Big G Posted December 22, 2017 Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 I agree that you can swap out a clutch without machining the flywheel with no dramas. I used to do 2 a day at the import shop. But today if you don't machine the flywheel you void the warranty on the clutch kit. And they ask for proof of machining when you make a claim. It happenend to a work mate of mine recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingsforwheels Posted December 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 (edited) Thanks for you help guys--I don;t think there is any chance of me borrowing a trans jack before tomorrow, but Jeremy's comments have me a bit worried... Have others had experience changing a clutch on ramps with a couple of guys and/or a trolley jack to support the gearbox? Thinking of a flat piece of plywood or similar on top of the jack? Thanks for putting up with me, total newbie! Edited December 22, 2017 by Wingsforwheels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SloRolla Posted December 22, 2017 Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 20 minutes ago, Wingsforwheels said: Thanks for you help guys--I don;t think there is any chance of me borrowing a trans jack before tomorrow, but Jeremy's comments have me a bit worried... Have others had experience changing a clutch on ramps with a couple of guys and/or a trolley jack to support the gearbox? Thinking of a flat piece of plywood or similar on top of the jack? Thanks for putting up with me, total newbie! Wait, there's another way to do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big G Posted December 22, 2017 Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 In the days before work place health and safety I used to jack the car up on the passanger side undo all the gearbox bolts on that side....drop the jack...do the same to the drivers side...drop the tail shaft at the diff....take the gear shifter out....put the floor jack under the gearboxfor support.....jack the passanger side up again....raise the floor jack up to suite....slide the gearbox backwards enough to get at the clutch... swap it out ...do the reverse to put it back together and away you go a couple of hours and not a drop of oil drained or spilt. Now I did say pre WHS... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingsforwheels Posted December 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 2 minutes ago, SloRolla said: Wait, there's another way to do it? Most people on the interweb at least talk about using a transmission jack, which looks a wider hydraulic jack with more supports for the box than my standard trolley has Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingsforwheels Posted December 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 1 minute ago, Big G said: In the days before work place health and safety I used to jack the car up on the passanger side undo all the gearbox bolts on that side....drop the jack...do the same to the drivers side...drop the tail shaft at the diff....take the gear shifter out....put the floor jack under the gearboxfor support.....jack the passanger side up again....raise the floor jack up to suite....slide the gearbox backwards enough to get at the clutch... swap it out ...do the reverse to put it back together and away you go a couple of hours and not a drop of oil drained or spilt. Now I did say pre WHS... Your confidence is contagious Graeme! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebuilder86 Posted December 22, 2017 Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 actually that is a fair point, if its severely slipping, it probably needs a scuff at least. Maybe just get in there with some silicon carbide and rough it up a bit haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big G Posted December 22, 2017 Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 You can do it in even less time if you use an air wrench and rattle gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebuilder86 Posted December 22, 2017 Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 (edited) ok wings, if u have assistance, it may be possible, if not just for the mental support, that always helps. U'll need rope, trolley jack, and a good smooth ground to work on. After youve got he new clutch in, make sure its aligned perfectly, no visual checks, it has to be aligned physically. If you can't get an aligner, the bog standard super shit impact screwdriver happens to fit perfectly through the splines of every clutch ive ever done, and alligns it perfectly with the spigot bearing. The one that looks like this only, it works perfect. haha Then when u go to put it in, ull have to have the car raised up a fair bit, and have the trany chained or strapped to the jack, and just get the spline roughly lined up. Your assistant must be ready with an upper tranny bolt in their hand. Now have the assistant take all the weight from the front of the gearbox (via the rope) while they are standing or kneeling on the engine with the front of the gearboxes weight around their body. and get them to visually lift up the front until its in line and give you the word PUSH when it looks like its about to go in. all u should be doing her is takign the weight of the rear and concentrating on pushing. Screw that man, just get the jack. Edited December 22, 2017 by rebuilder86 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banjo Posted December 22, 2017 Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 Hi Jasper, Gearbox removal in your Rolla is fairly easy, & accomplished with very few tools, but there are a couple of prerequisites, I suggest you do. 1. Before you do anything, lift the bonnet, & take off one end of the top radiator hose. 2. Also crack the two (2) off 17mm bolts at the top of the bell housing from inside the engine bay. 3. The most important thing is to get the car up as high as possible at both ends, on a concrete pad, and make sure it is super substantial & very safe. Cannot stress this enough. 4. Take the gear stick & boot out. Disconnect the speedo cable. 5. The rest is easy. I've done it many times without a gearbox jack. Lie on your back, parallel to the car, with your head towards the back of the car. Slide the gearbox off & sit the gearbox on your stomach, then lower to the ground beside you. 6. Reinstall the gearbox the same way. 7. The clutch driven plate can be realigned without a realignment tool. Assemble by sight but only just nip up the pressure plate bolts. Slide the gearbox on to align the driven/friction plate perfectly. Slide the gearbox off. Tighten the pressure plate retaining bolts evenly working from one side to the other. 8. Reinstall gearbox. 9. You biggest problem might be refilling the gearbox with oil, if you don't have a large oil siringe. P.S. A pressure can of super degreaser from SCA, and a bit of emery paper to rough up the flywheel & pressure plate surfaces should get you back to Melbourne. Good Luck ! Cheers Banjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebuilder86 Posted December 22, 2017 Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 is this gearbox super light or something. hehe banjo u just said 8. reinstall. thats the impossible bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big G Posted December 22, 2017 Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 Thats the other way i used to do it if someone else was using the floor jack ...if u can bench press 30kgs you can install a k gearbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banjo Posted December 22, 2017 Report Share Posted December 22, 2017 (edited) I've never used a gearbox jack ! Serious; & I'm average & definitely don't pump iron. Cheers Banjo. Edited December 23, 2017 by Banjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wingsforwheels Posted December 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 Thanks a lot guys, about halfway through now and have found that the return spring from the clutch arm is missing: is it likely this is causing the clutch to not fully engage? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banjo Posted December 23, 2017 Report Share Posted December 23, 2017 Hi Jasper, The return spring is on the outside of the gearbox & is purely there to return the clutch arm to a point where the throw-out bearing is not in touch with the pressure plate fingers. The only way that the clutch could be partial engaged, is if the clutch cable adjustment at the firewall, was such, that there was no freeplay at all in the clutch pedal at all. Highly unlikely, that is the cause of your slipping. Make sure the clutch cable inner moves freely, inside its sleeve. It is a good idea to remove the cable, hang it vertically, & feed oil down it's inside. Let us know how you fare. Cheers Banjo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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