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20R thoughts?


79gooser

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Hi all, I know I've been here before digging for info on a 22r in my KE30 and I was informed that it may not be the best engine conversion I can do. I eventually got the gar together with the stock 3k and it has been my daily since, but I digress. My little 3k started sounding like a diesel the other day, and I damn near cried. That said I have been looking into motor conversions again, and I have been offered an 81 rwd pickup with a running 20r, trans, and diff. What are your thoughts on this motor, and would it be right for my car. I know they to put them in the Celicas and Coronas, so that's what gave me the idea to stuff it's heart into my rolla. Thanks in advance for any advice/info!

-Goose

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What's actually wrong with the 3k?

Just cause you can get an engine is not a good enough reason to install it. Have you considered the mods required to for a 20r? Custom engine mounts, gbox mounts and tailshaft at a minimum. Also it is way too old and truck like to be any kind of fun in a ke30.

Realty is you should put a 5k in it:)

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I heard a rattling from piston 1, then when I got home I pulled the head of to see cylinders 1 and 2 full of coolant. As for a 5k, I've not been able to locate one, but it is a great idea. I only thought of the 20r because they were in the Celicas and it might be a fun custom job. There's a lotta engine swapped Corollas, I've yet to see a 20r in one though. Also my diff is no longer useable, and the 20r comes with a trans and functioning diff.

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Yeah, why not..?   At your stage the condition of the engine is more important than anything else, a rebuild of any of them would cost more than the conversion, be it 3K or 4K or 20R or one of the 3Y motors.  So make sure it has good compression & didn't burn oil, or rethink it all again.

Dave's right about the custom mounts and mods, but if you can do them yourself you will end up with a fine, reliable car.  Steve had a pair of RT80 Coronas with the 12R engines and we sorted them out and drove them 1000km to Sydney & back. The 20R in a KE30 will pull a lower diff ratio than the ute will have, so you will have it over-revving for what it is doing all the time. It will probably be a 4.3 or 4.1, and you could easily haul a 3.9 or 3.7 in a ittle car, especially with small wheels.

Also, its pretty heavy gear for a KE30, so the shocks will need to be good to control that diff banging around in the back and the extra weight in the nose.

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Good to know about the suspension, mine is shot anyhow so I'll be replacing that. I'm still looking into what sort of rpm range the 20r can pull, not that it necessarily matters, but I would like it to be at least a little peppier than the 3k given all the work I'm going to do. I'm also curious as to if the 20r was different for trucks than it was for the Celicas, and what I should expect in that area. Also, being young and new to Toyotas, is the gearing in the rear end a relatively simple job, or is it something that would be better left alone?

Edited by 79gooser
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20R

The two-valve SOHC 2.2 L (2189 cc) 20R was produced from 1975 through 1980. Cylinder bore was 88.4 mm (3.48 in) and stroke was 88.9 mm (3.5 in). Aluminum alloy heads were used.

Initial output was 96 hp (72 kW) at 4800 rpm (90 hp in California) and 120 lb·ft (162 N·m) at 2,800 rpm. Power was down slightly from 1978 through 1979 at 95 hp (71 kW) at 4800 rpm and 122 lb·ft (165 N·m) at 2400 rpm. The final version, from 1979 through 1980, was down again at 90 hp (67 kW) at 4800 rpm (still at 95 hp in Canada) and 122 lb·ft (165 N·m) at 2400 rpm.

Applications:

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The eight-valve overhead valve 1.2 L (1,166 cc) 3K was produced from 1969 through 1977. Cylinder bore was 75 mm (2.95 in) and stroke was 66 mm (2.6 in).

The 1969 through 1975 3K-B was a twin-carb version. The California-spec 3K-C (1977–1979) and 3K-H were other available versions.

Applications
Specifications
Code PS (kW) at rpm kgm (Nm) (lb.ft) at rpm compression Years Comments
3K 68 50 6000 9.5 93 69 3800 9.0  
55 40             (DIN)
3K-B 77 57 6600 9.6 94 69 4600 10.0   Twin carburettors, high octane
64 47 6200 9.0 88 65 4000   (DIN)
3K-BR 74 54 6600 9.5 93 69 4600 9.0   As 3K-B but for regular octane
3K-C 59 43 58
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So 3K, about 60bhp & 90lb.ft of torque.  20R about 90bhp & 120lb.ft of torque. Both at 1200rpm or more lower. 

So a lot more grunt and lower rpm, if you cruise a 3K at 3800 to do 100kph, then 2800 would do for the 20R. The 5speed would be great, and 14" rims, then a diff ratio down under 4.0.   The RA40 Celicas here have a 3.9 diff.

You can still buy new crown wheels & pinion gears, although a wrecker would be much cheaper. You'd need a diff shop to install it into the diff & set it up if its a BorgWarner, the T-series is a self-contained package you can do yourself.

 

Check this-

http://rsmotorsport.com.au/files/Identifying_Toyota_Hilux.pdf

Edited by altezzaclub
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The studs are just pressed into the hub, so you put a wheel nut on a stud until the thread is just below the top and smack it with a hammer to beat it back out. Then you can try whatever rims you're going to use on the axle hub to see if they will fit at the center. Then you'll have to drill and tap the hub to fit the 4-stud pattern, and at that stage you might decide to run 5-stud wheels.


Of course it is just as hard to drill the front hubs with 5 new holes...   and they should be a splined hole for the wheels studs, so maybe its easier to find a Celica 4-stud diff, or axles at least if they will fit the Hilux diff.  I use a Celica T-series, as does Steve and also the rally car.

https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65709-how-to-fit-a-celica-diff-to-a-ke70/

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