1995Craig

Security system install

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Hi all,

Just looking for some suggestions \ idea's , maybe some help later. Story goes one of my kids bought me a cheap Ebay [ chinese] car alarm for christmas for my old 95  Corolla Seca and I thought I'd try installing it.

Looking for suggestions as to where to connect

1: the indicator flash wire = +ve feed  [ somewhere on hazards maybe? ]

 2: the door switch wires  1x -ve and \ or 1x +ve  and which is our system?

3: ignition fed +ve 

4: do you reckon install the siren or just use the car horn it has a -ve feed for horn relay output ?

5: the open \ close wires [ I do have central locking via key ]

hopefully all inside engine bay as this is where I have placed the brain module

Do you fella's reckon put in the shock sensor or just go with the doors and pin switch for bonnet?

Also do you reckon the led light would survive the weather if I mount it say in the grill or wiper scuttle??

Where's a good spot to feed wires into the cabin if needed please?

any suggestions\ discussion \ feedback welcome

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Hi Craig,

                Welcome aboard !  I've seen these Chinese kits, on ebay for under $ 50.00.  I presume it comes with a wiring diagram, that in in the manual.

Does it look a bit like this ?

5a9210d72e744_Chinesealarmsystem.JPG.8034ed462776fdd843e0cfeeedfebbf1.JPG

Bit hard to comment or assist without the wiring/hook up diagram.

If you can scan it & post it, or display a link to where it can be viewed on-line, that would be very helpful.  

Don't want to give you advice, sight unseen, & accidentally blow your Christmas present up.

I would be inclined to hook it up on a table or bench first, with a 12Vdc supply or battery, & test it all, before installing it.

Much easier, than installing it, & then trying to trouble shoot, in the car.

Cheers Banjo

 

 

 

Edited by Banjo

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Hi Banjo,

I thought of that but didn't have time or opportunity last night. here they are I have 2 jpeg files and a PDF with both pages which is as close as the " manual" comes to instructions, the rest of it is just how to change settings and options for features of the system. I was just after some general hints \ tips cause I'm not really fussed about it. Would be nice if I can get some features Eg remote locking  working but no biggie if not. Son [ 26 yr old ] told me in January it was a joke gift he never expected me to install. Btw that's very similar to the one I have you've found.

manual_0001.thumb.jpg.7862f2a952db2cc260febf9c72865b20.jpgmanual_0002.thumb.jpg.5b5eab566ca369c2486bfaea1b0d9022.jpg

Regards Craig

 

Edited by 1995Craig

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Unfortunately with these types of things the only way is to get a multi meter and start poking around trying to work out how the Toyota system works  and then figure out how to implement the alarm into it. 

It looks like you only have one output for the blinkers. Most setups require 2 outputs, one to each blinker  (left and right). You can just connect it to the parkers though, same effect.

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Hi ke70dave 

Yep thought that may be the case with lots of it [ but trial and error can be fun ] thanks for the hint on the parkers sounds good.

Thanks Craig

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I struggle to follow the door negative and door positive

which one do we use on an older Toyota and where should it actually be connected?

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I put an alarm in the old ke70, and the door switches were all looped together and when you opened the door the spring grounded the wire to the body. So i'm pretty sure you connect it to door negative input. I've put a few alarms in over the years and i'm pretty sure most cars would be door negative. if you have 1 wire going to the door switches then it would be door negative, if you have two wires it might be positive or negative. I think i just connected the wire directly to one of the door switches in the ke70. 

The key to retrofitting alarms is the installation. Absolutely nothing worse than an alarm that plays up because of poor wiring connections. Immobilizers that dont work, at midnight, in the rain, when the wife is tired, and the baby is crying. Gawd could you think of anything worse.  

 

 

Edited by ke70dave

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That's how I was thinking ke70dave, I'm guessing some euro's have a door positive system with the body computers, luckily I'm the only driver of this old girl and I was gonna leave the immobilizer circuit out. If I want one I'll do an old school hidden cut out switch instead. Hiro Protagonist thanks I may hit you up later if I have any trouble but I was planning on going off the console switch for the central locking BTW how does that come out - just wriggle and lift maybe? - and dome light or door switch for intrusion circuit .

Regards Craig

 

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Sounds like you are onto it. My DIY installs have always just had, 

- Interface with central locking so you get remote central locking (main reason to install an alarm!). This is often a +12 signale for unlock on one wire, and a +12 signal for lock on another wire. looks like green and orange on your drawing. 
- Door intrusion, as discussed
- Bonnet intrusion (if you dont have a battery backup in your siren then someone could potentially disconnect your battery to disable the alarm)
- Boot lid - someone may be able to shoehorn it open? often there is a switch already for the boot light. 
- Vibration - often the vibration sensor is built into the control module - or its a separate little doovy that gets attached to the chassis somewhere - generally the steering column)
- Blinkers or Parkers - for flashers for visual alarm and also so you look badass when you lock and unlock in the coles carpark
- Siren - often has its own loom from the control box
- Ignition +12 - indication that someone has somehow got into the car  without setting off the door alarms and have also somehow got the ignition on. realistically the alarm should already be blaring if someone has gotten into the car after the alarm has been armed. 

The item that has always given me trouble is the vibration sensor. Loud cars would set it off, high wind, heavy rain, felt like anything would set the damn thing off to the point where I cranked the sensitivity to the maximum on most installs. Probably would only go off if hit by a truck.

Don't be that guy in the street who's alarm keeps going off when a butterfly lands on the car!

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Hi Craig,

              Sounds like you have it all under control. As I suggested, hook it up on the table or bench. 

Black wire to batt -ve & to Siren -ve

Red wire to Batt - +ve

Brown wire to Siren +ve

Then you can play around with the inputs to see which ones you want to use or not.

Having only one wire (White) for flasher lights is a bit of a bummer, if you'd rather flash LHS & RHS indicators alternatively.

You can flash all amber indicators together with this system, but it requires 2 off simple auto relays to make it happen.  If you need the circuit, give me a yell.

Good luck !

Cheers Banjo

 

Edited by Banjo

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ke70dave & Banjo thanks for the kind words & suggestions fella's. I'm just happy if I get the basics working but if I have any questions look out I'll keep you in mind - moral backup if nothing else -  I'm going out to work on it now always remembering K.I.S.S [ basic principle on most of my jobs haha ]

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5 hours ago, 1995Craig said:

 I was planning on going off the console switch for the central locking BTW how does that come out - just wriggle and lift maybe?

 

You might be able to pry it up with a trim removal tool but otherwise it's safer to take the back half of the centre console out (not hard, two screws on the side and two bolts inside the box) and press the clips in from underneath

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Thanks Hiro Protagonist, I got lucky and found 2 old radio removal tools that were just right to slide down front & rear which popped the clips and it almost jumped into my hand. So far working great.  Selected units in place: remote central lock via alarm arm,  flash of parkers when arming \ disarming, bonnet intrusion switch mounted near rubber bonnet stop & works fine, blue LED mounted in grill of wiper scuttle [ looks cool at night ]. Just the door switch wiring to do now so that's on tomorrow hopefully.

Regards Craig 

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So just finished the install and everything tests out okay [ in the garage ] so now for the real world tests and see how it holds up in a week or so after our rough roads and some on time in the carpark's etc. ke70dave turns out the hatch switch activates the cabin light so it's on the circuit I tapped [ pax door switch wire ] for the door intrusion wire so bonus one less connection :-)  also I left out the ignition switched connection as unless I want to reprogram functions  as i'm sure I won't miss that, can always put in later if need be.

Wish me luck

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