.  

VIN numbers didn't exist when these were built, so you rely on the body number.  Virtually all after market parts are pretty poor quality, and the dash pads are no exception.  OEM can still be got with a bit of hunting, but expect to be paying around $300.  

It's not hard to retrofit a booster with twin circuit master cylinder.  It's been discussed often on the forum. A booster doesn't improve braking performance, just how hard you need to push the pedal.  Won't actually stop any better.

Spoilers I can't help with, but they were never available when new.  Anything available is a generally a Bodge job and needs to be screwed to the body.  Not really a great idea.

Webers are a topic of their own and a lot depends on the condition of the carb/s themselves.  Then it's about balancing and tuning, and don't forget the general condition and tune of the engine.

Edited by parrot
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Those cars are really grateful to all the TLC you can give them. So the money spended this way, is a good investment! I divided my project in many steps over the years: step 1, rebuild all the suspension and brakes, plus electrical work here and there, a new exhaust system, replace external old parts with OEM ones (turning lights, plastic trim, rear lights, bumpers) and wheels plus tires. It has been like this for about 5 years now...I really hope to start next year the step 2: bodywork! Mine is a summer car: in rainy season, there is water inside the cabin because all of the rust holes plus 40+ years old rubber :(   So my goal will be disassembly it all, and restore the bodywork to his former glory! Plus, reinforcements in strategic points for adding rigidity. Step 3: Paint work....step 4 interior. And the final step: new engine! The K series engine is a great little engine, and with the right parts, can give many smiles per gallon...but I'm worried about future parts availability. So my plan is putting a modern engine (4ag series always be my Toyota favorite engine, and with Webers, the sound is just addictive), and drive it another 40 years! Keep motoring!

And for the grand finale, a family pic: The red one is a KE26 station wagon with only 30k miles! It was stored for about 20 years, when the original owner died. A couple of years in legal procedures, and at last I can enjoy it! Only the wheels aren't stock, but the 3k engine and 4 speed manual box were fixed to top condition. And my plan is keep it this way, forever and ever!

20141202_171131_Richtone(HDR) (2).jpg

Edited by jfgarro
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LOVELY looking cars, a great pair!

Webers DCOEs are easy to tune. Once you have it running happily you need to decide if you have the right jets, not too rich or too lean through the rev range.

If you're happy with the jetting then its only a matter of balancing the two units and the four idle volumes.  That's the old 'plastic tube in the ear' system or a flow-meter to make sure each throat idles at the same flow.  Adjust the two throats of each carb to get each pair the same, then adjust the interconnecting link to get both carbs the same.

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Weber Performance sell a great book by John Passini called "Weber Carburettors Tuning Tips and Techniques"

I thoroughly recommend it. I've read it cover to cover three times now and I'm still picking things up.

DIY will cost more than a few hundreds though. For the same money you could possibly pay someone to set them up.

One bonus for you though is that if they are new and stock jetted 151 model DCOEs in new/good condition, then by my estimate they're just about set up perfectly for a 1200-1300cc engine  


Edited by Mechanical Sympathy
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