Jump to content

Hard starting and pinging


MrTougéTka

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, rebuilder86 said:

yeh the manifold nuts on mine need to be re tightened about twice every year. hahah dodgy as right?
i was previously scared of stripping the female aluminium stud threads in the head so FOOT TIGHT is about where I would stop.
But then i kept finding the nuts loose. so now i even ignore the 21 foot pounds in the manual and rattle gun the shit out it with my bosch cordless 18v which apparently puts out 185 Nm of torque.
So lets just say , worst case, i put 100 nm into it, it still comes loose about twice a year.
Id say it has somethign to do with the thickness of the manifold gaskets. they have a lot of give.

How many ugga duggas? Lmao

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Members dont see this ad

for some reason my reply was deleted. if someone disagrees with what I say, please disagree, don't delete it.

backfiring on decel hey. i know all about that. i had to invent an electronic idle solenoid cutoff for deceleration to stop it on mine. basically, whats happening is fuel is being drawn in the idle (slow) jet but the throttle plate is closed so it cannot get any air so it doesnt ignite in the combustion chamber. it waits till it gets out into the exhaust manifold where it ignites from the little bit of air available in there. if its really loud, there may be a good supply of fresh air in the exhaust manifold, indicating an air leak, usually at the flange to downpipe gasket. (this would also go hand in hand with the previous suggestion that the ping was actually just exhaust leak)

u cannot eliminate the popping on overrun without cutting fuel. other slightly later models had these fuel cut systems built in.

further, altezza, mine happens with timing litteraly anwywhere from std to advanced off the chart. however its possible that timing is having an impact on the size of the backfire.

since perfectting mine with a vacuum and rpm controlled set of switches, i managed to bring consumption down from a very dismal 14-15 l/100ks to a simply dismal 11-12l/100ks. but ive recently figure my engine is clapped out and completely wrong in terms of compression ratio so id imagine it would give even better results for someone with decent engine. it has no effect on power, just stops wasting fuel through the slow jet on deceleration, not to mention improves safety and engine braking significantly

 

Edited by rebuilder86
Link to comment
Share on other sites

if u simply google the issue, the reaults u get are all incorrect, i will put my life on it. 

when u let off the throttle, the vacuum advance will advance the timing significantly, taking timing practically out of the equation. 

the other simply wrong information scattered across the net is that a lean pilot circuit will "CAUSE" the popping. This can

none of the information on the net is relevant to this motor or this carb.

here is an explanation of the later years solution to the problem.

https://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280047f86

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, altezzaclub said:

It needs more advance.  Retarded timing will cause the backfire on decell, and also make it gutless.  That's why the pinking vanished.

Just carefully turn the dizzy anticlockwise a few mm and see what that does. You need it somewhere between where it was and where it is!

Bloody hell, I'm still learnding *winkface*

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've forgotten the details Jeremy, but they manufacturers had to fit the fuel shutoff valve to overcome another problem they had introduced beforehand, the timing system they used to meet the emission standards of the day.  This was all KE70-time and afterwards, with vacuum lines running everywhere until they had injection and ECUs that controlled timing and mixture.

Worn valves used to get blamed for backfires, the mixture escaping into the manifold as it compressed and it ignited when the valve opened properly. Cars were very dirty in the 1970s and earlier.

"It needs to be perfected before  doing anything  else"  Haha..  This is a 4K remember!  With POINTS!  Set it today and its gone tomorrow..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not if the points are  adjusted  and installed properly. I ran points for years and never had an issue. Clean thw points with alcohol, Adjust the gap properly, set the damm timing  with a light and you will get 10,000km at least without touching the points. 

 

Edited by ke70dave
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 23/01/2018 at 2:57 PM, ke70dave said:

Not if the points are  adjusted  and installed properly. I ran points for years and never had an issue. Clean thw points with alcohol, Adjust the gap properly, set the damm timing  with a light and you will get 10,000km at least without touching the points. 

 

Alright, so i got the car running to a smooth enough idle,  but the timing mark says its pushing 20-30degrees! 

Took it for a drive and it pulled quite nicely, but the revs would drop right down to almost stalling when coming to a stop,  then peak up again once station in neutral 

I think the battery is getting tired too, every time i go to start thr car once its been sitting for a while it cranks slow and clunks until it fires up, also need some sort of high octane boost to get it going (carby cleaners etc) initially before start up

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...